POINTS IN HOME DRESS-MAKING.

New Zealand Mail, 3 December 1896, Page 67

POINTS IN HOME DRESS-MAKING.

[By Frou-Frou.]

In these days of paper patterns it is easy for anyone, who understands sewing, to cut and make a dress, more especially for one whose form is of average proportions ; but, if you have a waist pattern that fits perfectly, it is, of course, wiser to use that, even though you follow the purchased pattern in other respects. If you do not have a good bodice pattern, and live where you cannot have one cut to fit you, the next best thing is to cut one from some old bodice that fits satisfactorily. Rip the seams, being very careful not to stretch the pieces, iron them, place each one on new cambric, pin it into place, then unthread your sewing machine, and run the pieces through, following the outlines of the old seam, so as to know where to stitch the new lining. This work can be done with a tracing wheel, but the goods will be less liable to slip out of place if done on the machine. By cutting a paper pattern at the same time, it may be run through with the lining, saving considerable work.

Now, place linings upon dress goods, pinning them into place very carefully ; then baste them with No 50 thread, taking a long stitch on the lining side, and a short one on the right side. When basted, cut them out. Gut through the centre of each dart to within one inch of the top, double together, and baste firmly, being careful to have the small stitches come exactly together. When basted, the three basting threads should all be together. Care must be used in basting not to full the upper side. Do nob hold the work over the finger, but pin it to something, and be sure to fasten the ends well. Do not turn the front hems, but run a line of basting thread where they are to turn back.

When fitting, put the bodice on right side out, bring the two fronts together at the waist line, which you must always trace, pin securely, and examine it critically. Should it stick out at the back of the neck, try taking up a little on the shoulder ; if it still sticks out, the back seam must be taken in. All, or nearly all, the fitting must be done on the shoulder seams, under-arm seams, and the back seam. Never touch the darts, or the curving seams, unless you have used a very ill fitting pattern. Take off the bodice, make the alterations outlined, and try it on again right side out. It is slow work fitting a bodice to one’s self, but it can be done, as many know from experience. Do not begrudge the work spent in basting and fitting, for it is a case whore the end will always, justify the means. Never “ guess " that it will be all right, and so stitch up the seams, but be very sure —very, very sure —before going to the machine, that everything is just as you want it. Be sure to cut out the arm’s eye until comfortable. If the bodice wrinkles across

the shoulders in front, see if it does not extend out on the arm a little too far. This is a fault to be found with the work of many good dressmakers. When you have fitted the bodice to suit you, it will not be wasted time to rip it apart and cut a paper pattern from it. If there is a difference in the sides, as there often is, cut a pattern of each, and mark it carefully. It will save much time in fitting when the next new dress is made. If you are not sure about the fit of the neck, baste in a double bias strip of lining for a collar. If it wrinkles in front, it is too high, and must be cut out a little, but de not cut more than a narrow point at a time, for it is easy to get it too low. If this simulated collar sticks out in front, turn the front hems of the bodice a little deeper. If your bodice is to button up the front, work the buttonholes on the left sides, placing one at the waist line. Fold this part back to the line of basting, on the other side below the waist line. Above, it is first folded over, then straightened out so as to form a fold on which to sew the buttons. If . hooks and eyes are used, the bottom part of the eyes are placed out of sight under his fold, the edge that is brought forward preventing gaping. All seams must be notched a little at the waist line, and also a little above and below that line, if the wearer is stout. Press all seams flat. The darts and rounding seams can easily be pressed over a large bottle covered with cloth. Where covered bones are used, they are either put on with a cross stitch or sewed along either edge on the machine, the hand work being preferable. Sleeves and collar come last. Select a desirable sleeve pattern, cut the sleeve, baste it, and slip it on, after having laid the pleats according to directions. The sleeve should be so put on that the inner seam will not show when the arm is half bent. If it fits nicely, make it, try it on again, pin it in place, then baste it, and stitch it on the machine.

A plain bodice pattern may be used for any sort of fancy bodice, and if it fits well, will be found entirely satisfactory.

Ladies in the country requiring reliable Knitting Yarns, Art Needlework or Novelties for Birthday or Wedding Fresents, will find Pringle’s, Wellington, thoroughly satisfactory. Direct imports, keen buying, thorough know'fdge all com bine in the customers’ favour,