LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1263, 14 May 1896, Page 15

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

Prom Our Special Correspondent. Reoext stkeet, April 1-

The giant aigrette holds the millinery situation at the present moment, although it is severely elbowed by chinchilla fur and mirror volvet. In all the leading Regent and Bond street millinery ateliers there is scarcely a. smart toque, hat or bonnet to bo discovered without chinchilla, velvet mii'oir, or ono of the large osprey aigrettes, as an important part of its attractions. In some cases, a combination of all three is brought to bear on ono shape, which case, applies to the model sketched in Fig. 1. Tho crown of this extremely pretty toque is covered with folds and loops of dark grey mirror velvet, which also undulates with chinchilla fur (about two and a half to three inches wide) round the brim or edge; a paste buckle holding it on the right side; and on the left towards the back, springs the aigrette, very full, about six times as thick, in fact, as hitherto used, and about seven inches in height. Some of tho ospreys are parti-coloured, black and white, &c, the divisions going across. A special protest was offered some time back

on behalf of the unfortunate birds supplying ospreys, but the manufacturers assured the humane champions of the feathered victims that the demand had created a substitute so closely imitating the original articlo as to almost entirely supersede it. It is much to lie hoped this statement (with the present osprey craze in view) was not an exaggeration. There, are, of course, charming exceptions, particularly in the case of some of tho new toques ; but taken en masse, a study of the smart milliner's window of to-day is calculated to excite tho most phlegmatic mind. Harmony in colouring, fitness in form or material, all are conspicuous by their absence; some half of the models displayed being designed apparently for tho gay and irresponsible heroines of Comic Opera, and no woman of refinement or taste could possibly air such atrocities on her head for ordinary wear. Veils aro becoming highly important now, not only from fashion's point of view (that has been the case for a long time), but from that momentous consideration—tho complexion. The most celestial toque, hat, or bonnet ever created becomes a vanity and vexation of spirit when east winds and frost have imparted an a/.ure hue to cheeks and lip-, and rosy tinge to the no.;o. The gossamer transparencies we call veils now would not app ;uv to bo much

Tin- Nkw " Sac" Jacket. protection against the unkind elements, but, as a matter of fact, if slight, they aro sufficient to bo emphatically worth consideration for this purpose. There is an extraordinary variety of veilings now pro-

duced, and, with caro, it is possible to everyone to procure one at once protective without beintj too thick, and becoming and improving, as well as softening down the little asperities referred to should they arise after long exposure to frost or wind. Iho latest novelty in veiling has bright green chenille spots. This must bo worn with discretion.

A late autumn novelty has been introduced amongst the exclusive ladies' tailors in the form of the short "sac" jacket. This is a descendant of the sac coat worn some three or four years ago, which so disturbed the general equanimity when it first appeared, owing to its odd and ungainly appearance. There is little difference in the up-to-date sac and its ancestor. It i 3 shorter and is quite plain at tho back, where its ancient relative had a sort of Watteau pleat from the collar, and that is all.

In Fig. 2 I show a model of the short sac jacket in fawn cloth. It is perfectly straight from all points of view, is cut to just below tho hips, and has a double row of large Mothor-o'-Pearl buttons, with sable collar and cuffs.

The medheval collar is resuming its sway for outdoor wear this winter; tho high "roll," what tho French call erase, and high square, with corners turned down, all being used both in fur and velvet or plush. These are a great comfort to look forward to ; and all of you who aro subject to cold and neuralgia will rojoico in the prospect of warmth and cozinoss round neck and ears without looking demode. _ Those picturesque collars require " dressing up to," and should, to look well, bo worn with suitable coat and headgear.

In Fig. I) the new cape is introduced to my readers, which is cut with open throat and rovers, crossing and fastening on tho left side with a large paste buckle, and then falling in ends to near tho bottom of the skirt. Tho model is built of sealskin, and has big collar rovers of chinchilla. It could, of course, be carried out in seal plush also, with rovers of any other suitable fur tho homo mantlo-maker might possess, or prefer. Shopkeepers seem suffering severely from the gonoral attack of Trilby-mania. A strange assortment of Trilby hats, blouses, shoes, and innumerable other items—without the vaguest connection with Mr Du Maimer's much-boomed heroine—is now meeting our gazo at every turn. ROSELLE.