LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1260, 23 April 1896, Page 16

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

From Our Special Correspondent. Regent street, Alarcli 21. 1 have a few more autumn garments for you, though, indeed, they may well bo worn —in your climato--f:>r early winter days. AYo had to abandon our autumn clothes, and rush back into summer

raiment, as September proved so exceptionally warm. It is within the probabilities, however, even with your climate and year of vagaries, that raw evenings and cool days will come ultimately with the days of “ chill ” April arrived ; so you may as well continue the study ot autumn clothing, and find yourselves perfectly prepared when the weather at last demands it. Fig. 1 shows a velvet hat (nearly all tho autumn’s smartest hats are of velvet) with a novel crown. The brim is moderately

broad, and the crown starts from it as though for one of the “ beefeater ” genus; but, after the fulness spreading in soft folds

around, it is drawn in again to a flat oval top, thus forming a species of ruff or outstanding gauging round the flat plain roof of the crown. Encircling the base is a jet passementerie band, and tho only other trimming consists of black ostrich tips. The velvet in my model is a rich olive green, which harmonises delightfully with the jet and black feathers. In Fig. 2 an extremely pretty autumn bodice is illustrated. The gown is composed of smoke-coloured bouclc, the skirt perfectly plain. The bodice is fastened at tho back, and is cut out in picturesque) fashion in front over a velvet vest and collar of tho same shade, and trimmed with edgings of black fox fur and jet passementerie. The sleeve has a pretty shaped wrist, edged with fur and a band of tho jet s and two jet passementerie bands cncicle the waist. With this gown is sketched one of tho new shaped hats with a broad brim drooping at tho sides, and a small high crown ; the shape of black velvet. Hound tho crown passes a folded oriental ribbon (with edging of black velvet) fastened in front by a jet buckle, spreading in large loops across tho back, where they are supplemented by a group of black ostrich tips. For ceremonious occasions and afternoon calls we should once and for all set our fare against the wearing of plain, tailor-mado gowns. Nothing looks harder or more unappropriate in a drawing-room full of soft drapings and feminine nick-nacks than a demoiselle in thick boots and clothes turned out by a man tailor. For, remember that, liko in everything else, there is a certain tact and discrimination required in dress. I give the illustration of a charming visiting - frock in beigo-coloured taffetas pc Line with black satin stripes,

suitable for such functions. The plain skirt is cut very amply and very much in “ funnels,” a lining of rose-petal pink satin finding place throughout the whole jnpc, which is further stiffened by tho introduction of a knee-deep piece of French canvas inserted all round between the lining and tho outer material. Although this means of stiffening is perhaps heavier than the addition of horsehair, it is, anyhow, less expensive, now that tho tremendous demand for crinoline has sent up the price of the latter, dear at the best of times. But to proceed to the jacket bodice of our dress. It is pointed iu front, and half way round is provided with a short full basque revealing glimpses of a pink satin lining. Laid across tho waistcoat, all in one with tho remainder of tho corsage, is a soft fichu arrangement in pink chiffon, while the lapels on either side are faced with self-coloured beige silk and fiirtlimornamented with pretty frills of the lisse falling cn cascade. There is a jaunty bow of the ethereal material at tho neck, and, of course, tho designer has not forgotten tho inevitable paste buttons, which finish off a really distingue little frock. The delicately tinted glove, stitched with black, or the sable Suede lierring-boned with white, is still considered excellent form ; but common imitations have ruined tin* success of the dark kid glove ornamented with light stitchiugs. Boskllf,.