LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1249, 6 February 1896, Page 16

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

From, Our Own Correspondent. Regent Street, January 4th. A charming little French toque in the new jet and straw combination is the subject of my millinery note this week as shown in Fig. 1. It is extremely simple and very becoming. The trimming consists solely of bunches of chrysanthemum, fuchsia, &c., and velvet loops forming a species of aigrette on the front of the crown. In the model the straw mixed with the jet is black, the clusters of flowers and velvet bows dark heliotrope. Equally pretty the same design might be carried out in green straw and jet, green velvet, and pink cuckoo flowers. Our very old friend—who would appear to be immortal amongst matters millinery—the sailor hat, will still be worn this autumn. In every respect this year's version of this time-honoured shape is larger than last; the brim broader, crown deeper and larger in circumference, more altogether of the build of those worn by boating men. Some too, according to J some Paris models I have seen, will be : fully trimmed with ribbon, velvet, and flowers, especially roses.

Capes, though undoubtedly the out-door gaiments of the hour, will not completely monopolise the fashionable wear, and the jackets that have been prepared for those who feel equal to wrestling with the getting on and off (over sleeve 3 composed of a couple of yards of material) of a coat are nearly all tight fitting, with shorter basques than they have been of late cut with; and the most popular form of trimming is applique of velvet, cloth, satin, and silk, applied to the large Robespierre revers, collars and cuffs. Fawn appears to be the colour for these coats, as for an immense number of the model gowns and capes I have seen. In Fig. 2 we have an example of the jacket for this season's wear. It is of fawn box cloth, with collar, revers, and cuffs trimmed with dark green velvet, and self cloth applique, the buttons of smoked pearl.

There can be little doubt as to the far smarter appearance of the jacket, or coat, to the cape. Whether a woman has the loveliest or the ugliest figure, the cape brings one and all (which may be considered an advantage by the less well favoured in such respects) to a dowdy, indefinite level. The same applies to the enormous caricatures of sleeves in one or two respects, inasmuch that a woman of spare figure, with narrow shoulders, may gain a more important appearance by immense sleeves, shoulder capelettes, and mammoth collar and revers ; while a well proportioned symmetrical figure is wholly discounted aud spoilt by the same. Amongst the new autumn novelties are many special designs for dressing gowns.

It is rather difficult at the present time to draw a line between a glorified dressing gown and a tea gown, and define where one ends and the other begins, so elaborate and handsome are some of the former now being shown.

In Fig. 3 a stylish JRobc de Chambre is illustrated of strawberry coloured cashmere, drawn fully into the band collar in front, with a watteau back. A large_ square collar with deep lace and narrower insertion- y v\vhich also trims the falls over the shoulders back <vau( front. The full bishop sleeves have ruflles of the lsce, and bows of strawberry velvet ribbon, the same decorating the broad collar on the shoulders ; and the waist is finished by a band of the velvet, fastened by a rosette of the same. A dress for promenade or fete wear is made of grey-green crepon, with full bodice, and the sleeves are of old pink silk in large puffs to the elbow, to which the long gloves extend. A pattern of extremely deep pointed lace covers the shoulders in yoke form, its points extending to the waistline, one coming to the centre front, and above it two full ends of green crepon are taken up to the neck from the waist. Long pointed pieces of lace, bordered with narrow bands of white ribbon, are arranged as stripes on the skirt, ending with rosettes of silk, and being comfortably varied in length. Parasol of green silk, with white lace frill and old-pink bow on the handle. Of brown straw the toque is trimmed with loops of green ribbon set off with pink roses. Eoselle.