THE TRAVELLER.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1130, 27 October 1893, Page 10

THE TRAVELLER.

A TRIP ROUND THE SOUNDS. (BY JACK-POT.) (Concluded.) With much reluctance we said farewell to these kind people, and started for Nydia Bay, the head of the numerous arm* of the Sound. Here we anchored at 5 p.m, and after a clean up started off to pay our respects to Mr and Mrs Walker. Here we found another hearty welcome awaiting us. Mr Walker owns a large extent of country here, which has formerly been the site of an old sawmill. We went for a most enjoyable walk over this property. The General and 'Our Other One' disposed towards botanical studies, started off on their own account up some of the numerous gullies, their absence causiug us some alarm. However, they turned up later on with some good specimens, and with no further hurt than the sensation of having been 'out in the cold.' We returned to the ship at 10 o'clock, after spending a particularly enjoyable evening. At 6 o'clock on Monday we made full steam round for the head of the Kenepuru Sound, a run of about 20 miles. We had a good tide under us, and anchored about a mile off the head of the bay at 8 45. The rise and fall at this spot is very great, being, at spring tides, as much as 12 feet, causing the utmost caution to be required when anchoring. We were ashore here about three hours, and in the interval our steamer had had . to go down three miles off the shore, and then nearly got stuck. But to return, on anchoring we decided to go ashore at the nearest spot, and wa'k up to Mr George Harris'. The Commodore, 'Our Other One ' and I got into the boat and made for a small shelly beach about a mile off On approaching this we observed a bullock which apparently resented our intrusion upon his preserves, and as we drew near made hostile demonstrations. The situation was precarious. After some discussion it was resolved by a majority of 2 to 1 that the Commodore should land and argue it out in a friendly way with our cloven-footed friend. Here the absence of the General was felt very much. However, after some mild demur on the part of the Commodore, we at last persuaded him to land, and watched with feelings of pride his strategy and valour. Needless to say, the bullock retired utterly routed. The Commodore and 'Our Other One' then took the track, and I returned to the ship with the boat, going ashore directly afterwards, accompanied by Captain Harris and the General in Mr Blamire's boat. Here we found ourselves again on the site of another old sawmill, with all its machinery piled up on the wharf, rotting and rusting. There is a large flat of several hundred acres, owned partly by Mr Creech and partly by Mr G. Harris. The land is good, but the lower part is evidently in need of a change of stock. A great part of the surrounding country has not been opened up for sale as yet. When this is done, we were led to believe that there is a possibility of a township being cut up near the beach. Mr Blamire took us in. Here I think I must must draw a veil, merely stating that if any of my readers should go to the Sounds and should desire to see the beauty of all the beauties of this place, let them go and ask our General where that may be found ! He was fairly dumbfounded. We had not long had breakfast, but notwithstanding this he had to gain strength by drinking tea, &c., and then refresh himself by a bathe in a delightful stream. After leaving here, we walked up to Ma George Harris' and found mine host of the George Hotel, Picton, who has been 'slogging in' with a will. He

showed us a very fine lot of young cattle aud some good sheep. On leaving his place we all felt that if only one man in all the Sounds prospered, that man would be George Harris. Go and see him if ever you have an opportunity. You may rely upon a Hearty welcome, and if his cattle and sheep don't call forth any admiration from you, his children will—especially his twins. A long walk of three miles took us to the boat. . -

At noon we got under steam and started back down the Keneperu Sound, stopping, after a few miles, off Mr McMahon's house, where two of us landed, and after being shown over the farm buildings, were taken in by Mr aud Mrs McMahon to dinner. This property appears to be about the pick of the Sounds. Mr McMahon has resided on it for about 30 years, and has evidently exercised great discretion in his manner of working it. "■■'■■' <*

Leaving Mr McMahon, we passed on our port side a large promontory of land, through the neck of which a channel for small boats had been cut, so as to reduce the length of the journey from this part of the Sounds to Picton, and through the action of the water the channel '* has become reclaimed, and now requires cleaning out. ; '. Strange to say, the Sound settlers satisfy themselves by growling at the Government for not sending men to have this done, when two or three men could do it themselves in a day.. A short run of half an hour brought us to Mr Henderson's. We paid a call, and were cordially welcomed by Mrs and Miss Henderson. Don't lose a chance of calling here if you are in the Sounds. We did not see Mr Henderson, who was away at his son's sawmills. We were sorry for this,' but fared well at the hands of his wife and daughter, who, after providing us with afternoon refreshments, sent us away laden with flowers to decorate our Bhlp. The next stop was at BourkeV Bay, where Mr Mike Bourke boarded us. .It was nearly dark, and we had no time to go ashore, but always see Mr Bourke if you are near. He kapt us amused. He has been troubled by sheepstealers. r lt seems a strange place in which, to practice this art, but in many places we heard the same complaint. We recommend a vigilance committee. / r f : ,]'. ; Mr Bourke carries about three or four sheep to the acre—the majority of settlers appear to carry about that number. He had a great proportion of fat sheep, but said that, unfortunately, most of them were in the bush. After leaving here we steamed away at 4 30 for Beatrix Bay', where we lowered anchor at 8 30 for the night, receiving a visit from Mr Harvey turning in. At 9 a m. on Tuesday we were under; weigh for Richmond Bay again,' where we landed at 11.30, and went on shore. As a preliminary to dinner, we all went ferning in the bush, returning about halfpast twelve, when Captain and the Misses Harris entertained us right royally, and it was with feelings of genuine regret that we shook.hands with perhaps the veteran settler of the Sounds. We wish him and his health, prosperity aud peace for many years to come.; We left here at 1.40, and put in at Jackson Bay, Forsyth Island, at 2.45 for some wool. V'... ,

Mr Jackson is the sole resident of the whole island, and leads practically' the life of a hermit. Whilst in here we 'struck a patch'of rock cod, and soon had all hands at the lines, and in about half an hour the deck was one mass of fish. We all agreed chat the General was the most expert fisherman amongst us. It was a real treat to see him and Wilson endeavouring to land a young cod between thetn, and to see the smile of satisfaction on that same young cod's.faceas he slipped gently off the hook, out of their hands into his briny home. The General didn't seem to mind—at least, not much; ho just 'looked at' Wilson. The rest of us observed that about this time Wilson seemed to be wanted at the other end of the ship. '' At 4.15 we started for Picton, but finding ourselves steaming against a strong tide, decided to put into Akaloa Bay. A mutiny nearly took place on this decision being announced to the crew and the cook, and it was only by the exercise of the utmost strategy on the part of the Gener «1 and a liberal supply of grog from the Commodore that things were put right. Wo all felt m re than pleased wiih the a'titude taken during the trouble by our worthy skipper, his firmness and the decisive manner in which he went to the wheel himself will long be remembered by us all. . : :- ; ';•;;; An hour's run brought us close up to Mr Joe Redwood's wharf in the bay, and before the anchor was down Mr Joe Redwood was on board. That we were glad to see him there is no need to say-,; everyone is glad to see Mr Joe Redwood. We went ashore, and he took us alt round his place and showed us the improvements he is making, the solidity of which we could not but admire.. Mr Redwood is getting a big lot of bush down, and soon means to have a run carrying a large number of sheep. There are oysters in Akaloa Bay. . We Left them there, as time would not permit of us dredging. ,/! ' We were sorry, but the Rotorua had to be caught at Picton, and the Captain would not he answerable for what his. crew might do if their patience was tried too far. We squared Ike, abo Wilson (wonderful the amount of squaring that boy took), but the rest were not to be

got at, so off we went at 6.30. A lovely night, scarcely a breath of wind, not a ripple on the water, not a cloud in the •ky, and as light as day. We sat on deck and watched the land slip by. At , 7.40 we rounded Alligator Head and saw the last of the Pelorus Sounds, with all their beauties and kind hearted, hospitable inhabitants and their pretty homes.'

There is a great deal of uneasiness in the minds of the settlers as to the action of the Government in carrying out the

conditions of leases nuide many years ago under 'the Marlborough Waste Lands Boards, which gave lessees, after so many years, the right of purchase. Something more than a feeling exists that in three years' time, when these leases fall in, the right will be' denied. This is a matter.that should surely be settled at once, ss not only may it hinder transactions in land, but must and is proving a deterrent to cultivation, as holders decline to improve, feeling that probably all may be taken from them. That this state .of things should exist is to. be regretted, as there is evidently a strong desire all through to fell the bush and stock the, land. 'To check this general desire may be very harmful. The settlers are sanguine, and confident of the' ultimate' success of their various ventures. We wish them the completeness of their hopes, but they must not expect too much. The general idea is that the land will (carry 3to 4 sheep to the acre. If in three years' time it carries from 1$ lo 2 (without' reckoning what are in the bush) they will not have caiae to complain. ...^

Some, .little discontent was expressed to us .at the mail arrangements with

Wellington, A little united action would doubtless get this matter put right, and united action of a moat determined

character is of the utmost necessity in this matter as to ensure success. In such a locality good water transit arrangements must be had, the nature of the country practically prohibiting land carriage. There is another matter that was brought under our notice as one demanding attention, ani that is the total absence of anything in the shape of reliS'ous services. That kind-hearted lady, [rs Henderson, spoke very feelingly on this subject. A visiting clergyman or lay reader would be most heartily wel corned. :••."

We reached Picton at midnight,'thus ending one of the most enjoyable trips t ever went, and if my remarks should induce others to take it, I am confident they will come back with the same pleasant impressions of persons, places and things in the Pelorus as r V'■ m > - Jack-Po^