ECHOES FROM THE NORTH.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 878, 28 December 1888, Page 30

ECHOES FROM THE NORTH.

(FROM a correspondent.) That long narrow peninsula which forms the terminus of the Colony, with an isthmus extending from Aphira Bay to Avanui, audf rom thence to Gape Maria and. 2Torth Cape, is so little known to the generality of the people of the Colony that a short sketch of its general features, its resources, and tlio naturo of its soil can* net fail to prove interesting. There are few whohavenotlieard of the Seventy-mile Beacti which forms and bounds its western side.butfew can realise its vastness —a beach upon which the whole population of the Australian colonies could, disport without rubbing shoulders with one another. In a. long summer day the best horse the Colony can produce could not perform journey. What a glorious course for the bicycle! Seventy miles without a break; sand as firm as a wooden floor and as level as a bowliug-green, the rider could bound over the , course with the fleetneßS of a greyhound. Biding upon this splendid beach the traveller experiences an exhilarating feeling seldom felt anywhere else. No doubt the beholding of the huge billows rolling on the strand with their loud-sounding diapason contribute to enjoyment, realising vividly Byron’s over-memorable address — “ 801 l on thou dark and deep blue ocean, roll. Time writes no wrinkle on thy azure brow : Such as creation’s dawn beheld thou rollest now.” Rarefaction plays a curious and interesting part in the scene. Before us appear what seem to bo a company of horsemen, which, on near approach, prove to be {seagulls picking worms out of the s;md. blocks mistaken for large herds of cattle, prove to be a species of snipe, called by the Nativesqualra, a bird which frequents i« countless numbers the eastern and western shores in February, and leaves in April ; the flesh of which is considered by epicures the most delicious of all the edible birds found in the 'Colony. Other sights, such /is the seagull soaring with a ahelfish in its bill, letting it drop on the •wrecked log to procure its contents, and its efforts among the billows dipping for the fish team along the whole extent of the Seventy Mile Beach. Onward we rid® without a break, the shore bounded on the right by banks of the whitest sand. The first halting-place is Hukutari, J 8 miles from Aphira, where the traveller and his steed can drink of the pellucid water which issues from a dump of bush inland courses down Into the sea. There was Jmrp at ope period an accommodation-house, with

an orchard and green p'iddaicks, where tho traveller could obtain refreshments. Alas ! this oasis—its house and green fields are a desolation. Sand surrounds the premises, and covers the pasturage ; the trees, of the orchard embedded, the tops of tho pests and broken wire alone indicate where cultivation existed. The yearly encroachment of the sand from north to south is destined in the course of time to envelope the whole of the peninsula. There is one barrier, however, in close proximity—a conical mount, some 2000 ft high, surrounded by vegetation—somewhat notable,;for in its environs has beeu found by an enthusiastic naturalist a new fern before unknown to the nomenclature. Proceeding onward for seven miles we come to the next opening, where a fingerpost indicates that by pursuing a course westward we come to Waiopa. Crossing the sandy desert for seven miles we at length behold vegetation—plains covered with manuka scrub, rushes, and flax. Exhibition, a semi circular bay, comes in view, also Parengarenga Bay, covered wi.h patches of white sand, while we obtain a glimpse of North Cape and surrounding country. From the western side of the isthmus to within a few miles of Cape Maria there is a belt of sand from five to eight miles. In one place the sand belt approaches to within three miles of the eastern shore. The eastern portion consists of undulating plains, the soil of which is more or less sandy and covered with the everlustr ing clumps of bush intervening at long intervals. Numerous lakes exist, varying in length from a quarter to two miles, whose pellucid waters would prove splendid receptacles for trout if once stocked. LAND TOR SETTLEMENT. Although the greater portion of tho peninsula is covered with manuka scrub, there are other parts highly suitable for cultivation, fertile vales, where settlements could be formed if the land were sold at a low price. One groat disadI vantage, however, is that all the timber j for building purposes would have to be conveyed by sea from other parts. Notwithstanding, there is reason to believe '.that were portions of the territory open for sale by Government, it would bo speedily settled .upon. One great advantage is that the .whole of the peninsula is a vast gum field, producing the best quality of gum that goes to market ; consequently the settler coqld during the time his crops were panluring turn his attention to digging. During the last two years diggers earned from L2 to L 3 sterling a week, and from want of settling facilities, many betook themselves to the Australasian colonies, while others spent their earnings in cities, and fell into the ranks

of tho unemployed. If the land were surveyed into small allotments these complaints would be removod, and certainly no assistance would be required from Government, as is the case in the village settlements, for a man could never starve while ho could earn from 6s to 8s a day. To the industrious man this portion of the Colony offers superior inducements. The climate is uurivalled, aud all semi-tropical plants grow to perfection. The mulberry, vine, and orange grow well, and the hardier fruit trees, such as the apple, pear, and plum, yield abundant crops, while the gum tree and black wattle grow with marvellous rapidity. Cereals, such as maize and wheat, grow abundantly and tobacco luxuriantly. Vegetables, such as potatoesandkumaras, yield enormously. As no fro3t exists, three crops a year can be raised. Vegetation being unchecked, tho settler could sow and plant every month in tho year. On either side the shores abound with fish. Large hauls of tho large, delicious mullot can be caught with nets, and with rude appliances tho Natives manage to secure a number of whales during the season. WHALE FISHERY. At the North Cape whale-fishing is conducted with a certain amount of success. A few weeks ago two large whales had been brought ashore, while several have been lost. The products of these have been about five tuns. At Ahoro, in Exhibition Bay, there are three boats engaged with Maori crews, with European coxswains. Up to the present date four whales have been secured —two old and two young ones. Upon tho whole the craws are well pleased with the results. To the Natives all around a dead whale is considered a great treasure, great junks of it being carried on pack-horses a great way inland. At the cutting-up thore is a continuous feasting, whale 3teaks being most delicions to the Native palate ; dancing, card-playing, and sports arc largely indulged in during the time. A short time ago I came upon an assembly of Natives cutting up junks in preparation for a feast. Certainly its appearance was by no means repulsive ; fat, white as snow, and 7in thick, and I observed not a few smacking their lips in anticipation of tho delicacy in store. Large ovens were improvised and stones heated to redness. The junks were then laid upon the heated stone, mats, rushes and sand being placed on tho top. In little more than an hour the trumpet sounded —a bottle without the bottom —which promptly assembled a crowd. Dripping, the huge roasts were divided with knives, and down the throats went the sweet morsels It required no Worcester sauce to give it relish —coudimentum est fames optimum. To them the best sauce was the palatable juice which oozed and lubricatod the throat, the lumps descending wifchrlittle mastication. I asked-a- tall Maori whose acquaintance I had made how it tasted ? Rolling his eyes delightfully and smackiug his lips, he emitted the sound “ Kapi, kapi.” The full meaning of which was that the juicy roast beef of which the pakelia boasted so much was by no means comparable to roast whale. I asked a palceha Maori if he ate whale ? “Certainly,” he said; “ and I like it as well as the best roast beef.” No doubt it is nutritious, for it has a very fattening effect. Tho Natives going to the fishing lean and cadaverous, come back in a few weeks glossy and sleek. At certain timeß a large number of whales visit both the North Capo and Exhibition Bay. St. Clair.