How to make Orange Marmalade.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 860, 24 August 1888, Page 4

How to make Orange Marmalade.

If there is one preserve more recherche than another, it is Orange Marmalade ; and with reason, since no other has such varied qualities. Elegant in appearance, appetizing to a degree, marmalade has a distinct tonic value in its bitter principle which makes it most useful as an article of diet, particularly on the breakfast table, where indeed, any other preserves rarely find a place. The male members of the household generally scorn jam, but they thoroughly appreciate marmalade. Put it on your breakfast table and you will find that it receives a large amount of attention at their hands, and mouths, taking the place of the fresh fruit which theoretically should always be present, but practically is not. Notwithstanding its popularity, comparatively few women provide home-made marmalade. They buy it in tins, ‘Keiller’s Scotch,’ and think they have the perfection of preserves. But in the first place tin is decidedly objectionable, and in the second place, if it were ODly known what ingredients are included in the manufacture of so-called * pure marmalade,’ I doubt whether so much favour would be bestowed upon it. As a fact little of the fruit itself is used. The peel is shred, and the jelly is made from a variety of inferior fruits and vegetables. Adulteration is carried to such perfection in these days that it is impossible except by chemical analysis to detect it. Appearances were never more deceitful, colour, flavour, and consistence are so well imitated. I have heard a ghastly story of boat-loads of orange peels swept from London streets and taken to Scotland for conversion into the * genuine ’ article, and I believe there is some truth in it, horrid as it sounds. However, my desire is to invite housekeepers to make their own preserves. I know it is troublesome work, and from many a person have I heard the remark, ‘ Oh, it is suoh a bother, I would rather buy than make.’ Well, there are three reasons why the trouble should be taken. First, superiority in point of both flavour and wholesomeness ; second, economy in cost; and third, satisfaction and pride in producing a valuable addition to your household luxuries. Bought marmalade, is, as you know, the most expensive preserve ; when home-made it is the cheapest. You will scarcely credit that I have just made quantities at a cost of less than threepence per pound, and I propose to tell you how. There are several methods, and every cook has her special favourite, myself included. Just recently several recipes have been sent to me, all of which I have conscientiously carried out, with favourable results, so I will place them —the recipes, not the results—before you, presenting some important points in marmalade-making that must be considered whatever method is chosen. The fruit must be washed or wipod well with a damp cloth, and be free from specs ; and the peel must be thoroughly boiled before the addition of the sugar, or it will be hard. It is not absolutely necessary to use Seville oranges, but if you do the peels must be boiled in several waters or they will be too bitter.

Now for recipe No. 1, given by a resident of Dunedin, whose marmalade was exquisitely bright:—3 doz Seville oranges, 1 doz Bweet oranges, six lemons ; slioe them as thin as possible and pat into six quarts of cold water for 24 hours. Then boil until

quite clear. Put away for 12 hours, then add pound for pound of white sugar, and boil for an hour and twenty minutes. No 2, given by a Wellington friend, mukoa excellent lemon or orange marmalade :—To each pound of finoly cut peel add 1J pints of cold water, allow it to stand over night ; nxt day boil till the chips are tender. The following day add 21b of sugar to each pound of fruit and boil till transparent. Another recipe is for Madeira marmalade ; —The bitter Seville oranges must be sliced very thin and sliced altogether, keeping out the seeds only. To each pound of sliced fruit add three quarts of cold water, and let this stand twenty-four hours. Thou boil it until the rind is tender. Allow this to stand till next day. Then weigh it, and to every pound of boiled fruit add 1 Jib of lump sugar. Boil the whole till the syrup jellies and the rinds are quite transparent. This may take from half an hour to an hour ; it depends upon the oranges and the state of the fire. One or two lemons added are an Improvement. The quantity of water seems large, but it is all right; and the marmalade'is cheaper and better than any I have seen. Despite my friend’s assertion, I must say the quantity of water is far too large; no matter how long it is boiled, the marmalade will not jelly. I need hardly give you any more methods, though there is one which recommends the boiling of the whole oranges before cutting up. I found this extracted the flavour and juice, to the detriment of the preserve. It may be prejudice, and perhaps a natural one, but I prefer my own way of proceeding, and it is certain enough that my belongings prefer the finished results. I found, when entting up fruit whole, that the acid quickly took the edge off the knives and rendered the work very hard and tedious. Now for my plan : Seville oranges are not often' to be bad in Wellington, and are generally inferior samples. When I used to have them sent me from Sydney, I certainly preferred them. My favourite proportions are half sweet, quarter Seville, and quarter lemons. All sweet, however, makes a delicious marmalade, if thick, dark skins be chosen. After washing the oranges—say two dozen—score them in quarters, and take off the peel neatly, put into the preserving pan with cold water to cover. If bitter oranges are used this water, when it boils, must be poured off, and fresh put on, to be again changed. For sweet oianges, the water need not be changed; on the contrary, it must be kept for use later on. While the peels are boiling —they will take about two hours, some kinds take longer ; in any case they must cook till tender enough to be pierced with a straw—you can prepare the fruit by dividing into sections, and then tearing each section into fragments, carefully removing every pip. The peels when tender must be drained. Then place two or three pieces together, and with a sharp knife slice them as thin as possible ; it will not take half so long as if cut raw. Weigh both chips and fruit, and allow to each pound, one pound of white sugar, loaf or crystal, and one pint of the water the peels were boiled in. If lemons are mixed, use a little more sugar. Put all together and let it stand till next day, when boil till it jellies. It is impossible to tell the exact time, so much depends upon the fire and the rapidity of the evaporation. My time is usually an hour—certainly not less. Should there be no lemons, just before taking from the fire, mix in a teaspoonful of citric or tartaric acid, which will not. only give a slight acidity, but helps to brighten the jelly. Put away in .carefully covered pots. I find the glass preserving jars most useful. Not content with marmalade making, I often make candied peel, which is decidedly economical. Put the skins of either oranges or lemons into salt and water for three days> then boil in fresh water till soft enough to pieroe with the head of a pin. Drain them, and put by. Make sufficient syrup to cover your quantity, of one pound of sugar to each pint of water; put in the peels, and let it gently boil till transparent. Now drain the peels, add some more sugar to the syrup—say half a pound to the pint—replace the peels, and simmer till the sugar candies, when they must be lifted out singly, spread on a dish, dusted with castor or rolled sugar, and put in a cool oven to dry. Pack away in jars. Should you think the candying process too troublesome, the peel will be equally useful for cooking purposes if put in jars after being boiled in the sugar, with the syrup poured over.

Crystallised oranges are very pretty for children’s parties. Peel and quarter the fruit, make a syrup of one pound of sugar to one pint of water, let it boil till it is like candy round the edge of the pan, then dip in the oranges. Drain and dry in a warm place. Elise.