CHILDREN’S DRESS.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 766, 5 November 1886, Page 4

CHILDREN’S DRESS.

When the holidays come round, and the noise of pattering feet aud childish voices resound through the house, it is not, I fear, the experience of many mothers, as they hear their little ones ‘ at play,’ like that Longfellow ‘ The questions that perplex them vanish right away.’ On the contrary, the maternal mind is much perplexed with regard to many questions relating to the young people and their wauts and wishes. The subject of dress is an especially embarrasing one. What a trick those little boots and shoes have of wearing out, and the girls will outgrow their frock's. How soon too daughters begin to have decided opinions of their own as to what they will not wear, and how difficult it is to reconcile their wishes with the necessities of the case.

To help other mothers I am going to give my experience of the present fashions for children. It certainly diminishes difficulties to know what materials are worn, and how they are made up. Canvas has no rival, but it has many variety's. Blouclffi stripes have been introduced into it, and tiny flowers brocaded on it. Mousselines de laine in small patterns are particularly well suited to children, and zephyr cloths wash so well that it is fortunate they appear to be the favorite washing fabric of the season. Now as to the making. A navy-blue canvas is a good useful stuff, light, and capable of standing plenty of wear aud tear. I have seen one costume made with a plaited skirt, showing underneath what appeared to be a petticoat of the same, with red horizontal stripes. This has been applied to a vest, and also to the front of a long jacket in plain blue material, the collar and revers being of red velvet, and the sleeves of the stripe. The most striking novelty of the year in children's dresses is the new style of sleeve. This may be made either of a different pattern and material from the bodice, or the upper portion, like the bodice, comes to the elbow and the lower to the wrist; the latter matches the trimmings. As in the case of a boucffi striped canvas of string color, with a full red satin vest and a red satin puff to the sleeves from the elbow. However much we may originate our own grown-up fashions, the leading fashions in children’s costumes still come from Paris. I have seen several of these lately worthy of description. One, made in plain cream woollen stuff, had red satin stripes, which formed the full vest and

tunic cut in one. These stripes bad also been applied in another dress to the sleeves, yoke, and back drapery, the last arranged in a sort of butterfly bow with the cream woollen for the background. Another biscuit-colored frock had fine horizontal cords like the old-fashioned striped corded muslins, formerly used for petticoats ; the yoke and full petticoat were of material striped in the same tone with blue and brown. Biscuit is certainly the popular color luckily, for it does not show the dirt, a rare merit in young people’s dresses. A dark peacockblue, nearly allied to navy, and having white stripes, is a good useful shade. A frock for a child of ten was made as a long jacket and skirt, with no trimming save large repousstS buttons.

Washing frocks are a necessity, and a costly one too, for laundresses’ bills are a heavy item in household expenses; but, nolens volens, washing dresses must be had. There are some new ways of making them. I saw three blue zephyr cloths, each differently made and each worth describing. The first had a honeycombed yoke, the honeycombing carried down the front, from which came pauier draperies forming part and parcel of the bodice. These draperies were looped on to the hips, where they met a strip of honeycombing. The tops of the sleeves and a broad piece at the wrist above a plain cuff were also worked in the same way. A second had the yoke, cuffs, and collars richly embroidered in white cotton, the material forming a blouse over a plain full skirt; while a third had panels, yoke, and cuffs of white torchon lace, the straight edges sewn together to form strips. This would be a good way of using any lace you may happen to have by you. Red twill is made up with flounces of white work and wide sashes round the hips. Some of the red and white frocks have Bayadere stripes. These are used for the petticoat, vest, collar, and cuffs, intermixed with plain material. Ifor children of very tender years, deep capes are arranged in narrow plaits from the neck, with a bow of colored ribbon in front. Some are embroidered all over with open works wheels, whilst others have slits at intervals with ribbon run through. Biscuitcolored batiste, embroidered in white, with long red bows, is also in favor for little girls. A becoming frock of cream mousselme de laine, printed with a design of flowers, had a petticoat and vest of mousse colored velvet. It was made, as they nearly all are, with invisible fastenings. The full bodice was carried low down on to the hips, and the hooks and eyes placed on the left side, so that the fulness hid them. The material was also gathered at the back, and a knot of ribbon placed on the left shoulder. Cloaks for little girls are made in neutral-tinted woollens, with sling sleeves and velvet collars and cuffs. I have just seen some pretty patterns prepared for the daughters of the Duchess of Edinburgh to take with them abroad. Some were in the shape of coats, opening with silk reverson either side over narrow plaits, fastened at the waist with a strap and button. The plaits at the back opened to show panels of silk. There were one or two ulsters, with Newmarket backs, in brown cheviot cloth, and several close-fitting short basque jackets in bloucld cloth. A MOORISH SLAVE MARKETThere is situated in the Sous province of Morocco a pface called Sidi Hamea or Moussa, about seven days' journey south of Mogador, and here a great yearly fair is held, •whieh is called the Amco Ghur. August or September is the time usually selected, when traders congregate from different parts of the Empire, and the vast unexplored tracts which lie southwards, to barter slaves, ostrich feathers, gold-dust, and different kinds of gum, for Manchester goods, iron, tea, sugar, steel bars, cutlery, etc. The slaves are brought from the Western Soudan or from Timbuctoo, and, after being purchased, are forwarded in gangs to different towns in Morocco, chiefly Morocco city, Fez, ancl Minquinez, where slave markets are held. It is said that many of the newly-im-ported negroes die of nostalgia, but if they survive the first few months they generally adopt the Mohammedan religion, settle down into their new life, and become fairly happy. The number of slaves imported annually has been estimated at from 3000 to 5000, but 4000 may be considered as about the average. The ordinary price of a full grown male negro varies from £ls to £2O. Children are sold, according to their age, at from L 3 or £4 upwards. Good-looking female slaves often fetch far more than men, when they are purchased as concubines for their Moorish masters. An ad-valorem duty is levied by the Sultan on every slave imported, so if tlie average price be considered as £l2 per head, this would give an annual revenue of £4BOO on the traffic in human beings. A special commerce of a very revolting nature exists in negro bo}’s destined to become the future guardians of- Moorish harems, but the high price paid for the wretched lads, being three times that of an ordinary slave, makes the traffic in eunuchs too lucrative to be neglected by the slave dealer. The extent to which the practice is carried on may be judged from the fact that about two years and a-half ago a gang of fifty boys were taken up to Mequinez to become custodians of Moorish female virtue. The high price given for female slaves possessed of personal attractions has tended to induce a custom, which in some disti’icts is very prevalent, of fathers selling their _ own daughters born to them by slave concubines ; and not only this, but it has fostered to an appalling extent the crime of child-stealing, which is so common in Western Barbary. Thus it is not only the negro or mulatto who falls into the clutches of the slave dealer. Children of the free white inhabitants, without the slightest negro taint, are continually kidnapped, taken to some remote district, and sold as slaves. Though less frequent on account of its attendant difficulties, it often happens that the victims are grown np white girls, who, by the aid of a female accomplice, are decoyed from their homes, then seized, and carried off by force to a distance, and eventually become the property of a Moor who desires an addition to his harem. As an instance of the audacity with which acts of this kind are perpetrated, a case is cited in which three white girls, from about seventeen to twenty years of age, had been

kidnapped, and were publicly exposed for" sale. This occurrence took place little more than three years ago in the town of Laraicbe, a place occupied by several European residents. PETTICOATIToN FIRE. There is a sensible article in the KolnischeZeitung on the burning of ladies’ dresses, which has of late caused so many accidents. The writer, after pointing out that the whole apparel of ballet-dancers and all other thin dresses should be made tire-proof by »- simple operation, says about ordinary dresses: ‘ Provided a lady sees that her dress has caught fire, what ought she to do ? The answer is that she should at once lie down on the floor, and, if possible, draw up her feet ; if anybody is at hand who can putout the flames without endangering his or her own dress, the extinguishing of the* flames may be left to others. The one rule of safety is that a person whose clothes have caught fire should, without delay, sit or lie down on the floor or ground. Running for help by rushing through draughty doors and passages has exactly the opposite of the desired effect, and should be altogether avoided.’

HOW ANIMALS PRACTICE MEDICINE.

Animals get rid of their parasites by using dust, mud, clay, etc. Those suffering from fever restrict their diet, keep quiet, seek dark, airy places, drink water and sometimes plunge into it. When a dog has lost its appetite it eats that species of grass known as dog’s grass, which acts as an emetic and a purgative. Cats also eat grass. Sheep and cows, when ill, seek out certain herbs. An animal suffering from chronic rheumatism always keeps, as far as possible, in the sun. The warrior ants have regularly organised ambulances. Latreille cut the antennse of the ant, and other ants came and covered the wounded part with a transparent fluid secreted from their mouths. If achimpanzee is wounded, it stops the bleeding, by placing its hand on the wound or dressing it with leaves and grass. When an animat ha 3 a wounded leg or arm hanging on, it completes the amputation by means of its teeth. A dog, on being stung in the muzzle by a viper, was observed to plunge his head repeatedly for several days into running water. This animal eventually recovered, A sporting dog was run over by a carriage. During three weeks in winter it remained lying in a brook, where its food was taken to> it. This animal recovered. A terrier hurt its right eye. It remained under a counter,, avoiding light and heat, although it habitually kept close to the fire. It adopted a general treatment, rest and abstinence from food. The local treatment consisted in licking the upper surface .of the paw, which it applied to the wounded eye, again licking the paw when it became dry. Animals suffering from traumatic fever treat themselves by the continued application of cold water, which M. Delaunay considers to be more certain than any -of the other methods. In view of these interesting facts, we are, bethinks, . forced to admit that hygiene and; therapeutics as practiced by animals may, in. the interest of psychology, be studied with advantage. Many physicians have been keen observers of animals, their diseases and the methods adopted by them in their instinct to curs themselves, and have availed themselves of the knowledge so brought under their observation in their practices.—N. O. Picayune.

HOW THE VIOLET BECASIE THE

EMBLEM OF THE BONAPARTIST PARTY.

The Temps of August 16 has an article giving an account of the manner in which, the violet became the emblem of the Imperial party in France. The facts are= gathered from a pamphlet published in theyear 1815, bearing the following "lengthy title ; ‘ Defence of the French Peopleagainst their Accusers, French as well asForeign, Supported by Evidence from the Correspondence of the ex Monarch, followed by the Anecdote which caused the Violet to Become a Rallying Sign, by the Author of “Precis Hisfcorique sur Napoleon.” ’ The story is as follows :—Thre6 days before departing for the Island of Elba, Bonaparte was walking in the gardens of Fontainebleau accompanied by the Due de Bassano and General Bertrand ; the Emperor was still uncertain whether he should offer resistance, or betake himself into exile in peace. TheDue de Bassano was endeavoring to show him that it was now no time for drawing back. Greatly impressed by the objectionsof his secretary, Napoleon continued to walk, up and down in silence ; he had no reply to make, and he was seeking something to distract his attention from the embarrassment of his position. Suddenly he saw near him. a pretty little child of three of four years of age who was plucking violets, of which hehad already made a little bunch. 4 My" dear,’ said the Emperor, * will you give meyour nosegay?’ ‘Certainly, sire,’ replied the lad, handing it to him with infinitegrace. Bonaparte took the flowers, kissed the child (whom he recognised as the son of a man employed about the chateau), and continued his walk. ‘Well, gentlemen,’ hesaid to his courtiers after a few minutes’ silence, 4 what do you think of that child ?." This chance meeting seems to me like a pieceof secret advice warning me for the future to imitate this modest flower ; yes, gentlemen, henceforward violets shall be the emblem of my desires.’ ‘ Sire,’ answered Bertrand, 4 for the glory of your Majesty, I like to. think that the feeling will last no longerthan the little flower which inspired you with it.’ The Emperor did not heed him. but withdrew to his private rooms. On thefollowing day he was seen walking in the garden with a small bunch of violets in hi® button-hole. Having reached a bed wherethev were planted, he commenced to pick some more of the flowers, which just there, happened to be rather scarce. A certain. Choudieu, a grenadier of the Guard then on sentry duty, said, 4 In another j’ear, sire, you will have less difficulty in plucking: them, they; will be thicker then.’ Napoleon looked at him in astonishment. 4 What !' he exclaimed, 4 do you suppose I shall be here again in a year’s time?’ ‘ Perhap3 sooner,’ was the reply ; ‘ at least we hope so.’ 4 But do you not know, soldier, that I am. leaving for the Island of Elba the day after-

to-morrow ?’ ‘ Your Majesty will suffer the to pass.’ ‘Are your comrades of the same opinion ?’ ‘ Almost all.’ ‘ Let them think so, then, hut not say so. When your sentry duty is over, go and find Bertrand ; he will give you twenty napoleons, but keep the secret.’ Choudieu having returned to the guard-room remarked to his comrades how, for the last two or three days, the Emperor had been walking about with a hunch of violets. ‘Well,’ said he, ‘for the future when we are talking between ourselves we must always call him Father Violet.’ So from that day the troops in their barrack and at their mess always referred to Napoleon a 3 Father Violet, The secret insensibly reached the public, and when violets were in season the adherents of the Emperor wore a bunch i* their button-holes or carried one in their hands. This is how they recognised one another.

PRUDERY DROWNS A MAN.

Harry D. Smith of Boston while swimming in Lake Idlewild, near Wenham, recently, was taken with cramps. He called for assistance, and two young men who were in a boat with two young women started to help him. But the girls, with criminal prudery, refused to allow the men to row near the drowning man. ‘ You shall not,’ they screamed, * you shall not take that naked man into this boat.’ The young men were foolish enough to heed their cries, and rowed the girls ashore as soon as possible, and then hurried back to young Smith, but before they reached him he went down for the last time. All this was in the presence of the young man's mother, who was only restrained by force from rushing into the water to help her son.

KILLING BABES-

Milwaukee, Sept. s.—The finding of a dead infant with a darning needle passed through its heart has lead to the disclosure that a regular business of putting babes to death, at so much per head, has been carried on in this city. Mrs Pauline Mittelstaedt, proprietress of a private lying-in house, fled a few weeks ago upon ascertaining that the authorities had accumulated evidence criminating her. She travelled under an assumed name in Michigan, but was over.hauled at Reed City and brought back last night. She confessed the murder of the child and claims to have been promised 300 dollars by its mother for putting it out of the way. The authorities are investigating the deaths of numerous other infants born out of wedlock and supposed to have been put to death by her. COURTSHIP IN CUBA. In those Cuban families which have not held themselves aloof from intercourse with foreigners the gradual influence of modern ideas has done much to soften the rigor of the old system, which debarred the maidens of a Spanish family from intereaurse with the opposite sex, but in many families the regime is still maintained, and the amante de ventana is still a common sight in Havana. He may pour forth to his mistress, sitting within the window, his most impassioned vows ; she is the star of his life, the light of his soul, the hope of his existence, but with these abstract delights he must :re3t contented. Toward a favored swain a tiny hand may he extended between the bars, a ribbon or other love tokeu entrusted, but the barred window is always between them, and the duenna always within earshot.—Temple Bar. DURATION OF ANIMAL LIFE. The duration of the life of various animals, birds, fish, etc., is thus stated : Elephant, 100 years and upwards ; rhinoceros, 20; camel, 100 ; lion, 25 to 70; tigers, leopards, jaguars, and hyenas (in confinement, about 25 ; heaver, 50 ; deer, 20 ; wolf, 20 ; fox, 14 to 16 ; llamas, 15 ; chamois, 25 ; monkeys and baboons, 16 to IS ; have, 8; squirrel, 7; rabbit, 7; swine, 25, stag, under 50 ; horse, 30 ; ass, 30; sheep, under 10; cow, 20; ox, 30 ; swans, parrots, and ravens, 200; eagles, 100 ; geese, SO; hens, and pigeons, 10 to 16 ; hawks, 30 to 40 ; crane, 24 ; blackbirds, 10 to 12 ; peacock, 20 ; pelieau, 40 to 50; thrush, 8 to 10 ; wren, 2 to 3 ; nightingale, 15 ; blackcap, 15 ; linnet, 14 to 23 ; goldfinch, 20 to 24; red. breast, 10 to 12 ; skylark, 10 to 30 ; titlark, 5 to 6 ; chaffinch, 20 to 24; starling, 10 to 12 ; carp, 70 to 150 ; pike, 30 to 40 ; salmon, 16; codfish, 14 to 17; eel, 16; crocodile, 100; tortoise, 100 to 200 ; whale (estimated), 1000; queen bees live 100 to 200; drones, 4 months ; worker bees, 6 months, CUBAN WOMEN. In the physical beauty of the Cuban -woman the commanding features are the feet, whose daintiness and symmetry are marvellous; the supple, willowy grace of movement of person ; the exquisitely modeled form, and the eyes, which never lose their lustre and glow. Cuban women wear shoe 3no larger the No. 1 size for women in the States. Nor is this diminutive size the result of any pinching process. She is horn that way. •She is the moat graceful woman on her feet, in her walk and carriage, in the promenade, or in the dance, you ever saw. Of her form, it is perfection. Nine women out of ten you meet are models of symmetry. There is a great delicacy in line and proportion. They do not so torture their persons or themselves. The Cuban, woman’s face may be said to he wholly interesting and lovely rather than wholly beautiful. Its beauty is in its expression rather than in repose. This face is of the Latin mould, ovaland withadelicate protruding of a pretty and shapely chin. Her complexion is warm, creamy, with no carnation in her cheeks. But her mouth, large, mobile, tremulous, with just a suggestion of pathos in the slight drawing down at the corners, has lips so red and ripe that ‘her ever-perfect teeth dazzle in brilliant ■contrast. Her hair is of that lead-black darkness which suggests a weird, soft mist upon the night, and is indeed a glory ever.

But her eyes are her priceless, crowning loveliness, her never ending power and charm. They cannot he described. When you say that behind their long, dai’k, half, hiding lashes they are large, dark, dreamy, jet glowiDg, flashing with fire, liquid with

languor, you have only hinted their inexpressible expressiveness. They are the same eyes at nine, at nineteen, and at ninety. A ROUMANIAN CUSTOM, A remarkable custom exists among the Roumanians living in the westerly Carpathians. Every year, at the feast of the Apostles Peter and Paul, a market is held on the crest of the Gaina, from 5000 to 6000 feet above the level of the sea, and here all the marriageable girls of the entire district assemble with their parents in order to be viewed and claimed. Mothers, aunts, grandmothers and various female friends contribute to the dowry, and this completed it is carried to the market on the Gaina in neatly made trunks, decorated with flowers, and carried by the family's best horses. Cattle, bees, and other household requisites are also added to the dowry. On the Gaina every family which has a marriageable daughter occupies a. distinct tent, in which the dowry is exhibited, and in which the bride-viewers are expected. The bachelors, too, are accompanied by parents or relatives, in whose company they inspect the girls who are eligible. The young men bring the best they possess, and each must particularly come with a girdle of gold or silver. After the brides are chosen, the public betrothal takes place, being con. ducted by a hermit who lives in this lonely spot. The mark of betrothal is not a riog, but a beautifully embroidered handkerchief. The betrothal is in many cases pre-arranged, but the ceremony must be gone through all the same.

A French physician, having tested his theory, advocates sleeping with the head lower than his feet. He slept that way for four years, and finds that his neck is nearly two inches larger owing to the swelling of the thyroid gland. He says in this way the brain receives a more plentiful blood supply and is consequently better nourished, while there is no danger of so much blood passing to the cerebral structure as to cause congestion. This danger is obviated by the enlargement of the thyroid gland, which holds back a certain portion of the blood in its dilated vessels, and which also act as a regulator of the cerebral circulation by exerting pressure upon the carotids, and thus diminishing their calibre.