LADIES’ PAGE.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 751, 23 July 1886, Page 4

LADIES’ PAGE.

Having appointed a lady to conduct this page, we have to reguest that all communications upon domestic matters, dress, cuisine, dec. dec., he addressed to Madame Elise, of the New Zealand. Mail.

WHY GIRLS WILL WED. BY LILLIE E. BARB. X. She rose at the early daybreak, "With a sick and aching head. And she said, —this cross little woman—• “ X wonder why girls will wed ! They wouldn’t, I’m sure, if they reckoned The things that a wife must bear; The never-done work of a household, The never-done Mother care.

“Six dozen pieceß to wash to-day. And the children must go to school. And everyone knows on washing days Baby is cross as a rule. And Bridget is new to the work yet. (Oh dear how my head does ache !) Yet, I shall have the dinner to cook, And all of the beds to make.” 111. But as Boon as breakfaßt was ready, Father came in from the yard ; He kissed the sick little mother. “ Was sure that her work was hard.” He said to the noisy boys : “ Be still! Your mother’s not well to-day And when he bid her ‘‘good-bye, "he wished He “could kiss the pain away.” IV.

And the coffee or kiss—which was it Z Healed like a magical charm ; The Bpirit of diligent gladness "Was everywhere on the farm. The father worked hard at the ploughing, Mother forgot her pain, Bridget did well with her washing. There wasn’t a drop of rain. V. The baking and cleaning were over, When the boys came home from school; Baby forgot it was washing-day. And pleasantly broke his rule ; And at night the honso was clean and bright, There was not a thing amiss. -•’Tis only a wife,” the farmer thought, “ Would do as much for a kiss” VI. And the wife, sitting down in the firelight. The baby asleep at her side, Her husband chattering, and watching her With a husband's loving pride, Thought mnch of her full and pleasant home. Of her children asleep in bed ; And said, with a sweet, contented laugh: ■“ No wonder that girls will wed t”

AH OLD HAND. Blue-veined and wrinkled, knuckly and brown, This good old hand is clasping mine; I bend above it, and looking down, I study its aspect, line by line. This hand has clasped a thousand hands That long have known no answering thrill; Some have moldered in foreign lands— Some in the graveyard on the hill. Clasped a mother’s hand, in the day When it was little and soft and white— Mother, who kissed it and went away. To rest till the waking in God’s good light. Clasped a lover’s hand, years agone, Who sailed away and left her in tears ; Under Sahara’s torrid sun i His hones have whitened years and years. Clasped the hand of a good man true, Who held it softly and fell asleep. And woke no more, and never knew How long that impress this would keep. Clasped so many, so many ! so few—- | That still respond to the living will, Or can answer this pressure so kind and true ’ So many, that lie unmoved and still ! Clasped at last this hand, my own ; And mine will molaer, too, in tarn. Will any clasp it when 1 am gone ? In vain I study this hand to learn.

NOVELTIES IN MOURNING. Jet, which has for so long been turned to good ornamental account, seems this season to be in greater requisition than ever. The highly polished description of it, with which use has long familiarised us, appears in unprecedented richness on mantles, dresses, and bonnets. The dull or dead jet, forms not only the trimming, but also the substance of many of the corslets and mantles destined for deep mourning, while the composition known as ‘ French jet » figures largely in the new ornament. Beaded sleeveless cuirasses are supplied both in bright and in dead jet, leaves and flowers being worked bead by bead upon a foundation of double net, which a solid groundwork of beads completely hides. In some examples the veining of leaves and shading of flowers are effected by the blending of the bright and the dull jet. In others, the flowers are entirely represented in the bright, and thrown into relief by the dull beads of the ground. A few show large lilies in silver beads upon a close jetted foundation, and there are examples in which the design is the same, but represented in steel. One of these, covered with well-shaded irises on a black ground, has been selected by the Crown Princess of Germany, who has ordered a similar one made entirely of jet. Chantilly lace finishes the fronts and edges the waists of these cuirasses, unless intended for deep mourning, when embroidered lisse or crape takes the place of the lace. Many have epaulettes or jetted fringes ; on others, there is merely an edging of beads, to border the armhole.

Dead jet is conspicuous also on many of the fichus, sometimes forming a complete breastplate, finished with a graduated fringe, into which is introduced some of the bright jet. In others it is shaped to divide a sort of double fan or jabot of lace or of embroidered lisse, on which are suspended loops or facets.

Solid jet collars made in deep Vandykes have the spaces between the points filled up with frillings of jetted lisse and bows, with tassels of jets suspended from the edge of the collar to tie over the front of the bodies. On others are pendeloques falling down to the waist in front, and diminishing to a fringe at the back of the neck. Most of the white, fichus are in areophane, others in folds of gauze ; some of-the latter are edged round the collar, and down one side with large pearls. The centre of others is represented by a double cascade of lace, through which are perceptible bows and ends of gauze ribbon.

Outside pockets are reappearing in the world of fashion. Those shown by this firm are of massive jet edged with pendeloques, and suspended from the waist by three bands of silk, bordered with handsome jet beads. High combs, with an open-worked design in French jet, rising about 4 inches above the head, are now placed on one side of the hair in front, and can be varied by aigrettes, on which appear wheatears, clusters of oats, and bunches of forget-me-nots. Necklaces or collarettes in deep Vandykes of carved jet are shown for full dress ; others are in dull jet worked in facets, and many are of carved beads. In French jet are to be seen also oval frames for photographs in beaded designs, both large and small.

The framework of the new mourning fans has all the effect, without the weight of carved oxydised silver. The base is of thi3 simulated metal, with a row of small grey feathers to divide it from the vellum. On the latter, which is in neutral tints of grey, are painted copies from celebrated pictures of the old masters. The vandyked edge is formed of larger feathers. In another description the outer sticks are of black pearl, inlaid with silver. On the spread, which is of black lisse, are laid appliqud sprays of Brussels point to alternate with bunches of flowers painted in shades of grey. The. long cloaks, which are entirely made of guipure or Chantilly, are usually lined with silk or satin in shades of heliotrope, consistency and strength being given to these laces h} 7 a narrow cord, which is sewn on by hand, to outline the design and throw it into greater prominence. In form every variety seem admissible—jackets! vi3ites, pelisses, , cuirasses. Some scarf-like mantles in soft silk, showing large checks in tit C S re y» and white, owe their origin to Worth. From the same artiste come carelessly-folded lace hoods, falling upon a foundation scarf of black velvet. Tuscan, straw appears to be gaining in favor ; it is used for hats in slight mourning, W’ith the upturned brim showing the same plait m black, the crown being often represented in a transparency of net. Choux and rosettes of ribbon are now frequently placed so low upon the brims of the upturned hats as to appear to be resting upon the hair. Jrlaits of crinoline both in white and black ai ®. amongst the revivals in past fashions which are reappearing upon bonnets. The veiling with tulle which has been so prevalent for ball dresses is, in many instances, adopted with good effect to tone down harsh contrasts in the headgear for demi-deuil. It is carried oyer flowers, ribbons, wings, and birds, leaving. perceptible the transparent drawn foundations, now so much used for bonnets.

Amongst the new materials for half mourning is the Turkish crape—a light texture, shown in stripes of all the shades through which black merges into white ; also in alternate stripes of black and grey, as well as in mottled patterns. Surahs appear in somewhat thicker texture and in an infinite variety of shades. Many in silver grey have geometrical designs or bouquets of flowers raised in black velvet upon their surface ; others, on which are checks in tints of ardoise, have over them similar crossbars described in velvet. Frise, satin, and velvet all combine to effect the shading of flowers raised upon the white pearl and heliotrope foundations of some of the failles Frangaises, while there is no lack of canvas —either with or without beaded designs—for those who seek more transparent fabrics. — * Queen.’

LISZT’S MUSICAL FACILITY. As an instance of Liszt’s wonderful facility, it is told of him that at one of Zimmermann’s musical evenings Liszt happened to be present, when a composer came to grief in playing one of his own compositions. The work was fresh from his pen, it had never been printed, and the music paper was so tilled with erasures and transpositions that the author could not read it, and to his great chagrin was obliged to stop playing. Liszt, pitying the composer’s embarassment, proposed to play the piece for him. ‘ But I cannot make it out myself,’ said the unfortunate man. ‘Give me the paper,’ answered the abbe, and, seating himself at the piano, he played the concerto with extraordinary brilliancy, without stopping once.

TWO WIVES IN ONE HOUSEHOLD. A strange story—so strange that in fiction it would be condemned for its impossible situation—comes from Milwaukee. Five years ago, as the story goes, Mrs Herneman, wife of William, quietly submitted to a divorce for which he sued on the ground that she had borne him no children. William soon after married again, and now has two children. About two months ago he removed to Milwaukee from Michigan, where he divorced his first wife. A few days later his first wife arrived in Milwaukee, and begged so piteously to be near her former husband, whom she said she still loved more than life, that Mr Herneman and his present wife took her in as housekeeper. They are now all living under the same roof, and the former wife seems to be exceedingly grateful for her privileges and fond of her former husband’s children. The love that can urge a woman to accept this situation must be irresistible.—Chicago News.

MANNERS FOR BOYS. In the street.—Hat lifted when saying ' Good-bye,’ or * How do you do ?’ Always precede a lady upstairs, but ask if you shall precede her in going through a crowd or public place. At the street door.—Hat off the moment you step into a private hall or office. Let a lady pass first always, unless she asks you to precede her. In. the parlor.—Stand till every lady in the room, also older people, are seated. Look people straight in the face when they are speaking to you. In the dining room.—Take your seat after ladies and elders.

Never play with your knife, ring, or spoon. Do not take your napkin up in a bunch in your hand. ' Special rules for the mouth. —Smacking the lips and all noise should be avoided. If obliged to take anything from the mouth, cover it with your hand or napkin. Always knock at the door of any private room.

A HEALTH ACROSTICThe Trinity Church Association of New York city distributes gratuitously among the tenement houses in the lower wards of the city the following hints on the preservation of health, in verse printed on a card : As soon as you are up, shake blankets and sheet; Better be without shoes than sit with wet feet; Children, if healthy, are active, not still; Damp beds and damp clothes will both make you ill ; Eat slowly, and always chew your food well; Freshen the air in the house where you dwell; Garments must never be made to be tight; Homes will be healthy, if airy and light; If you wish to be well, as you do, I’ve no doubt, Just open the windows before you go out; Keep your rooms always tidy and clean; Let dust on the furniture never be seen ; Much illness is caused by the want of pure air, Now to open your windows be ever your care ; Old rags and old rubbish should never be kept; People should see that their floors are well swept ; Quick movements in children are healthy and right; Kemember the young cannot thrive without light ; See that the cistern is clean to the brim ; Take care that your dress is all tidy and trim Use your nose to find out if there be a bad drain ; Very sad are the fevers that come in its train. "Walk as much as you can without feeling fatigue ; Xerxes could walk full many a league ; Your health is your wealth, which your wisdom must keep ; Zeal will help a good cause and the good you will reap.

'EMPRESS EUGENIE, AND-HOME-LESS.’ The following is the latest story that is told about the Empress Eugdnie, who has ever been a striking figure since the day she charmed Napoleon 111 with the wreath of violets which she wore in her golden hair. ‘ ’Twas morning then, but now the night has come.’ A few days ago, says the chronicler, a visitor to the Marcus Church at Venice, where the ex-Empress is now staying, observed a lady, dressed in deepest mourning, kneeling in long, silent prayer before one of the side altars. When at last she rose ? she looked abont her in search of something which she missed, and then walked slowly away, and supporting herself by the wall toward the entrance. The stranger politely offered his arm, which was gratefully accepted, the lady meanwhile explaining that one of the beggars must have taken her silver-headed walking stick away, without which she was ‘very helpless.’ Outside the church two liveried footmen were waiting; the stranger on retiring offered his address card (alas, for cruel Nemesis, he was a German from Berlin), glancing at which the lady was seen to shudder slightly, and then return the civility by whispering, ‘Empress Eugenie, and—homeless.’—Pall Mall Gazette.

HOUSEKEEPING IN MEXICO. The bread consumed in the City of Mexico is all bought at the public bakeshop 3, and made in the French way. Each day opens a new chapter in domestic affairs, only provisions enough being bought to last through, so that at night the larder is as bare as the cupboard of Mother Hubbard. There is no * trust ’ in Mexico, and the head of a house who neglects to leave a pile of silver dollars with his wife produces a famine in short order. The grocer, meatman, charcoal vendor, and fruit-dealer all do a cash business, and no money no food. A few rich men have a practical monopoly of the meat business. The beef of the city is brought from Vera Cruz and Guanajuata, about two hundred head a day being killed, cattle being worth from 25d01s to 45d01s a head. Mutton is in universal use, and is better than the beef. Some choice carloads of mutton have lately been shipped through from New Mexico at a good profit. One rich man controls the pork market, and the extent of his monopoly is shown by the fact that he hires seventy-five telephones, which place him in communication with dealers who act as his agents. This monopolist also makes the tallow dips that are in universal use among the poorer people. The better class of candles, by the way, are imported from France and Germany, and the enterprising American, who will take a bright Mexican partner and go into scientific candle-making, ought to be in the way of making money. There are no good fish in the market, but the game is excellent. The necessaries of life are with good butter selling at Idol a pound, milk 20 cents a quart, tea 2dol 50 cents a pound, chocolate 40 cents, lump sugar cents, potatoes 6i cents a pound, and kerosene 87 cents a gallon. An enterprising American widow and her daughter, by the way, are making good butter and selling it readily at a generous profit.

THE AFTER-DINNER NAP. There is much difference of opinion concerning the desirability of an after-dinner nap. Those who advocate it cite the example of animals, but these gorge themselves with food whenever opportunity offers, and are heavy and drowsy in consequence. A short rest is, however, different from lethargic sleep, and often appears to do good. Brain work should certainly be forbidden after dinner; the interval between it and bedtime should be devoted to recreation and amusement. In the case of elderly people a short nap after a late dinner often aids digestion, but as a general rule it is better for such persons to make their principal meal at 2 P.M. The digestive powers of most elderly people are at a low ebb in the evening. When sleeplessness is troublesome relief should be sought for in the discovery and removal of the cause whenever possible. The condition is often due to indigestion, and when this is the case the ordinary remedies for inducing sleep are worse than useless. The nervous relations between the brain and the stomach are so intimate that disorder of the one organ is almost certain to affect the other. Excitement, worry and anxiety, which have their seat in the brain, interfere with the functions of the stomach, and in like manner anything that unduly taxes the power of or irritates the stomach disorders the circula* tion and nutrition of the brain. The sleep lessness often complained of by gouty persons is due to the poisonous effect of the morbid material upon the nervous system. Excessive smoking, too much alcohol, tea, and coffee, often resorted to by overworked persons are frequent causes of sleeplessness. In all these cases the cause is removable, while the effect may be counteracted by appropriate treatment. Nothing is more mischievous, however, than to continue the habits, and to have recourse to drugs to combat the effects. A due amount of exercise tends to induce normal sleep, and such exercise need not be of a violent character. A walk of two or three miles daily is sufficient, as is perhaps as much as a busy man can find time for. A ride on horseback, the Palmerstonian cure for gout, is probably the best form of exercise for those whose minds are constantly at work. It has been well said that a man must come out of himself when in the saddle ; he is forced to attend to hi 3 horse and to notice the objects he meets. Walking may be a merely automatic process, and afford little, if any, relief to the mind, and carriage exercise may be practically valueless, if the mind is not diverted from what had previously occupied it.—The Fortnightly Review.

A HEROIC SACRIFICE FOR LIBERTY’S SAKE.

Washington, April 2.—One branch of the President’s duties that is seldom noticed has relation to the pardon of criminals. There are thousands of persons sentenced by "the Federal Courts in different parts of the country, and the President 13 the only person who chn pardon them. Always a considerable number of petitions are before him, and he usually devotes an evening in a week in going over the papers. Not one in twenty who applies is pardoned, but every case is considered. The papers first go to the Attorney-General, who has a clerk who files them away, writes to the Judge and District Attorney in whose jurisdiction the man was sentenced, for their views, and then makes a brief. If the AttorneyGeneral thinks the case is a worthy one he indorses it over to the President, and without that indorsement none go to the White House. Mr Garland is not ready with this recommendation in many cases, and the President’s table is not loaded. And he is very careful about granting pardons. But he has a case now before him that certainly does appeal to one’s feelings. Nearly eighteen years ago one of the most expert counterfeiters in the country was found guilty. He was a young man, and at the time considered among the best engravers in this country. He was convicted on two counts and sentenced to seventeen years oh each one. His wife had recently married him, and some time after he went to prison a little girl was born. With the child the mother went to live in a quiet town near the penitentiary where the father was confined. As she grew into girlhood and womanhood the girl was taught that her father had gone to sea years before, and had been given up for lost. She never knew that

within a few miles he was imprisoned, and’. that her mother visited him there every month. The seventeen long years elapsed, and the man is in middle life. He had believed that the two sentences were running together, and was planning for his released But when the time came he was told that he - had then the second term to serve. Imagine his distress and that of his wife ! She went to work to try and have him and the answer she received was that he was too • expert a man to have his liberty, for theprinciple is established, ‘ Once a counterfeiter always a counterfeiter.’ Finally the result of her efforts was told to him. At first he was desperate. But one day suddenly, as he was working in the prison,, he drew both wrists across a knife, and both hands hung forever helpless at his side. * They cannot refuse me now,’ he said. ‘ I can never engrave again.’ He is still in prison, but before long will probably be dismissed. Justice would seem to have had her dues.

GLEANINGS. Sir William Fraser, of Ledeclune, writes a follows to Notes and Queries; * The Russian national hymn is Haynes Bayly’s ‘l’d be a butterfly,’ played in slow time. Lady Dufferin’s song, * So Miss Myrtle is going to marry,’ is ‘ For the, oh, dear, dear country,’ a well known hymn in * Hymns Ancient and Modern.’ ‘We don’t want to fight, bnt, by jingo, if we do,' is from Mozart's Twelfth Mass, sung in the English Church to the words ‘ Judge me, O Lord.’ The corporation of Helsingfors, Finland, has appointed a lady—Miss Rosina Heikel—as doctor to the corporation. • The engagement is from June 1,18 SS, until April 10, ISS9, and the annual remuneration is 2400 marks. Miss Heikel is only to attend upon children and women, and the appointment, which has been very freely discussed, seems to give general satisfaction. The most approved change in dinner giving is the effort which is being made to shorten the courses as much as possible, and to give two entrees instead of four, and the same as regards sweets. Hors d'ceuvres, which precede the soup, are as popular as ever. Witty menus, when original and funny, provoke much amusement at dinner,' and are the last novelty in this direction. There is no doubt that far less wine is drunk at dinner parties each successive season j many gentlemen drink claret throughout a dinner, and do not touch champagne, while many ladies only drink water, even at the largest dinner parties. The Queen of Roumania is dangerously ill from dropsy, and her condition is causing the greatest possible anxiety to her family, as her malady has seriously affected her nervous system. The King and Queen of Roumania have no children, so that her illness excite 3 an unusual amount of interest abroad.

Routledge, the London publisher, says his firm print 600,000 books in a year and bind 4,000,000. During a period of eighteen months they have sold 40,000 copies of ‘ Robinson Crusoe,’ It is the best selling book that they have, although ‘ Monte Cristo ’ sells nearly as well. Of course these are cheap editions. Among the poets Longfellow leads. Next comes Scott, with 3,170 ; then Shakespeare, with 2,700; and then Byron with 2,380, Of Rogers only 32 copies were sold, and of Keats only 40. The new colors in Paris this season are to be * Atlantic Ocean ’ and * Serpent,’ the lightest and darkest of greens and * Partridge’ and ‘Bumble-bee,’ lightest and darkest of browns.

Try to be something in the world and you will be something. Aim at excellence, and excellence will be attained. This is the great secret of success and eminence. ‘ I cannot do it,’ never accomplished anything. * I will try,’ has wrought wonders —Hawes.

The Bishop of Oxford sent to the churchwardens in his diocese a circular of inquiries, among which was ; Does your officiating clergyman preach the Gospel, and is his conversation and carriage consistent therewith V The churchwarden of Wallingford replied : ‘ He preaches the Gospel, but does not keep a carriage.’