THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 691, 29 May 1885, Page 10

THE GARDEN.

SEASONABLE WORK FOR JUNE. The Fruit Garden. The time has now arrived for a general pruning of fruit trees, with the exception perhaps of peaches and nectarines, which can be left later than any other kind. Root pruning may also be performed now whereever it is required ; it is often needed to check the growth, of trees which are too luxuriant. With plums and pears it is especially needful, particularly the latter. The best manner of performing this operation is to open up a trench all around the tree at a distance of two feet six inches from the stem, and to a snfficient depth to reach all the roots, all the stronger of which should be cut asunder witn a sharp knife ; all the small and fibrous carefully preserved. Apple trees which are affected with American blight should have diseased parts painted with some insecticide. Caster-oil is believed to be as good as, or better than, anything else, and though somewhat expensive, a little goes a long way. It should be applied with a rather stiff painter’s brush. Pruning. —Winter pruning would not be nearly so extensively needed as it now is if summer pruning or “ stopping” as it is called, was more generally practised, as the more freely the' knife is used the more shoots are there produced. The yearly thinning and shortening thus becomes an absolute necessity, whereas if the strong shoots were stopped several times during the growing season there would be a greater production of fruit-bearing branches, and a corresponding smaller number of useless branches to he cut out. Without entering into details with regard to pruning each separate kind of fruit tree — which has been repeatedly done in these papers—it may be generally stated as a shortening back to spurs, the entire removal of shoots and branches where too much crowded, and the shortening back of leading shoots to from six to eight inches. The exceptions to this will be in the case of black currants and gooseberries; the latter are pruned by some cultivators on the “ close spur system,” while others prefer leaving a fair sprinkling of young wood for bearing, thinning old branohes and spurring back the lower and interior shoots; either system may be adopted, as the fruit is borne on shoots of the previous season’s growth as well as on spurs which remain fruitful for a period of years. The pruning of black currants will consist of shortening the young shoots by a few inches and thinning out where too crowded, the fruit being chiefly borne on the young shoots. Wherever it is needed, a good top dressing of well rotted stable manure should be given, which may be forked in later on at the final clearing up. A good dressing of lime is also very beneficial. Besides acting as a ferfcihzer, it sweetens and purifies the land. The work of planting may be carried on at all times when the weather is suitable. Planting should never be done daring wet weather, as the soil is then sure to be in a muckv s’ate, quite uufit for planting. Fruit trees should never be planted deeply, but, on the contrary, should be kept as near the surface .as possible, compatible with the preservation of a due amount of moisture at the roots, and a sufficient covering to protect them from the drying influences of the wind. A covering of three or four inches of soil over the roots will be ample. A good stake should be given as a support to every newly-planted tree. Carefully clear away every sucker that may be springing from the roots of trees aud fork out and effectually destroy every noxious weed. Grape vines may be pruned as soon as all the leaves are off. The Kitchen G-arden. As crops are cleared off the ground, it should be dug or trenched as required preparalory to receiving spring crops, working in a good supply of half rotten manure. Asparagus beds which have not yet been pruned should be at once attended to. After the old growths and weeds have been pruned away, slightly stir the surface, and give five or six inches deep of wed-decayed manure. Seak.de beds should be cleared of the old leaves and weeds. The crowns may be forced by bring covered with inverted boxes, each with a movable bottom to afford facilities for gathering the crop. The whole should be covered with fermenting manure to a sufficient depth to ensure the maintenance of a steady heat for about a fortnight, by which time the crop will be ready. The crowns should be covered in batches for succession, and may be continued until growth commences naturally, when the crowns may be blanched by being covered completely from the light with boxes as flower pots. Fresh beds may now be planted in triangular groups of three each, a foot apart, and four feet apart from centre to centre of each group. New beds of rhubarb may be made. The soil should be very deep and rich, and the plants planted from three to four feet apart ; clean and well manure old plantations. Plant out cabbage and cauliflower for the early spring crop; plant also shallot?, garlic and potato-onions. Sow in dry ground a few peas—Little Gem—for a chance of an early crop, and also two or three rows of broad beans. Flower Garden. The planting of ornamental trees, shrubs and herbaceous plants should, if possible, be completed during this month, or if the state of the weather does not permit of its being satisfactorily finished during that time it will be better to postpone the work till the end of August, except in the case of light porous soils which may be successfully planted during the worst part of the winter. Alterations of whatever nature should be steadily pushed forward, taking advantage of dry

•weather to complete thorn. Surface and underground drainage should be provided ■where it has been found necessary they should be laid, and these already in use will require to be kept in a state o' efficiency. Frequently the roots of trees choke the pipes, in which case they will require to be taken up, cleaned out and relard.

Oak, sycamore, and nearly all kinds of deciduous tree leaves make a valuable mould for potting young plants and sowing choice seeds in, and on that account should be carefully saved and placed in a heap to rot. As it is in many cases difficult to get enough of these to make a moderate heap they may be mixed with the softer kinds of evergreen leaves when sweeping up, but excluding as much as possible those of pines, firs, gums, cypress, &e., which, from their risinous decay resisting nature are only suitable for the compost heap and not much of an acquisition to it.

Manure and fork over herbaceous borders where these are thickly planted it will be necessary to use a small fork to avoid injuring the roots, and to permit of the opeiation being neatly done. Soils which are already sufficiently open will simply require to be topdressed with well rotted manure ; and bulbous &nd herbaceous plants generally, which make •their annual growth from under, or close to the surface of the ground, show by their extra vigour that they appreciate such treatment, and delight to come peeping up through a good fat coating of manure. - Bedding plants in the nursery ground and under the cover of frames will require frequent attention during cold wet sunless weather. Pick off all dead or decaying leaves which otherwise would contaminate and rot those that are healthy, and for the same reason cut out every shoot that shows -kigu3 of decay. Thin out the flower buds of camellias where these appear in clusters. Out down chrysanthemums, divide the plants and plant out in nursery rows, or where they are intended to "be grown the following season, if the ground is ready to receive them. Lift dahlias, and all tender plants which it is necessary to save from the effects of frost. Towards the end of the mouth the pruning of roses and other plants may be commenced. The Greenhouse.

To maintain a nice floral display throughout the winter months, it will be necessary to husband all the solar heat possible, by judicious ventilation, careful watering, and by keeping the glass cleared of filth, so that the light may readily gain access to the plants. The ventilators should be opened and closed in accordance with the state of the weather, that is, opened during mild days and clo ed against cold chilling winds. Damp must be expelled by a free circulation of air on all favourable occasions, otherwise its presence will favour the spread of mildew and rot of flower and foliage. If the plants are over-watered, the temperature at their roots will be so much lowered as to cause a stagnation of growth incompatible with their healthy existence. Under such conditions the plants become a ready prey to the ravages of parasite life. Primulas and camellias soon suffer from the effects of over or underwatering ; the flowers and foliage of the former become affected with rot which frequently causes their death, while the flower buds of the latter, without expanding, immaturely perish. If only sufficient water is given to moisten the surface of the soil—which is unfortunately tio often the case—it will be readily seen that the best roots in the interior and bottom part of the pot must bo in a starved condition, unable to help themselves or nourish the buds, which thus drop off from sheer lack of nourishment. There must be a certain balance in the quantities of air and water in the soil : if there is too much water there must be too little air, and if there is too much air there must be too little water. A smart rap with the knuckles on the sides of the pots will show, by the sound •emitted, which element predominates—the aerial or aqueous—and serve to control the giving or withholding of water in accordance with the necessities of the p ants. Various bardy choice flowering plants specially adapted for greenhouse embellishment may now be lifted from the reserve ground and potted. Amongst others, as serving to give a pleasing variety of colour and fragrance during the early spring months, the following are recommended, viz., coloured and white double primroses, lily of the valley, spirea japoniea, deutzia gracilis, dielytra spectabilis, double neapolitan violet, and prunus sinensis, pink and white varieties. The majority of chrysanthemums will now be more or less out of flower aud should he cut down, and if the plants are required for propagating purposes they had better be planted out in a warm corner of the reserve nursery. Their place in the conservatory can be occupied by libonias, salvias, or other plants breaking into bloom. Yonng fuchsias should be potted in as required, also some large specimens to embolden the decorative features of the house. Suecessional batches of young flowering plants of all kinds, in pits and frames, will require to be shifted into larger pots as increased growth renders it necessary to do so. All of them should be within a few inches of the glass to obtain sufficient light, and not overcrowded.