THE CRUISE OF THE LUNA.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 142, 14 March 1874, Page 15

THE CRUISE OF THE LUNA.

[CONTINUED I'ROJI PAGE SEVEN.] Chapter IY. At 4 p.m. on Wednesday, 25tli February wo cleared from the Bluff and took our departure for the west, via Dog Island. After laying off the lighthouse until nearly dusk, in order to get a quantity of oil drums on board, to enable tho inspection to be completed, and to give Captain Jolinston’and Captain Thomson harbormaster at tho Bluff, an opportunity of ascertaining the exact position of rocks to the weßt of the island, the Luna’s course was laid for Green Island. The fine weather at last left us; the wind from the south-west roso rapidly, the sea began to get up, and altogether it appeared very probable that in the morning, on turning ouc, wo would find tho steamer at anchor under Stewart’s Island or Centre Island for shelter. Before midnight there was a heavy head sea, which at plucos was increased by a tide-rip, and the sea-going qualities of the Luna were well tested, tho answer to the mental question of those who were new to her being satisfactory. In tho morning, as we went more broadside to the swell, sho rolled quickly, but not badly, as witness the fact that no one rolled out of bed —that is, the couch which surrounds the saloon, although there is no protection in tho Bliape of a board. Even at breakfast nothing went off the table, which was not protected by fiddles. The coast looked forbidding ; it was generally rocky, although not very high or precipitous ; but the dull sky, lowering clouds, and the heavy breaking surf, made one well satisfied to be on board a steamer rather than in a sailing vessel so close to a lee shore. The Solander Islands were plainly seen at intervals twenty-four miles to the southward. By tho time wo were opposite Green Island the sea had gone down, and there appeared to be fine weather a-head, but behind us all looked thick and stormy. There was a break on the boach that would have made landing dangerous ; but, after passing the point, the Lana’s head was turned, and an opening that appeared to promise a good landing close to the headland was examined, but breaking water indieated a reef, and the idea of landing there had to be abandoned. There would have been good shelter under the rocks which run out to the east; but tho point of the island could not have been reached from there without a boat, and it would have been useless to go ashore. Tho rocks hero were scraggy and steep, with many strangely-worn caverns and openings. One had a holo that looked like a church window ; in another, there was a most symmetrical arch, fully 30ft high with the sides quite perpendicular, and the top almost a perfect semicircle; several had irregular openings, and up some of the fissures tho water ran to a great height, as it broke into a spray. A look-out was kept for rocks ahead, and he passed the word that three seals wore on the rockß, near shore. On looking wo could sco three black objects; but it was impossible to distinguish their form. The seaward point here would be a good position for a light; but Capo Windsor, further on, could be better distinguished by vessels approaching from the west, and would command a greater range. There was no possibility of landing there ; but as it is only some seven miles from Otago’s Retreat, the eastern entrance to Preservation Inlet, it was resolved to approach it from the land, should the sea not fall.

Otago’s Retreat takes its name from the fact that the schooner Otago, which accompanied H.M.S. Acheron, on the surveying expedition round here, took refuge in it, and got thence into the main Inlet, after trying for weeks to weather Coal Island. Three times she got to windward of this entrance, but could not reach the main or.e, having been twice driven back nearly to the Bluff; and on the third attempt, when it was found that she could not get round the point, it was determined to risk the shallow entrance, in which, on a sand-bar, there is only 6ft of water at low tides. There are a good many rocks at the Heads ; but they look w-orst at a distance, for there is a wide reaoh of clear water. The sand-bank is a mile and a half from the Heads, and in passing over it, the smallest depth was two fathoms. The bar is wide ; but inside, the water deepens rapidly, and at leas than half a mile, the chart shows fifiy-eight fathoms. Anchor was dropped in a very beautiful spot and close to a nice sandy boach, tho only one on the west side of the Inlet, but it was not one hundred yards long. The hills on both sides of Otago’s Retreat rise abruptly from the water’s edge and are covered bo thickly with trees and undergrowth that not a patch of surface is to be seen anywhere, though here and there a bald rock stands out. The shores of the inlet are nearly straight, and the direction is north-east. Looking to that point there is seen a lofty range of bold mountains. Solitary Peak is 3265 feet high, and Forgotten Peak 3682 feet; I think these were the highest summits we saw from our anchorage, and when the sky was clear they looked a great height although there were smaller ranges between them and us. They were often veiled in mist, and as the sun now and then shone out on part of them we enjoyed a splendid piece of highland mountain scenery. Close to us on the mainland there is a peak 1075 feet high, and on Coal Island one 850, but we were too close in to see them.

All was soon bustle and stir, and parties were quickly made for exploring. The marine

department, and some who wished to examine tho coalmine at the entrance, went off in a whaleboat and were absent most of the day. The surveyors tramped along tho coast over beach, rocks, and young crags until they reached Puysegur Point, and hero they found a site which would do well for ships making the land from the west, but from what could be seen it was decided that Windsor Point would probably be tho best, and it was determined to visit it on tho next day, weather permitting. Some of the whaleboat party had capital trumpeter fishing, and they hauled up about eight dozen very quickly. This fish offers great resistance for its size, and when two were on the lino at once, as often happened, it was good sport, not to say hard work, to haul in. The little beach near the ship was a favorite landing place. Near here there is a cave which enters the hill-aide for over 150 ft. The rocks outside were made a standpoint by Mr Burton, who took some views, and Camera Cave was the name givon to tho cavern. There was a little shooting, but it was almost impossible to find the pigeons that were shot, and the scramble ovor tho steep hills through tho wet undergrowth was quite enough to make one or two hours long enough for that sport. The day was passed pleusantly, and all enjoyed the fresh air and liberty. At 5 o’clock a whaleboat started for the crayfish ground, at Stcepto Island, where crayfish are known to abound—that is, they always abounded on previous occasions, but not one could bo had. On a former visit of the Luna, they were caught in note, clinging to an oar, and by hand, bub only ono was soon and it would not coine and bo caught. Tho boats returned empty, and all of us got a most unmerciful quizzing, and at our lato tea, which consisted of some capital trumpeter, we had to undergo n running fire of chaff, in which the word crayfish constantly cropped up. All hands in the boat enjoyed tho row down to Stcepto Island, but it was too cold to make waiting for bites pleasant. On tho return, we had to take shelter under an overhanging rock and trees from a smart hailstorm, and wo wero very hungry whon tea was served.

By 10 o’clock all were in bunk, and the fatigues of tho day made some, and the fresh air and exercise caused others, to sloep soundly—so soundly, indeed, that about half did not hear a most terrific peal of thunder that burst right over us in the night. I did not hear it, but it was described by one as tho worst he ever heard out of the tropics ; and all who were awake agree that it shook the ship and made her quiver from stem to stern as though slie had struck a rock. The peal burst with one loud sharp report, then rattled like volleys fired by countless hosts of infantry, and finally roared and rumbled among the hills and mountains, as it was echoed back again and again. Thero is coal at the eastern Head of Otago’s Retreat, and at one time it was hoped that it would be made available for supplying tho Melbourne steamers, as well as towns and vessels in the Colony. A company was formed to work it; and about two years ago, a parcel of 45 tons was sent to Dunedin, but operations on a large scale have not been carried on. The coal resembles that got at Kaitangata, in Otago, Slid at Waikato, in the North—and is of much better quality than that from the Green Island field, near Dunedin. How r ever, it is not adapted for use on hoard steamers, and consequently is not likely to bo largely worked, as other coal of a similar class is more readily available for manufactures and domestic purposes. The coal averages 3ft in thickness, and was worked by a tunnel, which is in about 100 ft, still in good order. The seam is regular, and has a dip of about 25 degrees. Nearer Puysegur Point, other seams crop up, and thero is no doubt that there exists a very large quantity of coal which some day will be of value ; but at present it is not likely to come into demand in the face of supplies from places more convenient to Dunedin and other centres of population. At 6 o’clock on Thursday morning the sky was overcast. The wind was cold, and no wonder, for the mountains had all their summits and half their sides whitened with snow. They had their winter clothing on, and lovely they looked. Over night, a few had arranged to bathe in the morning, and dospitefcthe keen wind and threatening clouds, they stuck to their resolve,and left, for the shore amidst not a little quizzing. We found all pleasant, the water not too cold, and were dressing snugly in a sheltered corner when in camo a roller that caused all of us to pick up the clothes we had not got on and run for it. When we returned on board there was plenty of chaff, and it was extraordinary to see how easily some of those who had remained on board and tried to keep warm counterfeited shivering as a good joke at our expense. Ihe fact is they had been practising, and their teeth chattered quite naturally. A gale was blowing outside, and nothing could be done in the way of exploring the coast, so all hands remained on board during the early part of the morning. There were frequent showers of rain, accompanied by hail, and at half-past 10 there was a fall of hail that completely whitened tho beach, and every place that was not covered with trees and shrubs. This weather would make a man on shore keep by his uin fireside, but we made the best of it. cut of doors. About twelve, as it would be quite impossible to go outside and inspect Cape Windsor, the Luna’s quarters were shifted to Kisbee Bay, a sheltered spot at the head of Otago’s Retreat, and we went t,o dinner just as tho anchor was dropped. While ali wero hard at work at the table, we noticed a good deal of loud talking in the way of giving orders, but it had reference only to making the shore line fast. Upon going on deck we found that the steamer had been hauled into the snuggest little nook imaginable. It was close to a rounded promontory that became an island at

high water, and at low tide thero was about ono foot of water between tho smooth sandy bottom and the Luna’s keel. On three sides we had land thickly timbered to the water’s edge, and on the fourth smooth water, although it waß blowing a gale at the Heads. This day must bo noted as the beginning of the sliip-biscuit and sandfly period : all our bread bad been eaten, and the flies attacked us in thousands. A Canterbury man, who has travelled a great deal in in and out-of-the-way spots, and had been so often attacked by these pests, that ho had got proof against them that they would not bite him, found that it was quite a different species in this sound, and they swarmed upon him. Our unfortunate photographer was a victim, and whenever lie required both hands for some critical operation the flies settled on every visible portion of uncovered skin and half maddened him. Ho was only safe with his head under the black velvet pall.

Soon after two o’clock five excursionists took the whaleboats and went on a voyage of discovery. All of us had not rowed for some jears, but wo got along fairly well, and by stopping occasionally to look at the scenery wo managed to keep pretty fresh, and with the help of some strong squalls and a favoring tide reached tho entrance of Revolver Bay in good time. Thero was a race for tho last half mile to get under shelter of the rocky head of that bay before a swiftly approaching hail storm caught us, and we just won. Down came the hail with great force, but wo wero under a protecting rock. While waiting hero an attompt was made to find bottom with a fishing lino which happened to bo in tho boat —wo hud agreed not to fish, but to explore—but at about seven fathoms a large blue cod hooked himself on and was hauled up. We had found blue cod so plentiful that it had become tho rule to pitch them back into the water when caught, so we were not tempted to commence fishing. Aftor pulling across the bay, and getting a capital view between its precipitous sides, wo started for the steamer by a round-about route which made the return six miles, and as we met two squalls and had to row against a strong tide, the verdiet on our return was that we had been far enough. All agreed that a week ago they could not hare done so much work, so it must be concluded that tho trip has been a renovation. I just got back in time to join a fishing party, but we only caught a few trumpeter and cod ; no crayfish were to bo had. There is on board ono determined crayfish hunter, and in the evening he went out alone, but had to return without one. This is decidedly strange, for in many parts of tile Inlet crayfish have been caught in hundreds. From near Kisbee Sound we got a glorious view of the Three-top Range, so called from its three peaks. All the higher portions were covered with snow, and as we could see tho mountain from the water’s edge to the summit, it had a much more imposing appearance than more distant hills of equal height. Returning from Revolver Bay, we had a clear view of a high cone-shaped hill, the sides of which sloped very evenly, and presented a great contrast to the high steep peak, with rocky precipitous sides, which forms the northern head of Revolver Bay. Every quarter of a mile wo rowed there was some great change of view. Description would not convey an idea of the scenery. The many islands and jutting points made one think that it was a mountain lake, not. an arm of tlie sea. for the foliage was on every spot of earth right down to spring-tide level, and the lower branches of the overhanging birch trees wero as level as though they had been cut ; down to high-water level they came, but no higher. There were, indeed, visible at once all the attractions of Highland sceuery, and that of the snow-clad Alps. The wonder of all is the vegetation. It is a thing to be amazed at. Since leaving Dunedin we have seen enough timber to supply the needs of the Colony for —well, it is of no use hnzarding a guess at a period, but when I think of .the miles of forest wo have steamed by, I should say that tho woods are inexhaustible. I will not now refer to the different kinds of trees that grow here, as it will be better to mako some attempt at classification of what we see in the various Sounds.