THE GOVERNOR’S VISIT TO WANGANUI.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 46, 9 December 1871, Page 4

THE GOVERNOR’S VISIT TO WANGANUI.

[By our Special Bepobter.] INTRODUCTORY. Tho completioa of a great colonial work such as the Wanganui Bridge is a matter full of deep interest for all true colonists. For amongst the chief wants of New Zealand roads and bridges occupy a prominent place. What matters it that there are millions of fertile acres awaiting tillage ; unless the settler has some means of bringing the fruit of his industry to market he cannot occupy them, While whole districts are isolated for want of communication, boundless resources lie undeveloped, and a country wide enough to absorb the unemployed and the surplus population of Great Britain remains a wilderness. Every bridge, be it ever so small, every bush track, be it ever so rough, is a step towards the great end of colonisation. For the battle of colonisation is slow and gradual. Step by step, and foot by foot, the forest is won over to industry; rod by rod, and mile by mile, tho great arteries of communication are laid down. Thousands fall in tho glorious struggle, leaving the laurels for those who follow them, aud still the mighty work goe3 bravely on, till the end shall have been accomplished. The Wanganui Bridge was truly a great colonial undertaking, and being such, it was right that its opening should accompanied by ceremonies befitting the occasion, and it was therefore eminently proper that his Excellency the Governor should be present as the highest representative in New Zealand of that nation whose career has been pre-eminently one of colonisation and progress. Moreover, apart from all this, his Excellency, being a genuine British Governor, is known to take a deep interest in the welfare of tho colony, and to cordially sympathise with tho great and “ heroic work of colonisation.” TIIE RECEPTION AT WANGANUI. The preparations to do honor to the occasion had been judicious and extensive. A reception committee at Wanganui, comprising the united talent of the place, had worked out a grand programme in which nothing was to be neglected that would conduce to honor the occasion, while tho inhabitants prepared for tho event a 3 one that should hereafter form a red-letter day in the annals of Wanganui. As your “ Special” wended his way to the wharf on Monday last, filled with lively anticipations of a holiday, ho observed a general movement in tho same direction. Paterfamilias with all his surroundings was bustling along, bearing his portmanteau. There was a confused stream of hat-boxes, portmanteaus, and carpet-bag 3 wharfwards. Clawhammer coats, and all the paraphernalia of a proper ball-room get-up were on their way to Wanganui: it seemed as though the famous blind piper who played all the rats and little children out of Antwerp was determined to allure all fashionable Wellington on board the Government p.s. Luna and Wanganui. One gentleman on the wharf was thrown into a state of intermittent growl by the overwhelming discovery that he had forgotten his kid gloves. Bye and-bye the s.s. Wanganui steamed away with a gay crowd of passengers on her decks, and then, amid the waving of handkerchiefs and other parting tokens, the Luna followed. I am not going to give you tbe log, but I may say that it was just a little rough, that there was a head wind, and that some of us were suddenly indisposed, and didn’t show up at tea-time. I may add that a considerable number of the passengers joined the numerous brotherhood of the “ Basonic” order, and that the steward had his work cut out for him. I can afford to be magnanimous, and so I shall not expose the weaknesses of my fellow passengers. I am of a forgiving disposition, and so I shall not take my legitimate revenge on tho miserable man who, knowingly, wilfully, and with malice aforethought, jumped my claim, i.e., appropriated my bunk to his own base uses, and, adding insult to injury, snored in it like a damaged trombone. I bury my own wrongs in the greatness of the occasion, and resume. And here I cannot do better than give a list of the passengers. Besides his Excellency the Governor, Lady Bowen, Miss Bowen, Miss Zoo Bowen, there were Captain Pitt, A.D.C.; Captain Machell, A.D.C.; his Honor W. Fitzherbert, Esq., Superintendent; the Hon D. M'Lean, Native and Defence Minister ; H. Bunny, Esq., Provincial Secretary, M.H.R,: C. E. Haughton, Esq., M.H.R.; C. O'Neill, Esq., M.H.R.; D. E. Brandon, Esq., M.H.R. • 0. Johnston, M.H.R.; C. B. Borlase, Provincial Solicitor ; Messrs J. G. Holdsworth, Crown Lands Office ; J. Woodward, sub-Treasurer; H. S. Wardell, R.M., Wairarapa; T. Buchanan, manager Bank of Australasia; J. Miller, F.S.A.; T. Jervis; S. Fitzherbert, jun; R, J. Bush, Government interpreter; Colonel St. John ; Major Kemp; and Kavvana Hunia, Tho Wellington Volunteer Artillery were on board, as follows : —Lieut. Pilcher, Sergeant Corliss (acting Sergeant-Major), Sergeant Sample, Sergeant Brogan,, fifteen men, and two guns. Besides these there were Mesdames Fitzherbert, Buckley, Gisborne, and the Misses Woodward, O'Niell, and Brigden. At daylight on Tuesday morning there was a long stretch of low sandy land to starboard, and the Wanganui steaming away several mile 3 a-head. Bye-and-byo objects became more distinct, and the pilot station and flagstaff standing on a small bluff headland were descried. But the entrance to the river was not discernible. There is so much sameness in the landmarks hereabout that one would be inclined to think mariners must experience no little -difficulty in entering the heads on

very dark nights. The Wanganui lay a long distance away from the mouth of the river, which the Luna entered at abmt 9 a.m., and anchored for the passengers to breakfast. This was a piece of seamanship on the part of Captain Fairchild that evoked warm encomiums from the hungry ones. Shortly afterwards tho Wanganui passed the Luna. The band of Murray’s Great World Circus was on board the Wanganui, and, as she passed the Lima, played the National Anthem —at least a critical musician told me thatwas the air, and I concluded he told the truth. The Wanganui remained a short distance a-head, and while the Luna lay at anchor Mr Borlase, junr, and Lieut. J. W. Jordan visited her. After breakfast the Luna steamed up tlie river followed by the Wanganui. The proper left bank of the river for some distance from its mouth i 3 formed by a long dreary eandspit, but on the right the land looks better. As tlie Luna approached Wanganui there were signs of stir and bustle. Here and there might bo seen a mounted scout galloping madly along the river bank, houses began to appear, and gradually tbe view opened as the Luna rounded a point opposite tho native village ofPutiki,and Wanganuiitselfwasdiselosed. Anon out shot two war canoes fully manned by natives in proper costume. It was a fine sight to see tho dai’k bodies bending simultaneously, and tho paddles flashing in tho sunshine. There stood a fugle man giving the time to the rowers, and there also stood General Mete Kingi in all the resplendent glory of a field marshals uniform, with gold epaulettes, and, — Oh shades of Bonaparte and Wellington, and the unfortunate brave—a bell-topper! Not a cocked hat —not the timehonored cocked hat of Hyde Park and the Horse Guards, bub tho mere miserable degrading chimney pot of antiquated construction, and shockingly the worse for wear.. But Mete Kingi was second to no one there in his loyalty, and his hearty way of showing it. Tho Union Jack floated at the stern of his canoe, and in the stern of the other sat Major Kemp’s daughter, gracefully wielding a paddle and bending ever and anon a-head, upon which all the arts of her ingenious sex had been lavished in piling up and slicking in a bewildering structure of feathers and other ornaments. Tho Maoris shouted their call of welcome, and accompanied tlie steamer for some distance, but though they put on all the cteam they could tlie Luna’s steam proved too much for them, and they were fain to pull in shore. As the Luna approached the wharf the scene became striking, animated, and picturesque. The town nestling below the green slopes, tho neat buildings, the cavalry winding along to the rendezvous with the sun flashing on their sabres, the groups of people in holiday attire in the streets and crowded about tbe wharves, the vessels decorated with flags, and cries of welcome and waving of garments by the natives —all formed a picture strikingly pleasing and picturesque. Indeed the surprise of the scene, coming on us as it did after a somewhat dreary night on shipboard, and a sandy waste on the river’s banks, rendered it all the more charming. But there is Aperama Tipae shouting until he is hoarse, and there is Kuwana Paipai in full fig (a field officer’s uniform) dancing about in a state of frantic enthusiasm and overflowing loyalty tho while he brandishes a mere pounama and keeps back tho vulgar pakeha crowd. Kuwana Paipai’s loyalty is of the Donnybrook kind, and there is a sort of mysterious sympathy between his mere pounama and tho heads of the vulgar pakehas who are pushing and struggling to obtain a front place, that makes us tremble for the consequences. But Paipai is a master of the art of wielding the mere pounama, and so has the happy knack of flourishing it just near enough to brush the flies off without taking the skin. The Luna was moored alongside the Government wharf, and very shortly afterwards Major Edwards, who had conducted the arrangements, came on board and informed his Excellency that everything was in readiness to receive him. The wharf was carpeted. On the right.-hand were drawn up the Wanganui Rifles, looking very soldier-like in their grey uniform with dark blue facings; on the other side were the Reception Committee and the militia officers. The Wanganui Cavalry were stationed in front of the Customs Store, and the Rangitikei and Marton Cavalry along the quay. The passengers by the Wanganui, numbering some ninety holiday seekers, landed at the Commercial Wharf, and the Wellington Volunteer Artillery, under Lieut Pilcher, landed their two guns in readiness to fire a salute. At this time there was a very large assemblage of people on the banks of tho river, and on every vantage ground commanding a view of the landing place. At about eleven o’clock his Excellency the Governor, accompanied by Lady Bowen, Miss Bowen, and Miss Zoe Bowen, stepped from tho steamer to the wharf, followed by bis Excellency’s suite. The Governor was met by the Chairman of the Town Board, Mr Francis Williamson, and the Reception Committee. Mr Williamson, having been introduced to his Excellency, read the following address : “ To his Excellency Sir George Ferguson Bowen, G.C.M.G., Governor and Com-mander-in-Chief in and over the Islands of New Zealand. “ We, the inhabitants of the town of Wanganui and of the surrounding districts, join in welcoming your Excellency to this part of the colony. We wish at the same time to express the obligation wo are under to your Excellency for having, at much personal inconvenience, consented to inaugurate the use of a great public work in which we are specially interested. “ That work, the Wanganui Bridge, united two of the most flourishing districts in the

North Island, and will assist in dovoloping the resources of both, as well as those of tho whole colony, by rendering communication more easy, and defence less difficult. “Such considerations cannot but occur to your Excellency when you contrast tho present state of things with that which existed in 1868. Then you visited a community reduced to the verge of ruin by a war in which, for a moment, barbarism seemed to havo triumphed over civilisation in one small corner of her Majesty’s dominion. “ Now you visit a people who, if not so prosperous as they might bo, enjoy tho blessings of peace and sincerity in the present, and look forward with hope and confidence to tho future. “ We are sure you Excellency will regard this occasion as one which derives its importance not only from the fact that an undertaking of no small magnitude lias been accomplished, but also because it is an earnest and an emblem of progress in that “ heroic work of colonisation,” in which we feel assured your Excellency and your advisers take tho warmest interest and do your utmost to promote. On our part we recognise the presence of her Majesty’s representative as typical of that eupi-emacy of law and order on which material progress so greatly depends. “As loyal subjects of the Queen, we desire to receive you in a manner befitting your official position, and to give your Excellency a hearty welcome as a private gentleman and a fellow colonist. " In conclusion, we beg to express the gratification afforded us by the presence of Lady Bowen, and wish you both long life and happiness.” When tho Governor stepped off tho boat, and during the reading of tho address, the Artillery fired a vice-regal salute. Tho address having been received by the Governor, lie read tbe following REPLY. “ Gentlemen,—l thank you for this loyal address, arid for the hearty welcome which it conveys to Lady Bowen and myself. “ This, gentlemen, is my third visit to Wanganui. I have not forgotten that in the address presented to me on the occasion of my first visit in November, 1868, you expressed your regret that I should have arrived among you at a time when a native insurrection was raging within a few miles of this town, and when your hearts were saddened by the loss of no inconsiderable number of your fellow-settlers, who had gallantly shed their blood in tho defence of the Throne and of their adopted country. Permit me now to congratulate you on the very striking improvement which has taken place in the condition and prospects of your town and district during the brief period of tbe last three years. In November, 1868, a formidable rebellion had broken out in your immediate neighborhood, and the rebels after devasting the whole country to the West, had advanced to within ten miles of your suburbs. “ Under these circumstances, and at tho Urgent request of the local magistrates and other principal inhabitants, I took the responsibility of transferring Hither the detachment of her Majesty’s troops which had been stationed at the seat of Government at Wellington. I also came among you myself, having been assured that my presence at that perilous crisis would prove of public advantage, especially in stimulating the zeal of your Maori allies ; who, indeed, headed by tho gallant TefKepa (Major Kemp) once moro took up arms at my call. “My second visit to Wanganui was in September, 1869, when I rode overland from this town to Patea. All pressing Hanger had then passed away, but there still existed a general feeling of insecurity. Now, on my third visit, I find that the wisdom and firmness of the Legislature, ably seconded by tho gallantry of our local forces, both European and native, and by the public spirit of tho population at large, have established what I trust will prove permanent tranquility and confidence. The settlements laid waste by the rebels have been re-occupied and extended ; and a public coach is now running from Wanganui to Taranaki, through tho country which a few years ago could not bo safely traversed even by a very largo force of Imperial and colonial troops. Tho facts to which I have referred are well known to all who now hear me ; but it seems expedient to place them on record for tho benefit of those at a distance who are deeply interested in tho welfare of New Zealand. “ In conclusion, gentlemen, I again thank you for tho cordial greeting with which you have received my family and myself; and I pray that the blessing of Providence on your energy and industry may secure the prosperity of Wanganui, one of the earliest and most interesting settlements in this colony, and of the rich and fertile districts which surround your town.” A really splendid turn-out provided by Mr Gordon, with two postillions, of which he wa3 one, was in readiness at tho end of the wharf, but the noise of the cannon and the general bustle caused one of the horses to become restive, and it plunged about, somewhat endangering the limbs of tho bystanders. Tho horses were brought to a proper sense of their duty, and Lady Bowen was about to take her seat in the carriage, when she was dissauded from doing so, and tbe vice-regal parly proceeded up Taupo Quay and Victoria Avenue to the Rutland Hotel. Lady Bowen was driven to the hotel by Mr M'Beth in his buggy. The procession having stopped at the Rutland Hotel, the volunteers were drawn up in the street in front. His Excellency, through Major Edwards, requested Major Turner to convey his warmest thanks to all the volunteers who had taken part in the proceedings, and to express the pleasure he felt at seeing such a body of troops, excellent in appearance, and evidently efficient in drill. This closed the proceedings of the reception,

DRAMATIC PERPORMANCE. In the evening there was an amateur dramatic performance in aid of the volunteer band funds, and at which his Excellency and suite, and a large number of those who had come up from Wellington, attended. The building was filled, and the audience was lavish in applause. The pieces played were the drama of “ North and South,” and the farce of “ The Thumping Legacy.” The performance was very successful, and highly creditable to the talent of Wanganui. A WORD ABOUT WANGANUI. And now for a word or two about Wanganui. Wanganui is a somewhat scattered but well laid out town, lying almost wholly on the right bank of the Wanganui River, from which it takes its name. The place was founded some thirty or more years ago, when the surrounding districts were infested by hordes of the most savage natives in New Zealand. It lies on a sandy flat, commanded by two low hills, on which stockades were erected by the Imperial troops. Wanganui was not always Wanganui. Once on a time a certain Lord Petre, who was a great man in his way, and owned many thousands of broad acres in New Zealand, condescendingly permitted the place to be called after him. Bub Petre’s town, or Petre, was not euphonious enough for the old settlers, and so these worthies, rejecting Lord Petre’s aristocratic patronage, went back to their old ways, and obstinately persisted in calling the place Wanganui. Indeed, they actually petitioned the Government to confer the name upon Wanganui in perpetuity, and it was done. Ever since that Lord Petre’s name is no longer heard in the land, and the place thereof shall know him no more. Wanganui is a pleasant place to look upon now. It is quiet, and homely, and industrious. Stretching away on all sides of it are pleasant green fields and cultivations. In its midst there are trim gardens. There are many very excellent buildings, principal amongst which may be mentioned the Court House recently erected, the Banks of New Zealand and New South Wales, several very neat churches, and many substantial business places and private residences. Along the river banks there are several good wharves, and I noticed a schooner and a steamer on the stocks. Altogether, Wanganui is a thriving, industrious, picturesque place that is well worth seeing. But the time was when Wanganui did not wear the same peaceful look as it now does. Not very long ago there were sounds of war in her very streets, and the whole place was a military camp. Ruin and desolation were cast upon thriving homesteads, the fruit of years of industry was destroyed, and the settler had to clutch his rifle and make a brave staud for hearth and home and dear life. Not only once has Wanganui been the scene of savage warfare, for time after time the settlers have been driven in, and the women and children forced to seek refuge in the stockades. That the place should have risen again, Phoenix like, after each blow, is undeniable proof of the pluck and energy of the Wanganui settlers, of their faith in the resources of the place, and their true Saxon attachment to home. Of course the traces of war have not wholly passed away. Grim-visaged war has not been quite able to smooth out all the wrinkles in his front. Truth to say the wrinkles have rather served as hiding places for remnants of bygone days. Chief amongst these remnants are the majors. Surely never was there such a place for majors as Wanganui. Go where you will you will meet a major; in fact, every house seems to beep its own particular major on the premises. “How d’ye do, majah!’ is the common form of salutation, and red waistcoat and gold lace prevails everywhere. Whence came all these majors, and all the scarlet vests and gold lace, is a puzzle to me; and where all these majors are to find commands is a greater puzzle still. Thinking over the subject I have hit upon an idea, which is an extraordinary thing for me. Why not sell these majors to some other country, that is in want of them, or let them out on hire at so much a year. But lam majored to death. I have been surfeited with majors until the article, in my estimation, has sunk down to the level of useless stock, like old iron. When I was introduced to the first major in Wanganui I felt flattered, when I grasped the hand of the second I was lost in admiration of his red nose, and began to think there was something military in my own appearance that attracted the peculiar favor of majors. When I made the acquaintance of a third it struck me that I was really becoming a distinguished man ; the fourth caused me some little apprehension ; the fifth set me wondering whether I hadn’t seen him before ; the sixth made me melancholy, and as they came pouring in in rapid succession, I gave up all hope of preserving any distinct idea of individuals, and regarded the whole affair as a mere review of majors passing before me. I can stand the smaller fry of captains and lieutenants, but I have been so worried by the majors that I have determined to steal away from the everlasting scarlet vest, gold laee, and clinking sword, and so pay “a tisit to putiki.”

Putiki is a native village of which much has been written in times past. It lies on a small flat stretching along the proper left bank of the river to the south-west of Wanganui. Passing through a rough gate, apparently designed for breaking people’s backs, we proceeded along a narrow track close to the river bank, across several chasms, and into a narrow street formed by two rows of Maori ivhares. Such houses! Sometimes the wails are surrounded with rough firewood, such as is sold everyday in Wellington, piled carelessly up to a convenient height, and surmounted by a thatchedroof. The height from floor toridgepolo rarely exceeded seven feet, and was generally much less. Bank vegetation, old mats, refuse of food, and rubbish blocked up the entrances to some of the whares and surrounded them. Dirty old Maori women and very dirty and

1 ragged Maori girls and boys stared at us as we passed along, or welcomed us with the usual “Tenakoe”! Now and again a toddling youngster, stumbling amongst the tattered ends of his garment, would scamper away and hide himself in a whare, and at times a full grown Maori came out holding his filthy blanket close about him, and passed away smoking a short pipe. Everywhere the whares were closely fenced in, the entrances being formed by a kind of style with blocks on either side to step upon. We went into one of the best of these whares where there were assembled some sixty men, warriors belonging to Major Kemp’s army as I learned. These sixty men live and have their being together in a house which is just large enough to afford them sleeping room side by side. It is a house built very neatly of reeds, with no windows or other ventilation except two small holes and a door, which are closed at night. Most of these warrioi’s smoke tobacco, and when they are in full blast and the apertures are closed the place must be a lively foretaste of another which shall be unmentionable. I noticed rifles about the posts and hung to the roof, and in one corner a sword, belonging, as I learned, to one of Major Kemp’s officer?. Leaving this whare we met Major Kemp, and were politely invited to visit his house, a weather-board structure built exactly as a European dwelling. We were received by Major Kemp’s sons, who ushered us into a neatly furnished parlor. Of course there would be bad taste in describing the exact ornaments and furniture of a gentleman’s house into which you are invited, but this is a case in which I may be allowed some license. The room there is i carpeted, is furnished with 100 table, chairs, and couch, the walls are hung with respectable pictures, and there is a piano. As to the pictures, there are two of Major Kemp himself: one representing him in the uniform of a major, in which he looks tolerably well, and another representing him in a mat in true Maori style, in which he looks noble and commanding. One of Major Kemp’s sons is anxious that we should favor him with a specimen of that musical skill which our appearance warrants him in supposing we possess. We decline modestly. Someone whispers that Victoria, more familiarly known as “ Vicky,” a daughter of Major Kemp’s, can play, and forthwith there is a numerous call for Victoria. She is bashful, and declines, and the persuasive powers of her husband, Kuwana Hunia, jun., are invoked. They are effectual, and the damsel blusbinglv makes her appearance. Wheu I say blushingly, I use the word not in a restricted sense. Thereupon, after shaking hands with the pakehas, Mrs Kuwana Hunia takes her seat at the piano, giggles, allows her fingers to wander carelessly over the keys, and gradually slides into a tune, which she plays several times over in a manner highly creditable to her. We are, of course, intensely delighted, and testify the fact, and Mrs Kuwana Hunia escapes amid a general shower of congratulations. Bidding a hearty good-bye to our kind friends, we visit another whare, and partake of bread and butter and tea, which some hospitable dames have prepared for us. And here let me say that, with all their faults, I know no more hospitable people under the sun than these same Maories of New Zealand. THE OPENING OP THE BRIDGE. This was the great day for Wanganui, a day that has been looked forward to for many months —a day on which the hopes of the Bridge Committee, and indeed of every inhabitant of the district, were to be happily consummated. The opening of a real bona fide bridge spanning the Wanganui has been the ideal for which successive committees have been appointed, who unfortunately, however, never passed beyond a chrysalis stale. The Wanganui Bridge is now an undoubted fact, the magnificent structure, as it was designated by his Excellency, joins two districts, second to none in the colony in great natural advantages ; the fertility of the soil being admitted and apparent in the number of well-cultivated homesteads which dot the country on both sides of the river. Although many of the I country people came into town on Tuesday to see the lauding of the Governor, yet a great number waited for the opening, as being the chief end and aim of their visit. From an early hour both equestrians and pedestrians, as well as every variety of vehicle, from the well-appointed buggy to the more humble dray, lined each of the roads leading into the town. Wanganui itself was early astir, and presented a pleasingandpicturesque sight. The crowds that jostled each other on the pathways contained a mixed assemblage ; gay uniforms of every variety of shade and trimmings enlivened the" more sober garments of the civilians, while the natives, of whom they were plenty in town, were attired in strange and fantastic costumes. Kawana Paipai was resplendent in a half military half civilian dress, and seemed to find intense amusement in brandishing his mere ponama, and stating his belief that everything was kapai ! Mete Kingi sported a pair of gold epaulettes, and carried a staff ornamented with feathers as a badge of authority. Kawana Hnnia presented a strik- , ing appearance, being attived in a Highland costume that had been presented to him by Messrs Kinnaird, the suppliers of the ironwork for the bridge, as a token of their appreciation of his services in persuading so many of his native friends to invest in the debentures of the bridge. We have reserved the description of Meiha Kepa (Major Kemp) to the last, as being the most worthy of the quartette. Kemp looked remarkably well; his military dress was neat, yet withal sufficiently attractive to satisfy the native craving for effect. He wore the State sword presented to him by her Most Gracious Majesty, and apparently felt, as he should be, proud of the gift. Profiting by the experience of the clouds of dust during the landing, the services of the fire brigade had been

called into requisition, and the roadways near the bridge were well watered. Shortly after ten o’clock, bugle dress calls were resounding in every quarter of the town, all the volunteers wendir.g their way to the rendezvous, the Mai’ket-square. Up to this time the weather was everything that could be desired, but a squall suddenly came on, pouring down for a few minutes a perfect deluge of rain, completely soaking the poor unfortunate volunteers who were drawn up on the square. When the worst was over, they were dismissed for a time to find shelter. As every cloud has a silver lining, the bright side of these that had already endeavoi’ed to damp the ardor of our gallant little army were soon shown to Wanganui, and old Sol peeping down, seemed to enquire if his services would be of any avail in remedying the damage done by the rain. The fall-in bugles soon sounded, and again were the troops drawn up, and after the order of procession had been arranged, they marched of along Ridgway street to the Rutland Hotel. Mr Gordon having provided fresh horses for his carriage, his Excellency, Lady Bowen and children, the Hon D. M'Lean, and Captains Pitt and Machell, A.D.C.’s, took their seats, and the procession started about 11.20 a.m. The grand stand erected by Messrs Anderson Brothers was extensively patronised, being crowded on every part. The windows of the bouses near the bridge were eagerly sought after, as affording a fair view of the proceedings, while the great mass of the people (it was a matter for wonder where they all came from) lined the Quay and footway of the bridge, and even assembled in groups on the hill above Campbelltown. Room for the pi’oeession was admirably kept by the police, under the command of Inspector Atclieson. The procession passed over the bridge in the following order : —• Wanganui Cavalry, twenty-four strong, under command of Major Nixon. Wanganui Veteran Volunteer Band. Marton Volunteer Band. Wanganui Drum and Fife Band. Marton Victoria Cavalry, thirty strong, Capt Willis. Rangitikei Cavalry, twenty-two strong, Capt P. j. Richardson. Aramoho Cavalry, twenty-nine strong, Capt E. Daniell. Alexandra Cavalry, fifteen strong, Lieut Twogood. Wanganui Veteran Volunteers, twenty-four strong, Capt W. Kells, Marton Cadet Corps, thirty strong, Captain Coleman. Militia Officers, seventeen strong. Governor’s Carriage. Turakina Cavalry, thirty-four strong, Capt W. T. Owen. Fire Brigade, with Star of Wanganui Engine. Bridge Committee. Reception Committee. The Wanganui Rifles, 50 strong, under the command of Captain Parkes, were stationed opposite the grand stand as a guard of honor. This corps attracted universal admiration by its soldierly appearance and efficiency. The Governor and Lady Bowen having alighted from their carriage, before proceeding over the Bridge, the latter was received upon the stand by Mrs Edwards, and conducted to a seat. Mr W. H. Watt, the Chairman of the Bridge Committee, then stepped forward, and presented an address similar in spirit to that presented to him on the occasion of the landing, to which his Excellency replied. THE GOVERNOR'S LEYEE. Shortly after two o’clock his Excellency held a levee in the Rutland Hotel. For about an hour a perfect stream of leveeists, poured into the room of the Rutland, all anxious to pay their devoirs to the representative of her Majesty. The urbane Captain Pitt, A.D.C. received the visitors and ushered them into the august presence of his Excellency, who, after receiving each with a kindly cordial greeting, made to such as were known to him by repute a few appropriate remarks. On the presentation of Captain Powell, Sir George referred to the gallant defence of the Weveroa pa by the Militia under the command of the Captain, and expressed his pleasure at meeting him. Captain Parke 3 and the officers Wanganui Rifles were complimented on the creditable appearance of their company. From the happy and complacent air with which each gentleman left the reception room, it must be gathered that his Excellency, in addition to implanting a feeling of earnest loyalty in the hearts of those honored by presentation, must also have added a few words of an especial pleasing character. The Hon D. M'Lean explained, on the advent of each native, his position. Amongst others, the following were presented : —Messrs C. O’Neill, MHR; A. de B. Brandon, MHR; C. Haughton, MHR; Charles J. Johnston ; his Honor the Superintendent, William Fitzherbert, MHR; the Provincial Secretary, H. Runny, MHR; the Provincial Solicitor, C. B. Borlase ; J. Millar, F S A ; J. G-. Holdsworth, Crown Lands Office ; J. Woodward, Sub-Treasurer ; George Crawford, Wellington; H. S. Wardell, EM, Wairarapa; Major Edwards, EM; R. W. Woon, RM; Thomas Waters, JP; W. H. Watt, J P ; H. M'Neill, Dr Ebbs, Dr Earle, Captain Sharp, Rev B. K. Taylor; Major Turner, Commanding the District; Lient-Colonel M'Donnell, Major Durie, Major Nixon ; Lieut T. Pilcher, Wellington Artillery; Messrs F. Williamson, Finnimore, Richards, Webb, Perston, M'Donald, Godwin, Marriott, M'Donough, Woon, Cash, Lomax, Lewis, Chavannes, F. R. Caffrey, T. Allan, G. H. Vennell, W. Lyon, and L. M'Donogli. LADY BOWEN’S LEYEE. Simultaneously with the levee held by her spouse, Lady Bowen received ladies of Wanganui in an upstairs room of the hotel. Her ladyship was exceedingly gracious, putting the most nervous maclame at ease by her kind greeting and a few pleasant remarks. It

would involve a much greater space than we have at our disposal to detail with the minuteness and correctness that the matter deserves, the elaborate toilettes of the ladies presented. Suffice it to say that they all looked and dressed charmingly. The following is a list of the cards left:—Mrs Edwards, Mrs Colonel M'Donnell, Mrs W. H. Watt, Mrs and Misses Imlay (2), Mrs Waters, Mrs Sharp, Mrs F. F. M'Donogh, Mrs A. R. Webb, Mrs and Miss Kells, Mrs Perston, Mrs S. M. Curl, Mrs Jos. Willeox, Mrs Perham, Mrs M'Donald, and Mrs Witchell. THE BALL. The Odd Fellows’ Hall had been most tastefully decorated for this the ladies own particular sphere of conquest. The walls were gaily festooned with flags and evergreens, while the stage was a marvel of ornamental work, surmounting a perfect triumph in the culinary art. On the arrival of his Excellency and Lady Bowen, shortly after 9 o’clock, dancing commenced, the Governor leading off Mrs Durie, Mr Thomas Powell with Lady Bowen, followed by Colonel St. John and Mrs Edwards. The following were present: — His Excellency Sir G. F. Bowen, G C M G, Lady Bowen, the Hon Donald M'Lean, his Honor the Superintendent and lady, Mr Fitzherbert, junior, Mrs Buckley, Major and Mrs Edwards, Major and Mrs Nixon, Mrs Gisborne, Major Turner, Miss Bridgeton, Miss Chain, Captain Pitt, ADC, Captain Machell, ADC, Captain and Mrs Russell, Mr and Mrs Pharazyn, and Misses Lomax (3), Major and Mrs Finnimore, Mr Brandon, Captain Forster, Mrs Durie and Misses Durie (3), Mrs Imlay and Misses Imlay (2), Mr W. H, Watt, Captain E. Daniell, Lieutenant R. A. and Mrs Daniell, Mr and Mrs L. Daniell, Mr James Durie, Mr Chax-les Durie, Colonel St John, Mr Crawford, Mr C. A. Haughton, M H R, Mr C. O’Neill, MHR, Miss O’Neill, Captain and Mrs Low, Captain Sharp, Dr Earle, Mr Thomas Poweil, Captain Powell, Colonel and Mrs M'Donnell, Mr and Mrs M‘Donogh, Captain Coleman, Mr and Mrs Harrison, senior, Mr and Mrs Harrison, junior, Mr H. A. Lomax, Miss Churton, Mr J. Fleetwood, Mr J. M. Fleetwood, Mr and Mrs Ross, Mrs Lewis, Mr John M'Donald, Miss M'Donald, Mr John W. Buller, Lieut Pilcher, Mr Harcourfc, Mrs King, Mr, Mrs, and Miss Williamson, Mr Johnson, Ensign Cooper, Mr and Mrs Wicksteed, Mr Bradford, Mr Fennell, ;Mr Douglass M'Lean, Mr Crampton, Mr J. G. Watt, Ensign Watt, Mr and Miss Robinson, Mr Carkeek, Mr Griffchs, Lieut and Mrs Witchell, Mr and Miss Alexander, Mrs Peat, Mr and Miss Perston, Mrs Willoughby, Miss Snow, Mr M'Neill, Mrs Flygei’, Mr J. Anderson, Mr Wardill, R.M , Mr and Mi-s Goodwin, Mr J. G. Woon, Miss Reimenscliendei’, Mr J. Max’slxall, Capt Broxigliton, Mr E. Campbell, Misses Campbell (2), Miss Anderson, Mr and Mrs Peak, Mrs Swainson, Mrs Cleary, Ensign Borlase, Mr Cas-h, Mrs Anderson, Mr L. M'Donogh, Mr W. Marshall, Major Kemp, Major Topia, Mete Kingi, wife and son. THE VOLUNTEERS. I may here say a word as to the appearance of the volunteers who formed the pi’oeession. No praise that I could bestow would do justice to the splendid efficiency and soldier-like bearing of these men, most of whom have fought in the field against Titokowaru and others, and have done excellent service. As they filed over the bridge they -were the subject of unanimous admiration, and my own opinion is there are few places in her Majesty’s dominions that could turn out so fine a body of men. THE BRIDGE. And now it seems right I should say a woi’d or two about the bridge itself,which has really caixsed all this display and ceremony and the somewhat tedious speeches printed. The following desci’iption ’ of the bridge has cost me no little trouble—to get. Mr Millar, F.SA., is the author of it, and, so far as my very small knowledge of bridge architecture goes, I am inclined to guarantee the description. Here it is : The bridge is situate upon a tidal river, the “ Wanganui ” (angiiee— long vjaiting), ebbing and flowing with that peaceful tranquility — emblematic of its Maori designation—owing to its almost land-locked position from the seaboard, some foxxr miles distant. Upon the bosom of its waters —upon the occasion of the viceregal visit—were sevei’al native canoes, each manned by twenty pair of nude Maori rowei’S ( i.e ., paddlers), stalwart fellows of dusky hue, several of whom were most artistically tatooed; one canoe, in particular, being under the guidance of an enthusiastic native Princess. The canoes glide along with a surprising l’apidity, astonishing to Europeans, keeping up (on this occasion) with the Luna war steamer. Of the bridge, as a work of engineering skill, it is sufficient to name its designer, George Robert Stephenson, Esq, late the President of the London Institution of Civil Engineer’s, to at once stamp it as the work of a master-mind in the modern science of iron bi’idge construction, a material comparatively new to such erections in the colony; and which is now rapidly superceding the use of stone, or timber, in the mother country, particularly for railway bridges and viaducts of large spans. Ibis bridge consists of five noble bays, averaging from 115 to 145 feet each in span, constructed of double pail’s of iron-box girders, placed longitudinally, and at a vertical distance fi’om each other of eight feet, having numerous double diagonal struts, stayed apart by internal ribs of the same material. The lower girders bear some ninety transverse girders, the whole being rivetted with countless rivets, showing an improved manipulation, in the handicraft of modern artificers in iron, work. Upon the transverse girders rest eight longitudinal beams of ironbark timber, regularly disposed over the width of the bridge, and running its entire length, bearing up

heavy flooring of totara of about four inches in thickness # The ordinary waggon way is 18 feet wide, in clear of girders, having a projecting footway for pedestrians upon the east side of five feet in width, supported upon bold wrought iron cantilevers, a continuation of the transverse girder beams. The outer projecting parapet is composed of a succession of panels in light rivetted lattice work, stayed by ornamental perforated trusses in cast iron of an exceedingly light description, quite in keeping with the general design of the whole structure. Preparation has thoughtfully been made for a similar footpath upon the west side, and which may be added at any subsequent period without disturbing the general structure, when the increase of population under the care of the present fostering Government may require additional accommodation. The entire superstructure rests upon a substructure of six pair of cast iron cylinders, each of seven feet in diameter, the circumference of twenty-two feet being formed by four segments each in seven and a half feet lengths, having vertical and horizontal flanges strongly bolted together in the ordinary way; the number of lengths in each pier being regulated by the varying depths of the requirements of the foundation of each separate pier; the lowest level of the cylinders ranging from twenty to thirty feet below the bed of the river in accordance with the nature of the strata passed through. The second bay from the north Bhore is constructed upon similar cylinders placed diagonally —so as to prevent as little obstruction as may be to the river’s flow—the whole being connected by strong wrought iron bracing, well rivetted; upon which is placed a turntable of twenty feet in diameter, revolving upon a series of large conical rollers, running upon radial shafts, the lower friction bed being of cast iron plates, upon which the whole bay, of 113 feet span, weighing upward of one hundred tons, revolves steadily by the comparatively infinitessimal labor of one man ; proving not only the original accuracy in preparation of the work at the London manufactory of Messrs Kennard, but also its nicely accurate fixing by the contractor here. This revolving span, when brought at right angles with the structure longitudinally, affords two ship channels, each of forty feet clear water way, either being amply sufficient to admit of the passage of coasting craft, or even intercolonial ships of moderate tonnage and draught up or down the river, it being navigable for about thirtv miles, f

The total length of the bridge, including approaches North and South, is somewhat about 800 feet. The site has been admirably chosen in a direct line with Victoria Avenue, which is the principle leading thoroughfare of Wanganui, in which street are situated all the principal banks and Chevanne’s Duke of Rutland Hotel. This bridge opens up a safe connection with a large and rich agricultural district upon the south side of the river, including Rangitikei, Manawatu, and the leading road to the city of Wellington, 130 miles distant. Northwards it also connects with the Mail Coach road to Patea, Waihi, and New Plymouth. This road will doubtless, ere long, be continued to Auckland as a main trunk line, mayhap of railway communication to the extremest north of the North Island of New Zealand. The whole of the cast and malleable iron work, including machinery, was prepared in London at the foundry works of Messrs Kennard, from drawings and specifications prepared by, and under the immmediute surveilance, of George Robert Stephenson, Esq., Civil Engineer, at the cost of about £15,000, including freight to the colony. The erection of the work was placed, under contract, in the bands of Mr Henry M'Neill, a colonial contractor, whom, it has been admitted upon all hands, has to his credit and practical management done every justice to the work that the designing engineer could desire, but also to the fullest satisfaction ot the Bridge Committee, the Provincial Government, as likewise the Colonial Government. The cost of erection, including the supply of the neccessary timber work, entirely of colonial growth, for the bridge proper, ' the extensive approaches and abutments north and south, will be somewhat under £15,000, the total being but £30,000 for a bridge which is a credit to the age, as well as conferring honor upon the Colonial Government, who have bad the wisdom and admirable foresight to sanction the construction of a work which not only reflects credit upon them collectively and individually during the present generation, but will hand down to the remotest posterity the names of Donald M'Lean, the Native Minister, and Dr Featherston, late Superintendent (now Colonial AgentGeneral in London), as also his Honor William Fitzherbert, Esq., the present Superintendent. THE LEVEE AND RECEPTION. As you have published an account of these events from the Wanganui papers, it is, of course, unnecessary to give you a separate one. THE BATE. The account of the ball published by you from the “ Herald” is meagre, I therefore append a more extended account. The event took place hi the Odd Fellows’ Hall, which had been very tastefully deco- * The central roadway should, as a matter of judicious economy, be either asphalted, or, as a substitute, sheeted with two inch diagonal flooring, the which, when worn out, may be removed and subsequently renewed, as traffic wears the surface, without disturbing the permanent structure. f Additional safety gates should be placed across the bridge upon both sides of the swinging span, to prevent the possibility of accident, which may perchance occur, from a mob of semi-wild cattle, or even ordinary vehicles attempting to cross while the ship passage is open.

rated for the occasion. His Excellency opened the ball with Mrs Durie, Mr T. Powell with Lady Bowen, and Colonel St John with Mrs Edwards. Dancing was kept up with great spirit until midnight, when the company repaired to the supper room. THE SUPPER. The supper room was a perfect marvel of artistic skill, and the table actually groaned (I believe that’s the usual phrase, though why a table should groan more than any other piece of furniture I am at a loss to conceive) — groaned beneath the weight of the choice viands piled upon it. Of course the bridge had its representative. There was a model of a bridge which had been designed by some ingenious person out of pasteboard. His Excellency the Governor, as the guest of the evening, sat on the right of Mr Powell, the Chairman, on whose left was Lady Bowen. Mr W. H. Watt occupied the vice chair. And now I wish to put it on record that all ball-suppers are a delusion aud a snare. Let. all the pastry-cooks, and confectioners, and fruiters in Christendom be called together to devise a supper —lay the four quarters of the globe under contribution for viands, and then I am prepared to predict, if the thing is at all a success, that the sapper is a huge failure and humbug into the bargain. Crushed in a space barely sufficient for an eel to wriggle in, with your energies concentrated upon a fossilized fowl or a patriarchal goose, bored on all sides with talk, your position is one of trial and suffering. The sherry is all brandy, and the brandy is all sherry ; everything is tough, the knives are saws, the people about you are vulgarly noisy and voracious, and you are disgusted. There you sit, with a profusion of dainty things before you, but alas! out of your reach. Whoever got a “ good square meal” at a ball, unless he happened to plant himself opposite a round of beef? And now, having eaten a small quantity of solid, and imbibed a large quantity of fluid, we are prepared to do justice to the speeches. The Chairman, Mr Powell, proposed the usual loyal toasts, which we drank enthusiastically, and then called upon the com pany to charge their glasses. He said the toast he now had to propose was that of their noble guest, the representative of her Majesty the Queen in New Zealand. The difference between Wanganui as it now was and as it was three years ago must strike everyone. Three years ago they were surrounded by a criminal and fanatic horde of foes thirsting to shed their blood. Now, through the wise counsels that had prevailed, peace and tranquility reigned throughout the country, and they found here, after coming 17,000 miles away from home, a climate unsurpassed in the world. (His Excellency : Hear, hear). And they only required to establish good communication to render the country one of the finest in the world. He would propose the health of their noble guest his Excellency Sir George Ferguson Bowen. The toast was drank amid loud and continued cheering. His Excellency the Goyernor said .- Mr Chairman, ladies, and gentlemen, I think my friend Mr Powell has discharged his duties admirably, as indeed he always does on every public occasion. He has twice received me on the occasion of my visiting Wanganui in the same cordial manner, and I beg to thank him and all present for the very hearty manner in which you have responded to the toast which he proposed. I am sincerely gratified on public grounds at the cordial greeting I have received from the people of Wanganui, and from their marks of respect which loyalty to our gracious Sovereign induces them to bestow upon me as her Majesty’s representative. (Cheers). It is also personally gratifying to Lady Bowen and me to find ourselves amongst you on all occasions, and particularly so on such an occasion as that which brought us here. (Cheers), The Chairman in the excellent remarks he made compared the present peaceful condition of this town and district with what it was three years ago. Then a formidable rebellion was raging in this district, and the sounds of firing might be heard where now the only martial sounds are the military music which was so well discoursed in your streets to-day, and the salutes fired with so much precision by the Wellington Volunteer'Artillery. (Cheers). We have inaugurated to-day a great and important public work; may it prove a never-failing source of permanent and increasing prosperity to Wanganui. (Loud cheers.) An old proverb says, “We should speak well of the bridge that carries us over.” The people of Wanganui, however, will, I am sure, place reliance not only in the material structures, but rather in their stout heart and strong arms as “ the bridge that will carry them over” in times of danger and difficulty. The poet has said that “ the proper study of mankind is man,” including, of course, in the term man, the better and fairer half of mankind — woman. (Loud cheers.) And so, whatever danger may again threaten Wanganui, whatever tide of fortune may ebb and flow, I am sure she will find in her fair daughters and her gallant sons “ a bridge that will carry her safely over.” (Loud cheers.) I beg to propose the toast of “Prosperity to Wanganui.” The toast was drank with loud cheers, and “ one cheer more for the bridge.” The Chairman : I ask yon now to fill your glasses. It must be a brimmer —no heel-taps this time. I am about to propose a toast which I am sure you will cordially respond to. It is “ Lady Bowen and the adies present.” The toast was enthusiastically drank. His Excellency : Mr Chairman, ladies, and gentlemen, on behalf of Lady Bowen I beg to thank you most sincerely for the very kind manner in which you drank her health. I am very much gratified by the feeling which the mention of her name always calls forth in New Zealand. (Cheers.) I can assure you that both Lady Bowen and myself have very

much enjoyed this visit to Wanganui, and we hope it will not be our last. (Loud cheers.) Ladv Bowen will always be happy to meet the ladies of Wanganui, and New Zealand generally, not only upon festive occasions like this, but in every work of benevolence and love. (Cheers.) The Chairman alluded to the galaxy of fair ladies who are now assembled here. In my position as Governor, my relationship towards the ladies is somewhat of a paternal character, and therefore I look upon the ladies of Wanganui as my daughters. (Laughter and cheers.) But among the young gentlemen present there are many who hope to form witli some of the ladies of Wanganui ties still nearer and dearer than those ot father and daughter : in the hands of one of these l leave the ladies with all confidence. After some other remarks his Excellency called a Mr Cooper to reply on behalf of the ladies present. Mr Cooper replied in appropriate terms, and referred to the presence of Lady Bowen as one ot the principal causes of the success attending the proceedings. His Excellency, too, was in every way a worthy representative of the Queen. Mr Cooper reminded those present that the bridge had not yet been christened, and ho thought a more graceful compliment could not be paid Lady Bowen than by calling the bridge after her. This would be recognising in a substantial way the advent of herladyship to Wanganui. (Cheers.) The Vice-Chairman (Mr W. H. Watt) could not let the occasion pass without referring to a matter that had not been touched upon. Thatday they had witnessed the consummation : of one of the greatest events in the history of Wanganui. The bridge was a monument to j the skill of those who had participated in its , erection. Upon the completion of a great public work like this, it was rendered incumbent upon everybody in Wanganui to cordially recognise the merits of those who had taken an active part in it. He was sure they would have pleasure in drinking the health of one who had materally assisted in securing the completion of the bridge. He would propose the health of his Honor the Superintendent, W. Fitzherbert, Esq. (Cheers.) Were he (Mr Watt) to place Mr Fitzherbert’s claims to their gratitude at a very high standard, his sincerity might be doubted, but he could look back upon the time—now nearly fifteen years ago —when the- bridge was first talked of. His friend Mr Fitzherbert long held a seat in the Provincial Council of Wellington, and he (Mr Watt) could bear testimony that on every occasion when the subject of the bridge was brought before the Council, Mr Fitzherbert had most cordially advocated it. Of what he had done during his term of office he must feel proud, and the importance of the Wanganui Bridge was proved by the presence of so many distinguished strangers. It was gratifying to find that Wanganui had attained the position it had in the estimation of the people of the province, and that on the opening of the bridge so many citizens of Wellington should be drawn together to witness it, and they ought not to let the occasion pass without thanking the Government for providing the Wellington Artillery with passages in the Luna. He attributed a great deal of the success that had attended the opening of the bridge to the presence of the Wellington Volunteer Artillery. He would conclude by proposing the health of his Honor the Superintendent. The toast was drank with three times three, and one cheer more; His Honor the Superintendent said : Mr Chairman, ladies, and gentlemen,—lt is with no ordinary feelings that I arise on the present occasion to offer you my thanks for the kind manner in which you have drank my health. I feel particularly obliged to my friend, Mr Watt, for the cordial way in which he expressed himself. When I was listening to him making that speech, and endeavoring to discharge what he stated to be a duty, and, need I say, a labor of love, I could not but be carried back to a long time ago, when, year after year, I heard that gentleman pertinaciously and earnestly advocating the interests of what —(laughter and cheers) —putting the accidental pun on one side —advocating the construction of this bridge. Sir, he seems to have made it the great object of his life to advance the interests of Wanganui, and what he has said to-night was simply a reiteration of what, for seventeen years, that gentleman has faithfully advocated on behalf of the inhabitants of Wanganui. (Cheers.) Through evil report and good report, through Maori alarms, through troubled days and through days of exultation, that honorable member has discharged his duty in as faithful a manner as ever representative did, in advocating the interests of this town of Wanganui. (Cheers.) And when we talk of singing poeans of praise for any particular merit, I know of no one to whom such praise is more justly due—with one exception—than my honorable friend who has just sat down. This day must be a proud day for Mr Watt, for to-day he realises the crowning effect of what he has done in the midst of troubles and trials. (Cheers.) Sir, I made one exception. It would be very unjust if we did not admit that there is honor due to others besides those who have been mentioned to-night. You have been pleased to drink my health as Superintendent; you could not have done less in ordinary decency (laughter), and I could not have done less than acknowledge it in decency—official decency—(laughter). But there is one to whom this community owes a debt of gratitude, and I trust that whenever the inhabitants of Wanganui go over that bridge, or whenever they look at the monument that graces your town, erected to the memory of those who fell fighting in our cause at Moutoa—l say let them not forget the name of a Superintendent—not my name, but that of my predecessor (loud and prolonged cheering). The efforts of Mr Watt have been humble in comparison with those proud, and high, and untiring efforts

of the late Superintendent, Dr Featherston (cheers), for if ever a settlement owed a deep debt of gratitude to one man more than another the settlement of Wanganui owes that debt of gratitude to Dr Featherston. | (Cheers). I cannot forget hisuntiring efforts for the good of this community. Dr Featherston, and I, as his coadjutor, fought the battle of this province through Maori difficulties and every other difficulty, (cheers), and Dr Featherston was faithful to this province through every difficulty. (Cheers). He never failed the people of this proyince, whether they may have failed him or nob. He got you the bridge, the province has to pay for it, and every six months I assure you that I regularly find that I have to pay the interest on the capital. (Hear, h&ir). I may now refer to the presence of Sir George and Lady Bowen. All praise and honor to them for coming here on such an occasion. So long as we pursue this course and find that the honest labors of Provincial Governments are graced and crowned by the presence of those at the head of the Government of the colony, and by the representative of her Majesty, I say that such I loyal and constitutional co-operation represents to my mind the most perfect type of government that can be devised. It is not by despising this form of government or the other that we shall accomplish peace, order, and j good government. (Hear, hear.) I thank you, I sir, and I thank the company here assembled for the honor they have done in drinking my | health, and referring in such kind terms to | the presence of my wife, and I commend to | their attention the few remarks I have made. : (Loud cheers). j The Vice-Chairman proposed the health lof the contractor, Mr M'Neill, who he said j had earned the character of a faithful conj tractor. During the long period of the con--1 struction of the bridge he never heard a 1 dispute between Mr M'Neill and any person j representing the Government. As one of the Bridge Committee he had frequently come into contact with the Government Surveyor, who said that Mr M'Niell was doing his work in as substantial and workmanlike a manner as any contractor in the colony. The number - of people here to-day was a testimonial shewing the appreciation in which Mr M'Neill’s character as a contractor was held. He would conclude by proposing the health of Mr M'Neill, the contractor. Song—“ For he’s a jolly good fellow.” Mr M'Neill replied as follows:—Mr Chairman, ladies, and gentlemen,—l beg to return you my sincere thanks for the very cordial manner in which you have drank my health: I feel gratified that my efforts to complete the contract in a workmanlike manner has given Buch general satisfaction to the Provincial Government, the Bridge Committee, and the inhabitants of Wanganui generally. lam not insensible to the fact that it had been prophesied by certain parties that I would never be able to complete the contract. The principal reason for holding that opinion being that Mr Kennard, when in Wanganui, had often stated it could not be built by any colonial contractor. I am happy to say it has been built by a colonial contractor with colonial workmen. I have been ten years contracting in New Zealand, and have carried out some of the most important and extensive works in both North and South Islands, and am proud to say I have always given entire satisfaction to every engineer; and the eevex-al governments by whom I have been employed. Mr Watt, in proposing my health, has told you of so many of my good qualities that I never knew I possessed until now. I am afraid if I say any more you will find out he has been flattering me. I will concludeby hoping I may be able to retain the good name I have earned and the good wishes you have expressed towards me. But lam sum the ladies would sooner be in the ball-room than hearing me talking any more twaddle about myself. (Cheers ) This hint was taken, and the dance resumed, while a second body of hungry ones fell upon the viands with vigor. Dancing was kept up with spirit until the morning rays peeping in through windows warned the jaded devotees of Terpsichore that it was time to return homewards. a visit to the natives. Having presided at the opening of the bridge, and at the other ceremonies in honor of the occasion, it was only right that his Excellency should pay a visit to the natives. On the 30th his Excellency, accompanied by Lady Bowen and suit, and the Hon D.M'Lean, landed at Putiki in one of the Luna’s boats, followed by other members of the party in a second boat from the same steamer. The party were received with the usual cries of welcome. They landed and visited Kemp’s whare kuni, and thence proceeded to Kemp’s house, where refreshments were provided by the chief. Shortly afterwards the natives assembled in front of the house, and performed a war dance and a haka. I shall not attempt to describe a war dance, or a haka, for the benefit of New Zealand readers, and a few words will be sufficient for those at a distance. Two ranks of half naked Maoris setting off the lines of a monotonous song with a wild cry something between a yell and a howl, and keeping time with hands, legs, heads, and eyes. Two ugly old creatures, something like women, making hideous faces, and turning their eyes almost inside out. Then a haka, in which the language is not choice, and every finger and muscle plays its part in a grand contortion of the body and features. A choice selection of satyrs and harpies stark mad —this is something like a Maori war dance and a haka. By-and-bye there are preparations for the korero. The Governor and his party take up their positions near the fence, the Europeans crowd closer, and the affair begins. Aperaniko addressed the Governor,saying : Salutations to both you aud Mr M'Lean. Return the prisoners of Ngatihine now at Otago to me, and I will take charge of them. Te Mawae : the Ngatihine pri-

Boners to me, as I was the person who took them ; do not give them to Ngatiawa. Kaavana Paipai delivered an address of welcome to his Excellency the Governor and the Hon. Mr M'Lean. PAOUAPouTiNisaid : Welcome the Governor and M'Lean ; salutations to you. Listen—return to me my people (Ngatiliitic). If you do not return these people to me, I shall not know whether you are my father or not. Return my people, so that I may know that they will remain here for the remainder of their days. Listen—l also . want the people to be returned to their land at Waitotara, viz., the Ngarauru. Salutations to you for coming to open the bridge. WiPakau: After this speech Wi Pakau, an influential blind chief from the interior, who had strong sympathies with the King party, recited an old song used only on important occasions, such as making a permanent peace Tahana Turoa : Welcome. Salutations to you. According to the words of our ancestors, you, the Europeans, are the elder branch of the Maori people. Salutations to you O Governor, welcome to Wanganui. I have been an evil man, and fought against you, but now I have obtained life in peace. Welcome. Come and listen to what we have to say. I agree with what has been said by the old man, by—Mawae, that the Ngatihine be returned to this place, Putiki, and let them bo placed in charge of the people who took them prisoners. You and Mawae fought on one side. I therefore again request that those people may be sent here. It is for you to consent. Mr M'Lean : The Governor said yesterday that he would have explained to you in Maori what he said yesterday in English. When the Governor has spoken I will say a few’ words. Mr Woon will translate the Governor’s address to you. Hakaraia Korako : Listen, 0 Governor. I have a word to say to both you and Mr M'Lean. You have come here and approved of that good work—the bridge. Your words of approval have been spoken in the presence of both Europeans and Maoris. I am now addressing you in the presence of Wanganui. My word to you is “ Horowhenua let that dispute be settled in tho same manner as you have settled matters about Wanganui. I have nothing to say about Ngatihine prisoners ; that is a matter which concerns Europeans and Maoris alike. My wish is that everything may goonas smoothly at Horowhenuaas it does here. I am a man of Horowhenua, and if trouble arises I shall go there. This is all I have to say. Salutations to you. Mr Woon here read the Governor’s address in Maori, in reply to that presented by Major Kemp on the previous day. Mete Kingi : Welcome, O Governor. Welcome to Wanganui. (Song of welcome, led by a man named Tahana, in which all joined ) There is nothing more to be said. Mr M'Lean : With reference to the release of prisoners at Otago, of which you have spoken, promise lias been made by the Government that this should bo done during the next month. When they are released it is not desirable that they should iimnediatelx return to this district. * It is first necessary that there should be a clear understanding with reference to land questions at Waitotara and elsewhere; that native reserves should bo accurately defined, as well as external boundaries, before any natives can return to that district which has so long been the scene of strife. Your own good sense will satisfy you of the necessity of having these outstanding questions settled before the prisoners are at liberty to move about as they think proper, or be in a position to create fresh differences ; therefore they are to come first to ■Wellington and its neighborhood. With reference to the Horowhenua dispute, I quite disapprove of the course taken by Wanganui in this matter. I say so openly before your face, so that there shall be no misunderstanding on Lite subject. There is no reason why this case should not be settled by arbitration. The people of Wanganui should live on their own river, and not think of going to Horowhenua ; it is best to leave that alone. This is not the only dispute which has been settled by a careful enquiry. The Wanganui people, including Kepa and lluniu, in hastily taking up this Horowhenua dispute, were wrong. This is the month of December, which inis been fixed for the investigation of this case, and I am anxious that it should be disposed of without delay, and in accord a use with the law. Mawae : Send Ngutiraukuwa away from Horowhenua to Otaki. Mr M'Lean : They are living there peaceably. Turoa : Listen, Mr M'Lean. What you have said about arranging matters about the land first is good. Do not. take these people anywhere else, but bring them here to live until some final settlement is arrived at. What you have said I perfectly agree with. Kepa (addressing the Governor), said : Do not take any notice of what these people of Wanganui have said to you. Do not bo vexed or annoyed at anything they have said to-day ; they are still of the same feeling as they have been all along, and they may say things to-day which perhaps they do not mean. _ They will adhere to the words of Hori Kingi (words of friendship towards the Europeans). We are the descendants of a people who have been accustomed to see Governors and Europeans. We have attended to your word which you sent to us from Wellington, and have always done what you approved 01. M hakaari and Bikurangi—(the meaning of this is that the tribes were all scattered, and in rebellion, but now they are gathered together and at peace). I have always followed these words, and am now rewarded by seeing peace around me. Topia and Turoa, who were opposed to the Government, u“e now on our side. I approve of your law for tho preservation of life. It is for tho Governor to make such laws as will benefit bpfh races, Wellington is only a

short distance from here, and therefore it should be easy to visit Wanganui more frequently ; and we should be glad also to see Lady Bowen. Before the bridge was built there was a division, but now there will be unity and concord. Do not think that the people of Wanganui will return to evil works. They will not do any such thing. We will make them respect the laws during our life. Other people may come and cause a disturb-, ance, which we may be unable to prevent Now, with respect to Horowhenua, the reason I did not come to any conclusion about it when I was in Wellington was because I was away from my people ; but uow we are all here and living under the law, therefore there is no fear of any disturbance. Let it be left for the law to decide, as we respect the law. That is all I have to say. We will not trouble you with any of our difficult questions, as we desire to accord you a welcome to the district. All tho hard questions which we have to speak of wo will discuss with Mr M'Lean. Topia : You have heard the welcome of the people. I also wish to welcome you personally. When I was at Wellington I told you that I would become a supporter of yours. There wa3 no reason why I should become so, seeing that my people were destroyed by you and their land taker, from them. I say to you —return both land and men, because there is nobody to occupy tho land. (Chant of lamentation for loss of relations and lands.) In former times this land Avas cultivated, but now it is lying waste. But I have now come forth amongst you and shall be saved, and those persons in distress will be released. I approve of these people being returned here. I said to you in Wellington that Horowhenua was a quarrel, and I did not know whether I should be involved or not. That is the reason that I have nothing to say about it on the present occasion. Many people of the tribe have spoken, and I am satisfied with Avhat they have said. Pehimana : Salutations to you 0 Governor, and salutations to you Mr M'Lean. Welcome to Wanganui. Return me to my settlement (song), return me to Waitotara. I wrote a letter to you asking you to sanction my return to my settlement; I also said in this letter that if you did not give me permission I would go without leave ; but consent to my return so that I may go there with good feelings towards you. I vvas a Hauhau and fought against the Queen, but Hori Kingi and the Governor asked me to renounce my works, and I rlid so. I Avas aftenvards a guide to General Chute when lie went from Wanganui to Taranaki, and fought against my own tribes, of whom I killed some. Mete Kingi : You have agreed that the Ngatihine should be released, consent also to llie return of Ngarauru to their lands. There is only one person who is likely to create a disturbance hereafter, and that is Te Whiti. If Mr M'Lean should require my services again in the event of a disturbance, I shall bo prepared to go and fight. Mr M'Lean : I cannot agree to what you now say about their returning to the Wailotora. I must have all difficulties settled first, and give this subject much greater eonsidera tion than I am able to do during such a short vii?it; as the present. Major Kemp : You have released the Ngatiporou prisoners Avhich I took only’ a short time ago, but these persons who are now asked for have been in confinement a much longer time, therefore I ask you to release them. Mr M'Lean : I shall be glad to see some of the chiefs, and talk such matters over with them, but cannot decide hastily. Three cheers Avere then given for the Governor and Mr M'Lean, after which tho proceedings terminated. THE CONCERT. There was a concert in the evening by the Philharmonic Society, which the Governor and Lady Bowen attended, and Avhich passed oil' satisfactorily. THE TRIP UP THE RIVER. A trip up the river Wanganui in canoes was an event full of attraction and interest. For it is not so very long since this river was infested by hordes of Hauhaus, when it was unsafe for Europeans to move even out of rifle range of the Wanganui stockades. Noav you may go peaceably up the river to Taupo, passing over the sites of many a bloody fray, and where many a white Avarrior sleeps the sleep that knows no waking. Where all was war there is now peace, where there was suspicion and hostility there is now friendliness and hospitality. About half-past eleven o’clock on the mornin"' of December Ist a'l Avas in readiness. Three large war canoes fully manned lay at the side of the quay, and in a few minutes a start was made. The canoes were manned by natives of the Ngalihana tribe. The largest canoe was manned by twenty-seven natives under the chiefs Mete Kingi, Pomn, Paul, and Toma. A convenient place in the canoe had been fitted up with seats, and covered with mats for the comfort of his Excellency the Governor, Lady Bowen, Miss Bowen, Mrs - Fitzhcrbcrt, Mrs Buckley, Captain Macho!!, .A.DC., and Mr Woon. R.M., as interpreter. The second canoe Avas manned by twenty two natives under the chief Mae, and contained Colonel M'Donnell, Mrs M'Donnell, and the singularly gifted individual who writes these lines—(the phrase generally i3 —“ your special,”—but the one I have used is more striking). In the third canoe, which was manned by nineteen natives under the leadership ofUtiku, Captain Pitt was left to his own reflections, with such solace as a pipe, varied by occasional exercise with the paddle, and a someAvhat precarious conversation Avith the natives could afford. The Governor’s canoe led t he van, and the others shortly followed, after Captain Pitt, the Commissionary-General for the expedition, had officially reported satisfactorily ot the m port ant department under his charge. Getting right out into the tide, the time oaute

for a spurt,- and soon the canoes were flying through the water, the paddles dipping simultaneously to the sound of the fugleman’s voice or the regular motion of his spear. The sight was really picturesque and animated, and cheer after cheer went up from the spectators croAvded along the Tight bank of the river. " To te to! to te to 1” Thus monotonous ly chants a chief standing in the middle of the largest cauoe, and tho paddles flash in the sun and disappear in tho water Avith the regularity of a pendulum, while th J oanoes shoot rapidly forward under the steerage of skilled pilots, who know every turn and current in the river. By-and-bye the song quickens, and the paddles work faster and faster, and anon comes the quick, excited song of “ Tupava, tupara, tupara.” Then there is work in earnest, and the water foams about the canoes. Paddling to the comparatively slow sounds of “ to te to” is gentle exercise compared with the dreadful strain of the “ Tupara.” I have tried paddling in an amateur way, and” succeeded admirably as regards the “ to te to,” but to the “ Tupava” I have a decided objection. While I tried it the canoe shipped a considerable quantity of water, and so, out of consideration for the safety of my fellow-passengers, I desisted. There is not much in the appearance of the river for some distance up. The banks are low’, ana the land apparently good, but the scenery is not striking. At Kennedy’s, a distance of some ten miles up from Wanganui, it begins to improve. This place was reached after an hour and a quarter’s pull, and here the steamers Wanganui and Pioneer, -Avhich had preceded us by a short distance, Avere at anchor. The Wanganui’s decks were literally ci’OAvded with passengers in holiday attire, and these soon disembarked and dispersed about the neighborhood iu search of suitable sites for picnics. There is some pretty scenery about Kennedy’s, including a glimpse of green hills and vales on the proper left bank with a Avide stretch of level land, principally pasture on the right bank, backed by hills, with a stockade on the most commanding position. Beer and food was provided for the natives, and it is sufficient to say they did justice to both. Anon, a fresh start, Avas made and as the canoes paddled away, cheers Avere given by the people on board the Wanganui and Pioneer, and those assembled on the bank. At 1.10 p.m. Ave reached Kaiwaiki, a partially wooded table land on the proper right bank of the river. Here it was that some time ago a party of seventy Hauhaus crossed the Wanganui and endeavored to persuade another party to join in an attempt to sack Wanganui. The little affair did not come off, however. If they had attempted to sack Wanganui, no doubt a goodly number of the attacking parly would have been bugged. The reader is expected to laugh here. At a small settlement on tho left bank a number of natives came out to welcome us, but somehow the affair broke down. There stood Te Ote, a distinguished tatooed rangatira, attired in mats of dubious hue. Poor To Ole was aghast at our arrival, and could not find words to express his feelings. Some of our natives said that he was so ashamed of his former connection with Titokowaru that when lie opened his mouth to welcome the Governor the words stuck in his throat. There is an improvement in the scenery here. The hills are scarred with the marks of land slips, which have torn away the vegetation in their descent, leaving alternate intervals of shrubbery and trees, amongst which the mahoe and the koromeko are most conspicuous. At half-past one avg landed on a cl over-covered slope, on the right bank, the site, as I was informed, of an old mission station. Here we are to picnic. I receive the announcement with some apprehension, fori have a lively, not to say painful, recollection of what these things generally are. I know what ic is to sit down under a wretched tree in the rain, on wet grass, Avit.h a lot ot woebegone Happy people vainly trying to conceal their misery. I know what it is to find the fowls double jointed, and the geese mere skeletons, the knives and corkscrews all forgotten, tho jellies all mixed up with salt, pepper, and mustard. I remember the toad stools gathered in mistake fGr mushrooms, the thistles and the brambles tearing one’s clothes and skin, the sunburnings, the horrible black-beetles, and the colds in the head, and I eschew picnics, unless accompanied Avith the proper concommitant of kiss in the ring, and a fair amount of flirting. So here I am watching this picnic with fear and trembling. But what is this. There is a table cloth smoothly spread outon the grass, and aluxurious display of all the delicacies of the season, with a pleasant assemblage of bottles, and all the appurtenances of a feast, and the sun is shining down in full glow upon the scene, and there is no wet grass. Well, a picnic properly conducted is not at all a bad sort of thing, and let us inwardly feel grateful to the Commissariat Department, and Commissary General Pitt, and last, but not least, W hiteman, his Excellency’s attendant. Our friends the Maories, sitting on a rising ground, watch the progress of the picnic with deep interest. . We left Kaiwaiki at 2.15 p m., after a most successful picnic. After leaving this place the hills become more abrupt, with large land slips and outcrops of limestone. We reached the settlement of Kohiti at about 3 o’clock. Here a very beautiful view is suddenly disclosed. At a quarter past three we reached Raurakia. The scenery for some distance had been of the most beautiful description. The hill sides were densely clothed with shrubbery and foliage, in which hundreds and thousands of tints were blended, and contrasted in a manner indescribably picturesque and attractive. You could never tire of looking upon it, and every glanGe disci ssed some new beauty. Hove snd there ft group of handsome s&vaka

or fern trees, and the whole scene constantly shifting like a grand panorama. At Raurakia there are native houses on both sides of the river, and as the canoes glided onward we were greeted Avith calls of welcome from natives on the banks. Whenever we approach a settlement I notice that tho canoes are paddled faster. The song becomes more animated, and ever and'anon the natives give out a sound between a cough and a sneeze. It is somelike etcharanu , the first syllable being uttered with half a sneeze. I practised it for some time, and was fain to confess that it was beyond mo. Colonel M'Donnell, however, sneezed through it with immense success, and rather seemed to like it. At Potakataka avq had a race. The canoe in which were the vice regal party chanced to prefer the opposite bank of the river to ours, and our steersman being apparently bettor acquainted Avith the prevailing currents, the other canoe was left a little distance behind. Then they tried to catch us, and an exciting race took place, which terminated in a dead heat. At Knnihinihi I saw the first chimney since leaving Kennedy’s. I need not have asked the natives whether the dwelling Avas that of a European; tho neat patch of cultivation in front would have told mo that. Hereabouts the channel of the river is over a hundred feet deep, and the banks on either side slope precipitately. CAMPING OUT. We reached Purakino at 5.30. The settle* menfc stands on a rising ground, and in its midst could be descried the ruins of a redoubt, originally erected by the Wanganui Rangers, and once occupied by a detachment of the 57th Regiment. Such a scene ensues as we approach the settlement. There is a confused crowd upon the hill side, shouting and waving garments, firing guns, and there is hilarious excitement everywhere. Presently there is a movement amongst the crowd, as two or three run off’ to meet the canoe, and this is followed by a rush lielter-skeltek of the whole population of the village. The natives in the canoes strike up a song, the burden of which is—- “ Here comes the Governor ; We have dragged him up here.” Wo land, and ascending the bank proceed towards the pa, scattering tenakoes about in the most lavish manner. Our appearance causes utter consternation amongst the dogs and pigs. The latter, roused from their afternoon siesta, grunt indignantly as they scamper away, and the dogs, poor curs, give a miserable bark, and hobble off as well as their emaciated condition will admit of. The Maori dog as a natural curiosity. As an anatomical study he is not to bo surpassed. The man in the Orpheus 0. Kerr Papers —whose horse, my boy, was an architectural study, and who used to derivqa precarious income from lending the animal as a model for churches —Avould have stood no chance whatever against a Maori dog. But I am digressing. We A’isit (he ibhare puni and inspect the carved image of a distinguished tup ana (ancestor) Avho passes his time in supporting the ridgepole of the whare. He re* joicod in the name of Tnrawhiro. In reply to questions, the natives inform us that the figure is a striking likeness of the old chief. In that case I fool bound to say that had the illustrious Tarawhiro lived in these days his face would be a sure recommendation for a hanging. The village of Parakino consists of a number of tumble-down whares, built in utter contempt of architecture, and arranged without regard to order. The fences are in disrepair, and the Avliole place savors of squalidness and dirt. When avg return to tho encampment we find four bell tents pitched on a pleasant green well shaded spot. The cloth is again spread on the grass, and Ave partake of an openair tea, AA’itli sharpened appetites, as the night shades are closing in. Anon a fire is kindled in front, of the tents, the native women form a fine, an ! a liaka is performed, some of our oartv holding up candles to increase the Iffiht of ill 3 fire. Here i 3 a scene for a painter. Some twenty native women, some of them tolerably good-looking, keeping time to a song, and now and again making a hoarse, gutteral sound from the chest, while their fingers and arms quiver, or are drawn backward and forAvarJ with a spasmodic action, and the eyes are rolled up till the Avhites only are visible. AN OPEN AIR CONCERT. After this we assemble in the tent allotted to his Excellency the Governor and family, and Lady Bowen suggests singing. But first comes a long oration irons General -Mete Kingi, whose edifying discourse is cut short by a chorus. Despite that most of us were unused to camping out, there could be few happier parties than avo were. Song after song was sung, the oldest and most familiar ditties were revived for the occasion, and the members of the party vied with each ether in their desire to please. Lady Bowen and Miss Bowen contributed their quota towards the stock of enjoyment, and I Hope I shall not be suspected of Jenkinism if I mention a simple fact here that may not be generally known, namely, that Lady Bowen possesses a voice rarely surpassed for high cultivation and natural beauty. Indeed, bad it not been ioi this the little impromptu concert would undoubtedly have been a failure, and had it not been for the company of Lady Bowen and the other ladies of the party, the excursion itself Avould have been comparatively tame and commonplace. It was the pluck of these ladies, and their kindly good humor, that made the trip a pleasant one. The majority of the party Avere tired, and slept soundly. But some dreamed, and saw visions of pigs and dogs. The ladies breakfasted under umbrellas, in a drizzling rain, but seemed to enjoy it for afi that. A VISIT TO ATHENS. At seven o’clock a start was mace, and we proceeded further up the river. The country on the banks of the river becomes more wooded: Dense masses of foliage coyer the

elopes from the water’s edge, the karaka, kowhai, tawa, and other native trees being conspicuous amongst an immense variety ot other native vegetation, enlivened by the wild convolvolus or the bloom of the manuka. Xhe highest point for a considerable distance up is Taupiri, a conical forest-clad hill, which is visible from the sea. . At nine o’clock we are on classic ground. Leaving a stretch of level cultivated land on our” left we pas 3 on into a picturesque amphitheatre of hills, and we enter Athens at full speed. Such a scene of loveliness is rarely equalled even in this land of surpassing beauty. The banks of the river clothed to the waters edge witli a profusion of bright ferns, the toe toe # hanging down like fringe, over masses of verdant moss. Under a bold wooded bill the little village of Athens nestles snugly in the midst of willow and fruit trees. On the left there is a wooded precipice _ several hundred feet in height, and to the right the eymetrical forest clad cone of Taupiri towering above all, with undulating hills round about it, the shade of the valley contrasting very beautifully with the sunlight slopes. In the midst of all the river, all but hidden by a sudden bend, looks like a placid lake. The bands who land from the canoes scatter themselves over a sandspit formed by floods in the river, and add to the pictuvesqueness of the scene. However classical this Athens may appear at a distance, it changes very much upon a closer inspection. The village, in fact, like most of the villages in this part of the country, being dirty, squalid, and irregular. nOMEWAIID BOUND. We lb ft Athens at a quarter to ten, and with the current in our favor the canoes glided down the river rapidly. On the way there were several races, in one of which the canoe containing the Governor’s party beat the smaller one in wdiich was Captain Pitt. Wherever the canoes came to a rapid they went down the river at an astonishing rate. 1 am told approaching in some instances to twelve miles an hour. Where the river is at all shallow the natives use poles to propel the canoes, and you may see thousand of holes worn by this means in the banks of the river composed of hard sandstone. At one spot I noticed near the water’s' edge a bank of oysters, though the river is a fresh water one for all hut a very short distance from its mouth. In an hour and a quarter we were at Parakino, where we stayed a short time for refreshment. There a short time was given over to recreation. Captain Machell distinguished himself by jumping a great height with a pole, to the discomfiture of some natives who endeavorod to accomplish a similar feat. Lady Bowen literally “ astonished the natives” with some graceful string puzzles. It was amusing to see the natives earnestly watching her ladyship’s nimble fingers, afterwards attempting to copy the tricks, and to hear their expression of surprise when they failed. Presently there were little knots of natives in all directions, busily practising with strings, and entangling their fingers in every imaginable way. Captain Pitt turned a man’s vest inside out without removing his coat, and another of our party put a poor little native boy in fear and trembling by passing a loop under his clothes and out at the leg of his trousers. We left Parakino at twenty minutes to twelve, taking a live pig with us which had been presented to the Governor. After another cauoo race on the way, we landed at Potakataka, picnicked and decorated our heads with the feathery stalks of the toe-toe. Here Lady Bowen, at the request of the natives, christened the large canoe after herself, breaking a bottle over the nose of it. The canoe formerly belonged to a chief of high rank, who was killed at Taranaki, and it afterwards fell into the hands of the Hauhaus. It was originally called Te Karauga. We reached Kennedy’s at 5 p.m , where the natives were refreshed with beer and biscuit, and leaving a quarter of an hour later, reached Wanganui at about 6 p.m, after one of the pleasantest excursions it has been my good fortune fco participate in.