READERS' PROBLEMS:

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXVII, Issue 23767, 21 September 1940, Page 5 (Supplement)

READERS' PROBLEMS:

Some Queries Answered

Identification of Orange.—Will you please let me know the name of the orange enclosed, and the cause of the pith in the centre? — "Orange," Te Aroha. Washington Navel. The thickness of the white pith is due to the coldness of the climate.

Fertiliser for Strawberries. —I would like to know the best manure to apply to strawberries •at the present stage?—"lnquirer," Hikurangi. " Four parts superphosphate, three parts sulphate of potash and one part of sulphate of ammonia at the rate of half a pound per square yard. Moss on Chip Court. —I have a chip court, and for the last three years, after each winter, a lot of moss has formed all over it to a depth of about one inch. We have lifted this with a hoe but it makes the surface uneven. Is there a remedy? Would lime spread over the surface kill the moss or would spent oxide do? What could I do at the end of each season to Btop the moss from growing?—" Perplexed," Manurewa.

The court is evidently badly drained and this alone would encourage the moss. A good coating of spent oxide at the end of each season would prevent the moss from growing, but if you can arrange to drain the area it will be all the better.

Leek Planting.—l would like your advice on planting leeks. When would be tho best time to plant and what would happen if I planted them at tho present time? What kind of manure and variety of leeks would you advise mo to use?—"lluatoki," Taneatua. Seed of leeks should bo sown now and the plants can be put out as soon as large enough. Plants put in now would probably bo from seed sown in tho autumn and would go to seed very quickly. Leeks are gross feeders and enjoy plenty of animal manures of any kind, dug into the soil when preparing the bed. Blood and bone at four ounces per square yard will suit if animal manures are unobtainable. When planting, make holes with a crowbar or a stout stake about nine inches deep and nine inches apart. Drop one plant in each, hole, give a littlo water and leavo the plants to grow up out of tho holes, which will gradually fill in themselves. A good longth of blanched 6tcm is then secured without the trouble of moulding up.

I New Ground. —I am making a garden on now ground. I>o you think gladioli would do well? Would you Ipt mo know how to treat tho beds? In tho past my runner beans have mado a great deal of foliago and not many beans. What would bo tho cause? Your instructions at all times havo been most helpful.—"lgnorant," Piako. Tho gladioli shonld do well if tho soil is deeply dug and decayed manuro dug into tho bottom spit where it will not come into immediato contact with the corms. If tho soil is heavy plant at three inches deep. In light soil the corms can bo four to five inches deep. ■To secure more flower on tho bean plants, apply more phosphate in the form of superphosphate as top dressings when the beans aro growing. Creosote for Seed Tray#.—(l) Would creosote be suitable for preserving seed trays or do you know of a better method? (2) Tne method, to adopt for saving tomato seeds: tho fruit to select and the treatment? (3) would it be satisfactory to grow freesias in boxes in a glasshouse for early flowers? Pleaso advise tho depth of boxes and the best method to adopt, also the time to plant. Would it be better to sow the 6eedn or purchase the bulbs? —T.P., Hamilton East.

(1) Creosote is not suitable for seed travs. When placed in a glasshouse or framo {ho fumes are drawn out by the heat and will bo injurious to the plants. A hotter way is to soak tho timber, before making up tho boxes, in a strong solution of Milestone for several hours. ('2) Select good typical shaped tomatoes from a good cropping plant which has all tho characteristics you desire. Allow, the fruit to become dead ripe on a sunny shelf, then cut open and scoop out tho pulp into a tin half full of water. Allow to stand for a day or so until tho liquid starts to ferment, 'then wash and strain through a fine sieve. Lay tho seeds on sheets of glass to dry. Quick drying is essential. Before .the seeds are quito dry, rub "well In fl»*hand9 to TJreveni ttfcMng

together. When dry store in packets or bags until required. (3) The freesias would bo quite satisfactory under glass, and the bulbs would give you better and more flowers in the first year than seeds. The boxes should be at least four Inches deep, Eve would be better. Place a layer of well decayed cow manure on the bottom and fill with a loamy compost containing somo sand. Plant the bulbs in January two inches apart with the tips just below the soil/ Stand in a cool place out of direct sun until the. autumn when they can be taken into the frame or glasshouse. When the flower spikes show, give weak liquid manure once or twice a week.

Identification of Weed.—Would you identify enclosed weed and suggest treatment for killing it?; —"Weed," Gordonton. Wild carrot. Prevention of seeding and topdressing to encourage the grass will usually reduce the weed to small proportions. If the land can be ploughed, a crop of roots will clean out the weed. - Eradicating Bulbs.—Could you advise how to eradicate a wild bulb resembling a gladioli, frequently seen growing in wasto places?—" Bulb." Whangaroi. The bulb referred to is probably tho wild watsonia. This weed is difficult to control as it propagates by means of cormlcts on

the stems as well as round the parent corm. Persistent spraying with "sodium chlorato as soon as tho plants show through the ground will gradually destroy it. No plant can withstand constant defoliation. Where the area is not large digging out is tho best way. Identification of Weed.—Enclosing sample of loaf found in tho garden, for identification. "Stan," Huntly West. Cnicus b'onedictus, Holy or Blessed Thistlo Diseased Leaves.—l am onclosing two specimens of leaves from a Moyer lemon and a feijoa and would bo grateful for your advice on tho troatmont of tho diseases? —E.M.R,. Kawakawa.

The lemon is affected by verrucosis. Spray at intorvals with Bordeaux powder quo ounce to each gallon of water. The foijoa is infested with scale and the bost remedy would be to spray with whito oil ono part in 33 parts of water. Both trees would bonoßt by an application of sulphate of ammonia. Argentine Poa.—l have sown Argontine peas, some in tho open ground and some in boxes. (1) "Which is tho hotter method ? (2) Whon will they bloom? (3) Will they survive in such a climato as Marnaku whoro the wintors are severe? (4) Will mlmulus do here in tho cold climate?—F.H., Mamaku. (1) Sood boxes are the bottor method, planting out the soodlings when largo enough. (2) Depends on tho growth mado, but in any case no blooms can bo expected until a year or moro from sowing. (3) Yes, if some slight protection is given in winter. A light screen 1 of manuka will koop off a lot of frost. Put tho plants in a warm sunny position. (4) Yes, mimulus is qulto hardy. Periwinklo Post.—Poriwiokle is a great post in my garden. What effect would sodium ehlorato have upon othor plants? If the grass wero killed, how long would the effects last? Could I safely use it along a holly hedgo and around poplar troes and a number of native trees? Could tho sodium ehlorato be appliod from an ordinary watering can? (2) Tho holly hedge is diseased in places and seems to be dying out. Could you suggest anything which might liolp it?—"lnterested," Wnverley. (1) The best way to use tho sodium ehlorato in your caso would bo to apply dry, with lime, in the proportion of ono part sodium chlorate to six paitß of lime. Frequont dustings with this should chock tho poriwinklo, but it will also kill grass and othor greon vegetation, but should not harm tho trees to any extent. Tho effects should last for eovnral months. (2) Tho holly hedgo is probably starved. A good application of blood and bono at tho rate of four ouncos por squaro yard forked in along both sidos of tho hedgo will do moro good than all the sprays. The holly does not break vory frcoly whon cut back hard and this plan would not bft advisable until there is more strength to" tho growth.

Leaf-eating Insects.—Could s'ou advise me as to the trouble with leaves enclosed? I have sprayed with arsenate of lead and also limo sulphur but have not been able to clean up the trouble. Have examined quite often but have not seen any sign of any insect? The other specimen has been eaten also.' Is this Choisya ternata?—"Feijoa," TJahangi. The trouble is leaf roller caterpillar. This pest is difficult to control owing to the habjit of rolling the leaves together whore the spray cannot reach them. By continuing the arsenato of lead spray or pinching the rolled up leaves between finger and thumb the pests can be killed. Choisya ternata usually flowers well if it is net pruned. The feijoa lacks nitrogen and an application of sulphate of ammonia will improve it.