FASHION CONTRASTS

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXV, Issue 23083, 7 July 1938, Page 5

FASHION CONTRASTS

BY BAKBAIIa

NOVEL DRESS PARADE COSTUMES OF ALL TYPES SEQUIN TRIMMING POPULAR

LONDON, June IS 1 went recently to a most novel and interesting parade held at Dorchester House. "Fashion Contrasts" it was called—and contrast it certainly provided. We were shown costumes of all types, beginning with the very early 19th century, and including modern models by Stiebel, Hartnell, Worth and Reville. Each "period piece" was shown with its appropriate accessories. Some were extremely elaborate. There were crinolines which necessitated as many as five different petticoats. But the strangest of all were the frocks of the late 1920's —surely the most hideous fashion that woman has ever had to wear. A Royal Guest The Duchess of Gloucester was present, looking extremely charming in a navy bjue ensemble. Over the navy crepe frock, which had a siinray pleated skirt, she wore a navy redingote outlined with narrow grosgrain ribbon binding in a bright shade of "shocking" pink. Shocking pink also trimmed her navy hat, and on one lapel she wore a huge pink rose Also 'present was Lady Waleran, the beautiful wife of Lord Waleran, whom you will remember when be was on the staff of Sir Charles Fergusson, then Governor-General of New Zealand Lady Waleran was one of the vicechairwomen of the parade. Her fair head was offset by a smart black beret, and she wore a plain black wool coatunder her luxurious silver fox furs.

Perhaps the most noticeable contrast was that shown between the walking and sports costumes of to-day and yesterday. Voluminous skirts and bustles prevented the Victorian girl from venturing far afield on her morning stroll. Even in the nineties, tennis players were hampered by tight waists and long skirts, and bathing costumes of extraordinary "bloomer" cut came almost to the ankle and had long sleeves into the bargain. My sketches show you two of the modern walking costumes that were displayed. On the left 1 have drawn

! a plain grey flannel coat with a clever I moulded cut, seamed to give accent to j the waist, with attention also drawn ' to the hips by the addition of amusi ing tiered pockets. A severe neckline i and a zip that reached to well below i the hipline and made the whole fit like |.a glove were features of a coat that could be worn anywhere over praetiej allv any kind of frock. , Heal man's suiting was tailored to j make the costume sketched. You will | notice its high winged revers and the I new longer jacket. Double seaming and I a mannish pocket flap gave extra in- ; terest to a very practical and becoming I suit. | One of the loveliest frocks in the j parade was a modern evening dress by I Hartnell. Worn by a tall, slender brunette, it was made from heavy silk jersey in a deep rust shade, and was intricately cut and draped in the front to cling closely to the figure. With this frock, which had a detachable wing-like cape trailing almost to the ground at the back, went a manystranded Oriental necklace of heavy gold beads. Sequin Trimmed Frocks Coloured sequin embroidery was a feature of several of the modern evening gowns. Hartnell triumphed in a deep royal blue crepe frock of slender cut, which had a high-cut decolletage exquisitely embroidered in sequins - of blue and cerise to match its deep sequin-trimmed corselet belt. Over the gown went a cerise wool coat of fingertip length heavily embroidered on the sleeves and on either front with blue sequins. Hartnell again played the sequin theme in his sophisticated bridal frock. Cut very close to the figure, high at the neck and with long slender sleeves, if spread into a fan-shaped train that was ' one with the frock at the. back. The material was heavy white lace, its exquisite pattern re-encrusted with crystal. pearl and mother-of-pearl sequins. A halo of pearls held the voluminous white tulle veil in place. It was interesting to note the different veil arrangements through the years, and also similarity of some of the Inter Victorian dresses with the present day cnes. Of one of the bridal gowns of the late fifties, a touching storv was told. An intricate affair of finely tucked and embroidered white net, it was made with great pains by the young lady who was to wear it. Her fond parents, however, on the vcrv eve of the wedding, quarrelled with her fiance and forbade the marriage. Whereupon the bride went into a, decline which lasted for seven years, when her worried parents lifted the ban and she married in her self-made dross —already seven years out-of-date —and lived to have 13 children and an unhappy married life!