TAILORED SUITS

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXV, Issue 23057, 7 June 1938, Page 4

TAILORED SUITS

COLOUR COMBINATIONS VARIEGATED ACCESSORIES e \yiNTER JERSEY POPULAR BY BARBARA ' LONDON, April 6 There is a refreshing casualness about the Intest suits. Easy of cut and fit, they no longer reveal every lino and curve with such startling accuracy. Jackets are loosish and even blouscd. Skirts flare from narrow waists to wide hems or boast nil array of pleats, both knifo and box. Yet these suits are in no senso sloppy. They are trim where it is necessary to bo trim —at the waist, shoulders and hips—• and casual where it is smart to bo casual —in the easy fit of the jacket tops, the swing of the skirt and the set of the basque. Colour is their most remarkable attribute. Almost always more than two colours are combined in a single outfit. If the suit material itself does not achieve this by way of fancy weave plaids, knobbled multi-coloured surfaces, contrasting single stripes, herringbone weaves or scattered hairy surfaces, then the way in which its accessories aro mixed does. Seldom do we see accessories of a single colour. The faultless matching of other seasons seems dull beside today's inspired mixed palette. A Burgundy blouse, blue suit, yellow gloves and green shoes are a most probable success. Add a burgundy bag and a multi-coloured scarf and it is even better! But do not imagine that the choice of accessories can bo in any measure haphazard. These correlating contrasts are chosen with oven greater care than an exact match viould bo. However unstudied your finished appearance, careful thought must go into the initial selection of its every component part. One of the easiest and most effective methods of achieving this sought-after casualness is by contrasting jacket with skirt. This is done in a tremendous number of the new suits. You will see one in. my sketch. Here a loosely _ fitting plaid tweed jacket in delicious blues, mauves, greens and slate greys tops a plain inquvish skirt that is cut in nine flaring gores. Do not think that a suit such as this does not require expert tailoring. The looseness of its fit and naturalness of its line are every bit as difficult to achieve as the most wallpaper silhouette. My other sketch illustrates on« of the new jersey suits that are such an overwhelming success this year. The fabric of winter jersey has continued into spring still at tho top of the tree. Ingenuity has been used in varying its weave. Most versatile of fabrics, jersey adapts itself to any hour and

any mood. Hero we see a thickish jersey fabric that looks almost handknitted fashioned into a delightful informal suit that would look equally well in either town or country. You will notice the clever jacket seaming and the ensj' shoulder fit. One colour -here is a light vibrant tali, and the scarf tucked into the neck is yellow tiesilk patterned in scarlet and green. Green gloves and a green hat with tan ribbon and veil complete a distinguished ensemble. The veil on the hat' it worthy of note —it is a long time since wo wore veils other than the evening, but this year you will see them at lunch time and even for mornings in town. Although tho majority of contrasting jackets and skirts have a_ plaid or striped jacket with a plain skirt, there are quite a number of equally successful suits in which two plain colours contrast. Black tweed —a particularly dense black, often with a hairy surface that is almost silky—is used for innumerable skirts in town suits. Over tho black, bluo of every shade; —turquoise, petrel, saxe and hyacinth—pastel pink, yellow, verdigris green and petunia make gay and attractive jackets. Most often extremely simple in cut, these jackets may, if your figuro is trim, reach just to the hips. They are nearly always bcltloss. Clever seaming moulds them to the figure and inset pockets, sometimes with decorative flaps, accent bust and hips. It is smart to have as many of those pockets as can be crammed on to one jacket top. ! Creed puts four on either sfde of a tobacco twoed suit and Dourvillo put six on a grey flannel tailleur.