Housing of Chrysanthemums

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXV, Issue 23009, 9 April 1938, Page 10 (Supplement)

Housing of Chrysanthemums

Treatment of Plants for Best Results

TT is usually wise, in districts subject to frosts, to have the large specimen chrysanthemums safely housed by the first week in April. The latest' plants to bloom and those most backward in development can be left until the last, but, even in their case, some light protection from weather conditions is necessary. Taking the plants in is not a job to be done with a rush. It always pays to give the glasshouse a good wash down, and repair any roof leakages that are likely to spoil the blooms by drips. Earwigs and mildew are the two main troubiffs. In most caseji earwigs will bo found hiding among any dead leaves which may be attached to the plant. Dead leaves should be stripped off and the plants shaken to dislodge any pest which may be hiding further up the stem. Spraying is the deteiTent for mildew. In former days, Bulphide of potassium was the only specific used, but now shirlan, A.R., or one of thp colloidal sulphur prepara"tlons, has taken its place. Whatever preparation is used, thoroughly wet all the leaves on both sides with a fine sprayer. By laying the plants on a sheet of galvanised iron placed on trestles, the work can be done easily. If a bucket is placed at the lower end to catch the

drainings there is no waste of solution which can be used over again. It often happens that once the plants are inside the glasshouse, the weather takes a turn for the better, and the days may be warm ..and bright, making one wish that the plants were still in the open. If all the ventilators and doors are left open no harm will result except that some of the darker coloured varieties, which are showing colour, may be inclined to damp. The only prevention at this season will be to shade the blooms from the sun, as the trouble is really not damping, but scorching of the florets by the sun. Another peculiarity of the plants after housing is the little water they need. This is not a cause for any alarm, being merely temporary, due to the difference between outdoor and indoor conditions. ' No water should be given until the soil shows its need. In the meantime a close network of fine white roots will be observed on the surface of the soil of the pots, especially where top-dressing has been practised. To keep these active very weak liquid manure is all that is needed. Strong Chemicals would destroy them and do far more harm than good. As a general rule a feeding 9an go on until the blooms are half developed. While the flowers are developing a close

watch should be kept on the plants, shifting them slightly if they are found to be too crowded for certain individual blooms, to open without coming into contact with others. Watch tor any chance drop from the roof, either from condensed moisture running down the rafters or the entrance of rain through a cracked pane of glass. These may seem small matters, but if water drops into a bloom over a period, it is almost certain to set up decay.