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Enriching the Soil

Problem Needing Careful Study

gOILS vary widely, and methods of cultivation differ still more, so that the problem of enriching the soil is one in which we will never reach bedrock. There are more ways than one of coaxing garden ground into fertility, and furthermore many gardeners have methods of their own which no amount of talking or writing will induce them to set aside. There is 110 reason why they should abandon methods which have proved to be satisfactory, but it is not a good policy to reject every other proposition as being useless. Try anything once, is a good maxim. For many readers the advice to dig in plenty of well rotted manure is futile, as it is in some eases unobtainable. Substitutes of some description tliey must have; the question is what else can be used in its place to enrich the soil. It depends firstly on the character of the soil, and not a little 011 tlie aims in view Another important point is that there should be a distinct difference between the fertilisers used now and those applied during the spring and summer months. To put it as simply as possible, autumn and winter are the proper seasons for dealing with the manure question, with the object of improving the condition of the soil. Spring and summer are the seasons for supplying growing plants with supplementary tonics and stimulants that may be necessary or desirable. Hie owner of an old garden which has been under regular cultivation many years will need to be far more particular what 110 puts into the

WORK IN THE FLOWER GARDEN Many small weeds may be disposed of by lightly skimming the surface and turning them in. It is useless to hoe this iveather. Fork up the soil along the rows of peas and give a dressing of bonedust. Continue the planting of roses and ornamental shrubs. Plant out gladioli for the early blooms. Insert chrysanthemum cuttings as they become available. Plant out pansies, Iceland, poppies, nernesia and stocks. Dahlia stools intended for propagating purposes should be placed in position in the glasshouse. Borders of perennials are frequently deficient in lime, and an application now v.ill be beneficial. The Greenhouse Sow tomato seed for the main batch of plants; also cape gooseberry for planting out in October. Sou) annuals for summer bedding schemes; keep the seedlings near the glass to prevent being drawn. As soon as the ferns show signs of making new growth, the plants may he re-potted. To keep cyclamen in good, condition, do not let water lodge in the crown, and remove all faded flowers.

than one who lias a patch of ' u;u 'l.v broken, hungry soil. In the ornior cas'o it. is most prohablo that vegetable root fibre and other mas of rotted material have been t| r '°i quantity to provido ® the huhius needed. That being so, would do harm rather than good to ? n *' nu <> to bury leaves and the rest the garden rubbish, v ' n 'thor stable manure nor hops will wif) v. K °'' : W ' lU ' l ' s already charged a biunus and suffering to some exiiom sourness. Infinitely more

good would be done by digging deeply, leaving rough on the surface and scattering slaked lime along every trench as the digging proceeds. To go to Hie other extreme, a plot of ground that is just clay or sand will benefit most by being trenched to a depth of two feet, the bottom of each trench being well covered with such tilings as cabbage leaves, onion tops, pea and bean tops, and tree leaves. Between the successive spadefuls of the top spit, spread last summer's lawn mowings, spent hops, or any loose rotted vegetable refuse. Until any soil lias a reasonable amount of humus, it will not grow good plants or crops, neither can manures nor strong fertilisers render their services to plants unless their soluble contents can combine with the humus in the earth to complete conversion into plant food. The addition of lime is unlikely to be of service while the principal task is to create humus; but in tlie ease of harsh clay, it" may be necessary to pulverise the clods and break up inert chemicals. Jn that case spread the lime over the surface after burying the vegetable matter, and choose a favourable opportunity, between a week and a month later to boo or rake it beneath the surface. Late autumn and early winter are the best times for digging in bonemeal, fish meal or blood and bone. These materials take a considerable time to decompose, and it is only when rotted that the plant feeding elements they contain are released. If these substances are dug in during summer, that season will lie nearing its end before they begin to release their valuable elements. But during

winter the wet conditions favour decomposition, and there will bo something available from them as soon as the roots become active in spring. The chief valuo of these fertilisers is that they decompose so gradually that they expend their feeding properties slowly, and continue to do so for a considerable time. The finest grades will decay sooner than the coarser grades, and these latter are the more serviceable for subjects that will occupy the same position for a number of years.

WORK IN THE VEGET Plant out autumn-sown onions, cauliflower, cabbage and lettuce. When the soil is dry enough son.' early carrots, turnips, beetroot, radish, let I tire and spinach. Plant out. more each/ potatoes in warm districts. Mould up the earlier planted ones, and (jive, a dressing of fertiliser. Protect you nil crops from the depredations of slugs by laying calcium, arsenate ha its. Broad beans anil peas that are through, the ground should, have the earlh drawn up each side of the rows. Onions that are growing out in store will make good salading in early spring if planted out now. The Orchard Citrus trees that hare borne good, crops will need applications of manure. The pruning of these, trees should be attended to when the fruit has been removed. Head bad; slacks required, for grafting, and heel-in scions until required. Loo I, over the herry fruits. Cut away any soft canes on Hie lagans that have grown since pruning, and tie all securely.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZH19360711.2.200.47.3

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXIII, Issue 22468, 11 July 1936, Page 11 (Supplement)

Word Count
1,056

Enriching the Soil New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXIII, Issue 22468, 11 July 1936, Page 11 (Supplement)

Enriching the Soil New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXIII, Issue 22468, 11 July 1936, Page 11 (Supplement)