THE INGENIOUS PLEAT

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXIII, Issue 22402, 24 April 1936, Page 6 (Supplement)

THE INGENIOUS PLEAT

FAVOURED BY LONDON FASHION SKIRT FREEDOM IN DISGUISE [special to n.z. herald —copyright} LONDON, March 18. The skirts of tho newest fashions arc definitely short, slim and trim, but there is no "hobble" in the old sense of tho term, thanks to the ingenuity of the concealed pleats at tho side. These inverted pleats are entirely hidden by means of tho tailor's iron. Often, too, the hem is slit up an inch or two. The now tailored skirt is _l3in. oif the ground, but the line is in no way aggressive or impracticable, as the new cut gives all the freedom required. A chic little afternoon dress of heavy crepe, seen recently, had introduced a double row of fringe round the hem of a tight skirt. This was arranged in turret form and so opened at different spaces as the wearer moved, giving a graceful and unexpected fullness. That is one of the joys of modern fashion —one need not take any sensational mode too seriously, for there are always clever experts who will convert any extreme whvm into something graceful and practical. The New Silhouette One thing about this new skirtline is that it calls for skilful corsetry, for these tubular lines are shown on evening gowns as well as day frocks. Godets or inserts of plisse pleating are concealed in these tubular evening gowns, so that tho line remains straight in repose, but gives greater comfort in movement.

Perhaps the most startling silhouette is the Persian lampshade tunic, made to stand out from waist to hem, which reaches the knee, and thereby makes the tubular underskirt appear even tighter than it is. These are very attractive in iiower-printed taffetas, with the flowers cut out and stiffened and bunched across the front of the waistline. Narrow Tailored Effects I have sketched two new tailored ensembles —one a youthful suit with close, double-brensted buttoning and neat turn-over collar. This model was in navy blue with a white suede collar strapped with navy. It would look well in the popular black and white broken check, with collar and cuffs of black velvet strapped in the same way. The second sketch shows, a suit and top coat ensemble which emphasises the contrast scheme, both of material and line. The loose swing back of the threequarter coat emphasises the narrow skirt, which has concealed pleats in the front and a slit at the side. The jacket with single-breasted buttoning and highly-placed revers, is also of the mode. The colouring is good, the brown suit showing up against a brown and grey tweed coat, with grey blouse in light-weight angora, and a grey "casual" felt hat, shoes and gloves.