RAMBLER ROSES

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXIII, Issue 22356, 29 February 1936, Page 8 (Supplement)

RAMBLER ROSES

PRUNING PROCEDURE The true rambler roses, of which Dorothy Perkins can be cited as a wellknown variety, require to be pruned in the late summer or early autumn, and not in the spring. The reason for this is that they make their flowering growth a year in advance, and if pruning is deferred too late the new canes, which should mako the best display next season, will be crowded out by the older and less valuable growth, and will not have a chance to ripen properly. The reason so many flowering shrubs and rambler roses have flowered with such freedom this season is that the warm summer of last year enabled the wood to become thoroughly ripened before winter In order to ensure this thorough ripening, the growth must be spread out sufficiently to enable air and sunshine to pass through it freely. The pruning is really a simple matter, as lit merely consists of getting rid of as much of the old wood as possible, l'he young canes may be readily recognised at this time of year. Tho most valuable growth is that which comes from near the base of the plant. Many novices have spoiled their roses by cutting out these basal shoots in a mistaken notion that they are suckers. Though the method is simple, the work is inclined to be arduous, for the plants are capable of making an immense amount of growth, usually heavily armed with thorns. There is only one way of tackling the job, and that ia to provide one-

self with a pair of stout leather gloves, then to cut all the ties and lower the growth to the ground, spreading it out around the base of the plant as widely as possible, so that it is easily seen which growth is old and which is new. As far as possible 4 cut the old growth out to within a foot or so of the base of the plant. Unfortunately, this is not always practicable, as it would mean sacrificing a good many valuable young shoot 3 issuing from the older wood. , Do not forget that it is all to the good' if the wall or pergola appears somewhat thinly-clad when the pruning is completed. By the time the roses are in bloom next season they will have made a good deal more growth and all the canes will have thrown out side-shoots. In tying back the shoots, they should be spaced at a minimum of Bin. or 9in. apart. A wider spacing will be of advantage, for crowded growths mean weak stems and poor flowering qualities. AUTUMN FERTILISER An excellent chemical manure for autumn use is basic slag, especially on land inclined to be heavy. It will bo found beneficial for fruit trees, roses, shrubs and herbaceous borders. From 4oz. to 6oz. a square yard will bo a good dose. Basic slag, being a phosphatic manure, is especially good for fruit trees and is beneficial to stone fruits for the lime it contains. As the manurial elements are slow in action, the slag is best applied in the autumn. After being acted upon by the winter rains,' the full benefit- is obtained in spring, when growth becomes active again. STANDARD FUCHSIAS Fuchsias trained are a delightful addition to bo the garden during the summer months. Their profusion of flower and dainty graco are always attractive. The way to grow them is to take cuttings in March, placing them in pots of sandy soil in a frame or a glass-covered box in the greenhouse. When well rooted tliey must be potted off separately. In spring, when the plants commence to grow, \ the main stem is not "stopped" until it is at the height required. The top is then cut off and side shoots, which will eventually form the head, will develop.