EARLY TOMATOES

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXII, Issue 22166, 20 July 1935, Page 8 (Supplement)

EARLY TOMATOES

IN POTS OR BEDS It is a debatable point whether early tomatoes should ho grown in pots, or planted out in beds. Each method lias its advantages, and the means at the grower's disposal is usually the deciding factor. Plants grown in pots, usually produce the earliest tomatoes, although the crop may not be so heavy as from those planted direct into the beds. For those who have the necessary conveniences, it is well to grow a few of both, following on the pot plants designed to produce a few earlies, with the main batch planted out in prepared beds. Tomato plants are usually considered gross feeders, and while this is true to the effect that the plants will absorb all the nourishment given to them, its effect on the growth is not always an advantage Overfed plants will produce a large amount of foliage growth, and much of this is made at the expense of the fruit. Instances are sometimes seen of plants growing to three feet in height, before showing the first truss. Such plants produce enormous leaves, two feet in length. Growth of this description should be avoided at all costs. Soil in Pots ]f grown in pots the soil should be rammed firmly as this tends to a shortjointed stocky growth, conducive of fruiting. A loose rooting medium is certain to produce over- abundant foliage. For the same reason a bed prepared for tomatoes should be completed at least three weeks before planting, to allow the soil to settle down. The plants respond to feeding much better if the roots arc kept near the surface, so it is unwise to allow them an unrestricted root run. The beds should not be more than eight to ten inches deep. A good stout stake must be provided for each plant before sufficient growth is made to cause it to become top-heavy. The early ties should also be loose, as the main stem swells at a rapid rate, and ties loose in the first instance will soon be found to be cutting into the stem and constricting the flow of sap. All lateral growths must be removed as fast as they appear. To allow them to attain any size is a sheer waste of the energies of the plant. Ample ventilation is essential especially when the fruits are setting, but that docs not mean that the plants

should be exposed to cutting winds or draughts. The vents should always be opened on the lee side of the house, and changed in accordance with the wind's variation. No fears need be entertained, should the thermometer rise to a good height when the sun gains power, providing a current of fresh air is maintained. Fertilising the Blooms Fertilisation ot the blooms may be effected by going round the plants in the middle of the day, and gently tapping the sticks. It the plants are growing in good soil, no feeding will be necessary until the first truss of fruit has commenced to swell. Feeding too soon, like overfeeding, will harm rather than help the crop. It is never a wise plan to experiment with various chemicals in the hope of finding an exceptional formula. The blending of the manures is best left to specialists, and reliance can usually be placed on the many proprietary brands now on the market. Many chemicals have a definitely injurious effect when mixed, nnd the composition of various fertilisers may be vastly different, though similar in effort. The usual method of application is to stir the fertiliser into the surface soil, then wash in with water. In the place of clear water, weak solutions of natural manure can be used after feeding with fertilisers commences. Strong concentrations are a mistake at any time, and liquid manure should always be well diluted, to the colour of weak tea. When growing tomatoes in pots or benzine tins, it is always advisable to leave a considerable space at the top, to allow room for a top dressing when the original soil becomes full of roots. HOME-MADE WIRE TIES The tying up of some plants, especially sweet peas, is a tedious operation when raffia is used, and an efficient substitute, which is indestructible and easily adjusted, is the wire ring. These may' bo easily made at home in any quantity by winding wire in the form of a spiral around u wooden rod about lin. in diameter The spiral is then pushed off the rod and the rings' cut with a pair of pliers. When using the rings, all that is required is to press the two loose ends together, embracing the support and the plant. There is no danger of tying too tight and so constricting growth, and at the end of the season the rings may be collected and used for next season's work.