SOUTHERN WILDS

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXII, Issue 22004, 10 January 1935, Page 11

SOUTHERN WILDS

THRILLS FOR CLIMBERS THREE VIRGIN PEAKS STORM IN OHAU REGION Three mountaineers have returned fromfcan interesting expedition to the headwaters of the Hopkins River at the back of the Lake Ohau district. The climbers, who ascended three virgin peaks, two being unmapped, were Messrs. R. H. Booth (New Zealand Alpine Club), H. McD. Vincent, and J). Minson (Canterbury Mountaineering Club). They were apparently the first mountaineering party to visit the Richardson Glacier, a three miles stretch of ice which gives birth to the Hopkins River. There they found a number of large hanging glaciers not shown on maps. An account of their travels is given in the Christchurch Sun. The Hopkins River junctions with the Dobson River, the combined rivers emptying into Lake Ohau, which in turn supplies the Waitaki River. The two rivers run parallel for over 20 miles, and are separated by the Glen Mary and the Neumann Range.

Within three days the climbers ha<t established a base camp near the end of the bush level. From there they climbed a rock peak of 7746 ft. on the Neumann Range. It proved a difficult and hazardous climb. They attacked a rock ridge leading to the summit, but the rock was unstable, rocks tumbling down, while every foot and handhold had to be tested before any weight was applied. The ridge proved exhausting and nerve-racking. Eventually the climbers swung across the steep face of the peak toward a ridge on the Dobson side, and after an hour and a-half on the summit rocks gained the crest.

The first concern was to find a route down, for the climbers were not anxious to go down the line of the ascent. One was found, the first portion being, a snow couloir. Before descending, the party built a cairn and surveyed the route to attack a glacier-crowned mountain to the north-east. It was seen that if it could be attained it would be possible to traverse along the summit ridge of the range, and with little difficulty climb a rock peak farther on. Then north-west rain fell. Except on the return trip down the valley the party never experienced a day free from rain. *

The climbers roped in descending tho snow couloir, moving one man at a time, and with faces turned to the wall. The snow was firm, so that, although the angle of descent was dizzy, footholds were good and iceaxes anchored firmly.

Appalling Roar and Clatter

Some way down the party was compelled to take to a rock chute. Rocks fell away under the feet of the climbers with appalling roar and clatter. It was a case of one man descending at a time, and, while waiting for the other, sheltering behind a big rock from stones dislodged by those above. The rope was also employed on occasions.

Next day a short break in the weather permitted the party to move to a high camp by the Richardson Glacier, leaving many of their supplies at their base camp. -They experienced heavy rain, but there was a short break in the weather next afternoon; so th& opportunity was taken to explore the Richardson Glacier. There is very little terminal moraine, for the Hopkins River comes from the glacier at such a sharp of descent that it tumbles and sweeps rocks before It.

Beyond the rock-strewn glacier on the clear and crevassed ice the effect was awesome. The rock ramparts of Mount Hopkins, an unnamed peak, and Mount McKerrow dominated. They were absolutely perpendicular walls of rock, except for a bulge or two on which hung a glacier. The Richardson Glacier turned to the left, running up to icefalls on Mount McArthur, which in turn sent down a great glacier Y-shaped. Heavy Thunderstorm To the usual roar of avalanches, and the river rolling down its rocks, was added the cannonade of a southwest thunderstorm which brought heavy rain. Lightning danced along the crests, striking and shattering rocks, making the climbers conscious of the fact that their steel-headed iceaxes on which the alpine tent was slung might prove a focal point for an electrical discharge. The storm passed, and with the dawn the climbers were attacking their mountain. They had to half encircle it, and before they were within striking distance of their summit visibility was lost in mist which brought up an increasing drizzle of rain. They plodded up snow slopes, and for a time over glacier-worn hard rock thgt offered no difficulties. They continued their curving and ascending course, but just when fear was beginning to be felt that the summit would be missed, the clouds swirled aside, and within a few minutes they were on their ice peak. A retreat was made tp rocks on the summit ridge, and a cairn erected. Across the Hopkins Valley, tantalising glimpses were given of peaks and icefalls, and good routes were plotted up Mounts Williams and McArthur, two Main Divide, peaks that have resisted climbers. Once more clouds came down and squeezed out rain. The climbers went down the summit ridge, and had just started to descend a snow slope when again the clouds swirled aside, and the second peak, which they had nev^expected in the conditions to locate, was dramatically revealed. Return to the Attack So up the slope went the climbers to the attack. They mounted a serrated and crazy ridge, such as Dore might have fantastically conceivad. Progress was slow, until they saw beneath them on the Dobson -Valley side, a huge pjacier, that extended to within a chain or so of the peak. They raced along this, and within a brief period had attained the crest and were engaged on cairn building with rock that appeared to be true slate. An easy descent brought them to the Hopkins River. They had crossed it that morning on one of two huge snow avalanche bridges that were a relic from the spring, but one only was left. In their absence, the river had swallowed the other! It was a reminder of the dramatic forces continually at work in the mountains.