WEEDS IN LAWNS

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXI, Issue 21876, 11 August 1934, Page 8 (Supplement)

WEEDS IN LAWNS

SOLUTION OF PROBLEM The removal of deep-rooted weeds from lawns without causing undue damage to the grass is generally a difficult matter. A solution the problem is provided by the simple weeding device shown in thp sketch. This arrangement consists of a piece of metal tubing of a suitable diameter, fitted with a wooden plunger a little longer than the tube. A knob or handle can befitted to the top of the plunger, which should be an easy sliding fit in the tube. The method of using this device is illustrated. The tube is placed over the weed and pressed into the soil as shown

Useful lawn weeding device, as explained

in text. at A. It is then withdrawn with a twisting motion, to remove. the weed bodily as shown at ,B. from which it can be ejected by pushing down the plunger as in C. The removal of the weed naturally leaves a hole. The easiest way to fill it is to push the tube (with the plunger raised) into the soil of a flower-bed (or a box of soil) and withdraw with a twisting motion, so as to pick up a quantity of soil in the tube. On replacing the tube over "the hole in the lawn, and pushing the plunger down, the soil is forced into the hole and the surface is left neat and smooth. A pinch of grass seed can be sprinkled on top if necessary. After a little practice weeds can be lifted and the holes refilled with surprising rapidity.

ORNAMENTAL VINES The ornamental leaved varieties of the grape vine are without equal for the purpose of covering walls, pergolas, or old trees. Some kinds, such as Vitis coignetiae, may be expected to grow from 30ft. to 40ft. in height and festoon the branches of large trees. They are particularly effective in the autumn when the leaves are changing colour, brilliant shades of scarlet and bronze being predominant. When cultivated in this way,, they Bhould not be planted too close to the trunk of the supporting tree, but near the outskirts of the branches, as they will thrive much better in this way than if they are required to fight their way for existence from the centre of the tree. Some support is needed until the vine reaches the branches, when it wilj soon climb by means of its own tendrils.

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS " Ichabod" (Horahorah —The native shrub is Dracophyllom strictum. A.M.B. (Te Aroha).—The asparagus bed ! can be broken up now, but better results •will be obtained by young plants than old divisions. F.E.M., Whakatane.—The orange tree is suffering from scale. Spray now with oil spray at four per cent strength. The daphne is lacking nourishment. Apply now blood and bone (three parts! and sulphate of potash (one part). " Clean Up" (Mataxnata).—The only way to get rid of the hops is to trenoh the ground and pick out the roots. There are many things which would poison them, but, of course, that would prevent anything else being grown in that position. E.C. (Whangarei).—The best way to deal •with the coarse gross on the lawn is to dig out the tufts, make the eoil good in the patches, and sow some more grass seed. This can be done now. Any tufts that show up during the year should be removed before any size is attained. " Begonia" (Te Puke).—The begpnia is President Carnot. The plant has no doubt exhausted the soil if it is not possible to repot. Take off as much as you can of the top soil and replace with a. mixture of fibrous loam, old cow manure and sand. See that the drainage is in good order and make all firm. During the growing season apply liquid manure or a to'p-dressing occasionally of three parts superphosphate to one part sulphate of potash, well watered in. W.J.McK. (Waihi).—The chestnuts are best raised from seed sown as soon as ripe. If kept any length of time, the nuts should be stored in eand or moist earth, otherwise the outer -skin becomes very hard and germination is doubtful. Success iB sometimes obtained, providing the kernel has not shrivelled unduly, by filing a nick in the shell away from the point before sowing. Your nuts will be best planted at once. Named fruiting varieties are propagated by budding or grafting on seedlings. " Violet," Avondale.—No. 1 sample of soil is decidedly sour; dig it deoply, leaving as rough as possible to expose to the air and lime it well after digging. A pound of lime to the square yard at least should bo applied. No. 2 sample is not quite so sour, but the Bame treatment would benefit it also. See that the drainage is good in both cases, making sure that there is no stagnant moisture underneath. I: no improvement results it would be advisable to have the soil analyst by the Department of Agriculture. D. (Waiuku). —1. The poison bait recommended last week will lessen the number of slaters. Horticultural naphthalene will also help. 2. Caustic soda spray will remo.-e the lichen from the trees. Caustic soda lib., soap lib., water 10 gallons. Spray now. Oil the hands while using. 3. The tree is Melia azadarach and will grew to 30ft. It would be best to prune off the side branches and leave the growing top to make a straight trunk. This can be done now. 4. It is not necessary to prune A, Baileyanti unless desired to keep the treo small. If so, prune just after flowering. " Naimai" (Tauranga).—l. The little black slug which occurs on the pear ia the pear slug. It weakens the tree by destroying the leaves and preventing fruit budß forming. Spray the trees with arsenate of lead when the slug appears. Encourage growth by manuring now. 2. The stocks have no doubt suffered from water-logging and the roots have dried. 8. Black wattle seeds are beet scalded before sowing. I Bhould imagine that water is not very far from the surface at your place and that the roots of your pear trees have also reached the water, especially if on seedling stock. The quince stock is best for soils of that description. " Kauri." Kaikohe.—(l) The age at which a young kauri will bear cones will vary. If growing strongly it may take 20 ycors; on the other hand, a tree in a poor slate of health would produce cones in half that time. (2) Male and female flowers appear on the same tree. (3) It is impossible to state at what age a kauri ceoses growth. The estimated age of some of the remaining kauris runs into hundreds of years and they are still growing. (4) Kauri gum iB the solidified resin which will issue from wounds on any part of the trunk or branches. Tho kauri gum as dut< up is the fossilised resin from ancient forests of kauri. .

" Rust," Pueroa.—Tho trouble is iris leaf spot,. Spraying with lime sulphur will give partial control, but never complete immunity. The best method is to cut off and burn all the leaves bb soon as the spots are seen. This may have to bo done two or three time, in addition tc spraying with lime sulphur, one in 100 (2) Tho snapdragon rust (Puccinia antirrhini) is difficult to control and spraying has given disappointing results. The only safe method is to refrain from growing snapdragous for at least one season to allow the spores to die out. The disease does not attack any other plant, being peculiar to the antirrhinum. The rust is worse in wet, cold weather. Under summer conditions it is not so troublesome. The spores are not carried on the seed, but on tlie small pieces of stem and seed pod usually mixed with the seed. Pouring some Cheshunt compound in tho holes when planting -will greatly assist. (3) Have noted your request, and in the meantime would recommond you to obtain the catalogue of a gladioli specialist, as the varieties are too numerous to review hero. Ksrom