HURLED TO DEATH

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXI, Issue 21876, 11 August 1934, Page 2 (Supplement)

HURLED TO DEATH

TRAGEDY OF THE ICE MYSTERY MOUNTAIN VICTIM SKILFUL ALPINISTS FATE A dramatic story of how Mystery Mountain, made famous by being crossed recently by Sir Norman Watson and his party, claimed its first victim in the person of a young Scotsman, Eric Dalgleish, is told by Dr. Neal Carter, who, with two other companions, attempted to scale the mountain, and met disaster at the 10,500 ft. level, when the rope broke, says the Vancouver correspondent of the Herald. Mr. Dalgleish, a noted alpinist, was hurled to his death, 700 feet below them.

Dr. Carter says: "Wo left- Vancouver on June 16, and two days later started from the head of Knight Inlet, and pitched our base camp at Icefall Point, on the Franklin Glacier. At 3 a.m. we left our skis, which had not been used so far, at the foot of the icefall, and climbed up through the crevasses, with Mr. dalgleish leading. There was a frozen crust on ? ihe snow, which by the use of crampons—adjustable spikes strapped on soles of boots •—made the ascent quite safe. "At 6.30 a.m.-we were above the icefall at 9650 feet, and stopped for something to eat while we studied the proposed route through field glasses. The whole south face of the mountain had previously been studied from various angles and possible routes discussed. The final route chosen was one which seemed feasible from below and which met with jib 6 approval of each member of the party. Ascent ol Steep Ridge

" Alan Lambert then took the lead and the party ascended a steep snow gully terminating in an ice slope which led to a narrow notch, 10,100 feet, leading up to the main ridge of Mount Waddington. The ascent of the iced portion consumed considerable time and the notch was not reached until 9 a.m. " The party removed. their crampons at this point and commenced the ascent of the rock ridge, which was steep, but quite feasible for experienced climbers. Tho day was fine and th© rocks free from snow and ice. After ascending some 100 feet Dalgloish relieved Lambert of the leadership by reversing the order of the party. After proceeding a short distance, Dalgleish, who was now leading on the rcpe, declared there was no possibility of further ascent by that route, and it was decided that tho' party should descend until a junction with a more promising route could lie reached. f " Mr. Dalgleish then started to descend to Eric Brooks, who was next on the rope, which was anchored between ,them over a projection of rock. Suddenly Brooks saw Dalgleish slip to the side of the ridge over a bulge of rock and out of sight. An impact was felt and at the same time the full strain * was felt on the rope, which parted between Dalgleish and Brooks. Dalgleish fell about 100 feet. Instantaneous Death

"It was about noon, and when the party had recovered from the first shock of tho accident they carefully made their way down to the body, tho descent occupying three and a-half hours. It was then found that Dalg- ' leish had met death instantaneously. As Dalgleish was not visible to the party below, the actual cause of his fall is not known, but it is thought, that in descending, an anchorage, which, according to the usual practice in such situations, he would have secured above himself, did not hold and he lost his footing. "It being impossible to convey the body to the base of the mountain unaided, after careful deliberation we decided" to bury it in the snow in a safe position. The body was, therefore, removed to a location free from avalanches, and after burying it securely, we carefully marked and photographed the spot before resuming our descent to the base camp, which was reached at 2.30 a.m."

Air. Dalgleish came from Dalkeith, Scotland, his birthplace, nine years ago, and was one of the best-known mountain climbers in Western Canada. He was an executive member of the Alpine Club of Canada, and had climbed the Rockies at several points. His greatest feats included the ascent of the Coast Range to the source of the Lillooet and Toba Rivers. He had many first ascents to his credit at the head of Bute Inlet. Hi§ trailcraft was skilful to a degree, which makes the accident that befel him a mystery to all who knew him.