SUMMER PRUNING

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXI, Issue 21698, 13 January 1934, Page 8 (Supplement)

SUMMER PRUNING

IMPORTANT WORK Summer pruning plays an important part in the successful cultivation of apples and pears. It should be practised annually on all trees of handy si2e. The time to carry out the summer pruning varies with the season, but usually the second or third week in January is the most suitable pferiod in the average year. At this pruning all long, young laterals or side-shoots are shortened back to within about five leaves of their base. These are best clipped off with the secateurs. Only the side or lateral shoots of the current year's growth are pruned in summer. The young leader or terminal shoots at the end of each branch must be left unshortened until the winter pruning, when the laterals shortened in summer are, of course, further cut back to within two or three buds of their base. If late summer growth is made from the topmost buds of shoots shortened in January, as sometimes happens, this should be nipped off as it appears, or the good effect of the earlier pruning will be lost.

The vigorous winter pruning necessary in forming a stout-limbed tree causes a great many strong shoots to start which are not required as leaders. To remove these entirely when fully grown appeals to one as unnecessary waste of energy on the part of the tree. To cut them back a little in winter only aggravates the evil, by causing a greater number to appear during the following summer. There are three methods of dealing with laterals, which cannot possibly be retained as leaders, and which, at the same time, are likely to extend to such a length as to cause overcrowding. The first consists of pinching out the growing tip after the shoot has developed about six good leaves. This is done in early summer, and must in most instances be repeated on subsequent

growths, which invariably arise. The second method is to wait until midsummer, and then to cut it off four to six leaves from its base. The guidiny. factor is the moisture in the soil. If enough moisture is present the pruned shoot will break into growth This may not prove altogether nugatory, as, while one or two buds may develop into useless growth, others near the base will progress into that shortspur stage which is the object sought for. The third method consists of partially fracturing the shoots, and allowing them to hang down. Apart from the untidy appearance, the hanging shoots are inclined to shade the lower portion of the tree unduly. Ihe first method is time-consuming work, but is certainly "effective; but probably the second method has found most favour, and is, indeed, the method most used.

QELERY CULTURE

EARTHING-UP PROCESS Celery is much in demand toward autumn and winter. Although the modern tendency is to grow the selfblanching varieties, there is much to be said for the older varieties which require to be earthed up to ensure that blanching, which is desirable if celery is to be at its best. Earthiug-up should bo carried out with care, and only when the foliage is dry, and no soil should be allowed to fall into the centres, or decay will set in. A scattering of lime or soot or a mixture of both is then applied round the plants, and each one tied up loosely. Earthing-rap must be done gradually. On the first occasion no more than -tin. or oin of soil is placed round the plants, and in no case should the centre of growth be buried. Every 14 days further soil can be added, and by April the plants should be ready to be earthed-up finally.

KEROSENE JELLY

VALUE AS INSECTICIDE Kcrosono jelly is a useful insecticide to_ keep for use to combat a sudden infestation of green fly or other plant lice. It is made by boiling half a gallon of kerosene with one pound of soft soap; when boiling add one pint of cold water and stir well together; this sets to a jelly when placed in a tin -to cool. The whole is sufficient to make 25 gallons of spray, or if onlv small quantities are desired, stir in the jelly at the rate of to one callon of water. A satisfactory emulsion can be made with the help of flour, which has great adhesive properties. Place Jib. of flour in a benzine tin, and add one pint of kerosene. Stir well together, then add some boiling water, and stir, add more boiling water and stir again, finally Tanking up the solution to 2J gallons. To make a fungicidal spray which acts well against plant diseases as well as posts, mix together water one gallon, kerosene two ounces, lime half ounce, and powdered bluestone one ounce.