Never Ending Enchantment of Island-Studded Hauraki Gulf

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXX, Issue 21647, 13 November 1933, Page 19 (Supplement)

Never Ending Enchantment of Island-Studded Hauraki Gulf

UK glory of Auckland is her hills and her harbour. Within the deep and sheltered waterways of the AVa i tenia t;i and Ilauraki Gulf are bays and beaches that all tlio year round are the rendezvous of holiday-makers and (hose who seek the health-giving sea breezes that come wafting in from the Pacific. Well did those old-timo name-givers interpret the charm of the blue reaches that stretch from shore to shore when tlie.v gave the harbour the name of Waitemata, the ''Shining Water-." This translation irom the Maori has 1 ,(,,•!) challenged many a time, but who cares what else " Waitemata'' may or may not mean 1,,. n so beautiful an interpretation has been handed down fo us from pioneer founders of \ucklandW ho cares what other meaning the word mav carry when the summer sun is tippin" cai'h wavelet with sunshine sparkle, and the >\liole surface of the harbour is a glittering mosaic of gold and opal, turquoise and silver? Then it is that the white wings are unfurled, and sea-loving young Unions of the South set out on their holiday cruises to the lovely beaches and bays of the Waitemata. And what unlimited wealth of beauty lies within the bounds of those blue arms, or just bevond the rim of the island-studded horizon! Cheltenham, Narrow Neck, Takapuna, Milford,

Brown's Bay, all within an hour's run of the city, then, following the northern sweep of the harbour, Deep Creek, Arkle's, the newer holidaymaking resorts of the "Whangaparaoa Peninsula, and still farther north Orewa and "Waiwera. Launches and yachts hy the score take the holiday-making crowds still farther afield every week-end, and for these there is no happier nor popular rendezvous than Kawau —romantic, beautiful Kawau, the Island of Dreams of one of England's greatest pioneer nation-builders, 111o>fc noted of all New Zealand s Governors, Sir George Grey. As the white wings speed down the blue waters and round the tall, pine-crowned headland that shelters Mansion House Bay, what memories of other days awaken! The old stone building comes into sight, the home built by Sir George over half a century ago. The great statesman dreamed a dream, and just for onco the dream came true. He spent half a fortune to that end, and planted Kawau with beautiful trees and shrubs and flowers from all parts of the world, so that it became a place of wonder and enchantment that princes and governors and great nien from the ends of the earth came to see. Blue-flowering jacarandas, Judas thorns and fame tree from Cape Colony, Brazilian palms, maples and wisteria from Japan, black wattle from -Australia, rhododendrons from India, olive trees and oleanders from shores lapped by the blue Mediterranean—it is said that almost every ship that sailed in from tho Seven Seas'in those golden days brougnt to Governor Grey some treasure from the outer world. Within the Mansion House was stored priceless treasure of picture, manuscript and works of art later bequeathed to Auckland in the form of the Grey Collection.

For 20 years the great pro-Consul lived in tin's Lie of Knchantment, with a retinue of pakelia and .Maori attendants. J lien he went away, but Kawau siill exists as the echo of a beautiful dream, and those who wander its green bills, its golden beaches and wooded shores still find much to remind them ot tho days of old.

Out; beyond Kawau lie the Barriers, Great and Little. The Little Barrier is not a popular haunt of those white wings that come fluttering down '.he Waitemata, for it stands rigidly aloof in strict seclusion, its towering headlands >'ind bush-crowned heights a sanctuary for land birds and sea birds of every description. Great Barrier is more hospitable, and Port Fitzroy, a wide and beautiful waterway that winds into the very heart of the island, offers every form of seaside joy to Auckland's summer holidaymakers.

Nearer to Auckland, and served by launch and fcrrv, is Rangitoto, stately, triple-peaked (guardian of the Waitemata. It, is littlo more than a vast pile ol scoria rock and has no apparent water supply, yet an amazing wealth of vegetation somehow finds sustenance within tlio ciacks and crevices ot the huge boulders and scoria heaps. In suinmert imo the Christinas flower is the glory o! Rangitoto, and the grey lax a is carpeted with a glory ot scarlet as tlio (lowers drilfc down on the sea-breezes. In years gone by a climb to the topmost peak of Rangitoto, about 10011. high, was a iearsome adventure, so rough and tiring was the ascent. Within recent years the track lias been widened and smoothed down, so that one may now take a stroll light-loot to the very top in sandshoes. A motor road has also been constructed by prison labour, giving ready access to the summit, from which a glorious panorama of sea and island, city and distant hills may he obtained. Over the other side of the narrow channel at the south end of .Rangitoto lies tlio island ol Motutapu. another favourite picnic resort, and opposite Motutapu is one of the loveliest of all tlio islands of the Cult, Motuihi. In years gone by this was Auckland's quarantine station. Later on, in the war period, it was used as an internment camp, and for a time held von Luckner, tlio German sea-raider. A few years ago it achieved its real destiny as one of tho most desirable and lovely picnicking places open

Golden Sanded Bays Within the City

AUCKLAND'S beach resorts, embracing in their variety vast stretches of sand facing the ocean rollers and secluded coves, tree-fringed with the flowering pohutukawa, aro unique in their profusion and proximity to the city. Mission Bay, pictured above, is a quarter-mile sandy beach, five minutes by motor-car or bus from tic chief post office, and approached by the magnificent new marine parade that skirts the harbour front. Ladies' Bay and other beautiful coves hidden among the cliffs beyond St. Helieis are delightful picnicking spots, where the blue water gleams invitingly in the summer sun and the seabirds wheel above the tree tops. Ao

YACHTING PARADISE OF DOMINION

to Aucklamlers. Tfc is now officially designated a "marine park." It belongs to the City Council, and is also the site of the Community Sunshine Association's camps for children. Here ailing children win back pink checks and bright eyes, and the vitality that is the dower of wait sea breezes, and the care-free, health-giving life of the seaside. Here are not only smooth golden beaches and sheltered bathing bays, but green fields and groves, beaujtiful walks and exquisite views of the whole lovely stretch of the Waiteluata. Farther down the Gulf lies Waiheke, largest of all these islands save Great Harrier. On its western shores the ocean breakers come thundering in under the lash of the storm, on the east the waters are calm and undisturbed, wave when the storm king comes roaring down from the dark heights of the C'oromandel Ranges. Here are a score of pleasure resorts: on the western shores, Onetangi, Palm Beach, Oneroa, Surfdale, and on the eastern side Cowes, Man-'o-War, Awaroa and many another. Once upon a time the whole of 'Waiheke was mantled in splendid native forest, and was the home ol successive Maori tribes who fought and overcame the previous inhabitants. Remains of the cannibal ovens still tell the horrible fate of the vanquished. Not more than a smaH'handful of Maori inhabitants now remain on Waiheke, and the island itself has suffered more drastic and complete changes than any other in the Gulf. Almost

town-planner with visions of (lie city beautiful could have schemed a finer lay-out of beaches for the recreation and happiness of the people. Even wliero residential building is dense, as along 1110 Ponsonby and Ileruc Bay waterfronts, cosy little bays abound facing the northern sun, so that families can tako their morning and evening plunge with no less trouble"than walking out of their homes in bathing costumes and dressing gowns. Like Svdnev, some of the best beaches are situated across* the harbour, where Cheltenham, Takapuna and Milford, with a string of bays and inlets further north, attract their summer devotees by the thousand. Transport conveniences have" enormously improved access to the Manukau Harbour bays, such as \\ aikowhai, Blockhouse Bay, Green and French Bays.

every vestige of tlio magnificent bush lias disappeared, and even the small, pitiful remnant that remains lias boon allowed to pass into private ownership, so that the; desire for material gain may yet bring about the complete denudation of those once lovely hills and valleys of Waiheke. In addition io these sea-girt, happy havens, Auckland also possesses on its eastern harbour shores many a golden stretch of beach within easy landward reach of the city —Mission Hay, Kohimarama, St. Jleliers, and a little farther alicld Beaehlaiids, Auckland's Beach, liowick, Maractai and Clevedon. With such a dower of beauty at its doors, with such matchless seaside playgrounds, what wonder that white wings are unfurled, and tlio Waitemata and Hauraki Gulf forms the setting for a wondrous sea-pageant as soon as tlio bugles of Summer blow, and Aucklanders follow; the trail of the Shining Waters? As a cruising ground the llauraki Gulf has no rival in the Southern Hemisphere and it is doubtful if the northern part of the globe can boast of such sheltered and ideal grounds as those enjoyed by the yachtsmen of Auckland. From the earliest times Auckland has been famed for the building of fast sailing craft of all kinds, and even to-day locallv-built boats can bo found in many a distant port holding their own for speed against some of the best that tlio rest of the world can produce. Of all the fast yachts built in Auckland possibly tlio most famous is Rainbow, which not only made a nam©

for herself for speed in New Zealand but alstf in Australia, where she beat the best in her class.

Auckland yachting dates as far back as September IS," IB 10, when the first regatta was held. On that occasion the programme consisted of onlv three races—for trading vessels and Maori canoes—whereas now there are 40 events on the Anniversary Day Hegatta programme. Unlike to-day there were then no graceful vachts such as Ariki, lorangi, Xga Toa, Rawene, Rainbow, Prize, Victory and Theltna, but tho pioneers were cpnte content and e\er happy to race their trading cutters, scows, ketches and schooners. .As the years rolled by tho modern yacht made its appearance and it has now completely displaced the trading vessels. Among Auckland's old-time yachts were Taniwha, Secret, Arawa, Rita, Akaraua, Laurel, Mnritai, Volunteer, Matangi, Tawera, Ngairo, Miona, Maritana and Jessie Logan.

Yachtsmen are rarely seen in the mass and few people realise that there are no fewer than eleven clubs, each with a membership of between 200 to 400, besides a number of smaller clubs. The larger bodies have built for themselves clubhouses, costing in one instance over £'2ooo and in another over £I2OO. During tho summer the Auckland Harbour Board receives mooring fees varying from 10s to £2 per boat as well as fees for inspecting and laying moorings for some 750 boats in protected areas. There are over 1200 pleasure boats on the A\ alternate. In the sailing division all classes aro represented, from the Tauranga 7ft. midget class up to the 85ft. schooner-yacht Morewa. Tho power-driven class includes outboard speedsters, doing from 25 to 40 miles an hour, to stately cruisers like Shenandoah, Luana, Linda, \\ irihana and Lady Margaret.

Almost peculiar (o Auckland is the mullet boat, a fiue, wholesome type of sailing era It which has found great favour i:i the eyes of young yachtsmen. These centreboard boats aro firmly established on the Waitemata ami aro divided into four classes: N, 2011.; L, 22ft.; 1, 21ft.; and 11, 20ft. These boats are not only fast but seaworthy and cruise as far north as Whangaroa ami south as Tauranga. The mullet boat originally derived its namo from fishermen, who were the first to introduce it as a suitable type of cralt for fishing. On being adopted as a class by the various clubs catering for centreboard boats, restrictions governing the class were drawn up. An attempt has often been made to drop the term "mullet boat" and substitute "tuckstern centreboard yachts," but so far the promoters of the movement have not succeeded m their object. Probably they never will.