Panorama of Loveliness from the Brow of Maungakiekie

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXX, Issue 21647, 13 November 1933, Page 13 (Supplement)

Panorama of Loveliness from the Brow of Maungakiekie

[jl'E hills sloping down to the distant son,, n rose-red rond winding up and up through fields of vivid green to a hilltop crowned with a group of windswept pines—that is the first impression one gains of tho marvellous panorama unfolded from the summit of Auckland's most famous look-out, Jlaungakiekio, One Tree Hill. In tho west lie the forest-clad ranges of Waitakere, and over a dip nt the Mnnukau Harbour entrance one gets a fleeting glimpse of white-crested ocean breakers crashing on the bar; in tho east lie the blue hills of sunrise and the far-flung panorama of Auckland isthmus in all its gloaming beautv of islet and blue waterway, golden beaches and gently rising hills. Truly it is a picture to stir the imagination, to waken enthusiasm in the heart of the jaded world traveller.

For hundreds of years before tho coming of .he white man, the hill of Maungakiekie was i great Maori fort, or rather a system of for-

J' HE original town site of Auckland, as purchased from the Ngati-whatna chiefs by the Government in July, 1840, comprised about 3000 acres. It was bounded on the north by the Waitemata Harboar and on the landward side by an irregular line running from the south-west corner of Hobson Bay to Mount Eden and thence to Cox's Greek. Payment consisted of 50 blankets, a quantity of clothing, tobacco, cloth, sugar and Rout, 20 hatchets, 10 iron pots and £56 in money.

'Mentions, crowned by the mighty citadel-pa of Kiwi Tamaki, who dominated the Tamaki Isthmus 200 years ago. The green slopes and terraces where seagulls strut and run, and sheep nibble drowsily at the short, sweet grass, were ones peopled with a tribe of Maoris several thousand strong; from tho hilltop, where the only sound to-day is that of tho wind stirring the branches of the pines, came tho dread sound of the great gong of Kiwi, warning his •people that the enemy was on the warpath. Across the portage between the waters of Tamaki and the salt tides of the Manukau, was dragged the great Tainui canoo GOO years ago; here on these slopes, on the level plateau where golfers drive small white balls, terrible encounters dyed the red earth with redder blood, and the wail of the tang? echoed out in the quiet eventide. The era of warfaro passed; the great hill fort was deserted. Ninety years ago, a white man strode up the brackenclad hillside, and pakeha stood for tho first time side by side with Maori on the crest of historic Maungakiekie—John Logan Campbell,' one of the pioneer founders of Auckland City, and its greatest benefactor. Very different was tho scene upon which ho looked that day in 18-10 from tho picture which charms the eye and gladdens the heart of visitors to-day. He looked out upon an uninhabited wilderness of. fern and bush-filled valleys, stretching across the isthmus from north to i;outh and from east to west. Here and there were patches of bright green, tho kumara plantations of tho Maori, and from little isolated settlements blue wreaths of smoke rose from the " hangis," or native ovens. Of European occupation there was not a trace, for pakeha settlement still centred about Kororareka in the North, and the total number of white men on tho shores of the AVaitemata that day was five! The outstanding feature of tho panorama viewed from One Tree Hill to-day is tho wonderful vista of homes stretching in every direction, battalions of homes crowding every suburb, marching out to tho shores of tho Waiternata, across tho empty spaces, up tho hillsides, down tho valleys, out into tho sunset hills, and over tho green fields to the very edge o.: the isthmus. Homes red-roofed and green-roofed, stately suburban homes 6et in groves of trees and surrounded by gardens, city homes huddling close together by the roadside, little solitary homes in tho midst of green farmlands and fenced paddocks. Out beyond the fields arid gardens and houses is tho far-flung pageant of hills and distant rp-'<ies, islands s<'l in sunny blue seas,

bays and beaches, forest and ocean, that has made this Ono Tree Hill outlook ono of the world's great views. Far away on the eastern horizon is the dim, bluo outlino of Cape Colyillo, with the rugged pilo of Castle Rock rising like a great primeval monument above the dark forests of the Coromandel Ranges. Farther to tho south tlio hills circlo round to tho Hunua Ranges; Pukekohe Hill, over 30 miles distant, rises clear and distinct on the horizon, and nearer at hand, toward Drurv, Papaktira and Clevedon, are the remnants of forests whero warring tribes of Maoris took refuge in tho sixties, descending often in raids upon settlers in those isolated districts.

Following tho circle, the eye rests on tho wule reaches of the Manukau, where blue arms of the salt sea stretch inland to Weymouth lapakura and Waiuku. Then the hills in tho west take clearer shape, emerging sharp-cut from tho lilac haze of distance, finding abrupt termination in tho steep, sheer cliff faeo of the South Head, guardian of tho ocean entranco to the Manukau. In tho tiny V-shaped gap between North and South Heads lies that fascinating glimpse of tho ocean, and tho rise and fall of breakers crashing on tho bar. Over Cornwall and Puponga, a long, dark wooded promontory pushing far out into tho shallow blue of the Manukau, rises the sharp peak of Huia Hill, and then the gaze lifts high to tho Waitakero Ranges, Hills of Sunset, sentinols of the gates of tho west. Milo upon mile they

FAIR CITY BETWEEN

run in unspoiled splendour, their high peaks sharp against the clear morning sky, valley and ridgo and spur still clothed with magnificent nativo bush. Heavy toll has been taken of this forest treasure in the past; all the foothills have been denuded, great tracts of bush have completely disappeared as tho mills of early days havo taken into their insatiablo maw tho mighty kauris and other giants of tho bush. But tho heights remain untouched, and tho greater portion of this forest heritage is now rigidly preserved. Beneath tho hills lie tho outer districts of Hillsborough and Waikowhai, with their wide green fields, New Lynn with its tall brick-works chimney stacks, and farther round in tho circling panorama the orchard lands, vinoyards and farms of Henderson, Glen Eden, Swanson and Greenhithe. Like a silver spear is the thrust of those shining waters into the level shores of tho upper reaches of the harbour. Tho Waitemata widens out as it follows the sweep of tho shoreline down to Point Chevalier and lTeruo Bay, and then comes the blue-and-silver dazzle of tho narrow strip between Auckland City and Birkenhead, Northcote, Bavswator and Devonport. Tho ferry boats aro little toys speeding across tho shining pathway; beyond Mount Victoria and North Head, and the thick-cluster-ing homos of tho suburbs across the water, lies tho wider sea passage of Itangitoto Channel, and then tho gaze sweeps out and up to Tiri, over tho long rapier-thrust of Whangaparaoa Peninsula, to tho dim and rugged outline of tho Great and Little Barriers. And embracing

all tho beauty of silver seas and dimpling islands of tho gulf is peerless Rangitoto, guardian of the Waitcinata, tho perfect symmetry of its triple peak, its wide-sweeping arms and heavily-wooded slopes giving charm and beauty to one of the most interesting volcanic cones in the world.

Truly a magnificent panorama, holding in liill and sea and distant shore the history of this outpost of Empire. Maori, missionary, trader, pioneer—all in turn have come in warcanoe and old-time sailing craft from lands far over the rim of the ocean, to play their part in moulding the destiny of this land of tho southern seas. The little wind that sighs among the pines on the hilltop sighed 100 years ago in the branches of the sacred totara that gave to Maungakiekie its present name. Generations of Maori and pakeha have come and gone and in centuries yet to come, men and women will mako pilgrimage to the hilltop to view this glorious panorama, and to pay homage to that first pakeha viewer, one whoso high-souled munificence to his adopted city is forever commemorated in the inscription carved on his solitary tomb on the hilltop: " Jf you seek his monument, look around."

A 7 the close of 1841 Auckland had an estimated population of 1500. The growth of Auckland City proper is shown by the following figures: 1861, 7989; 1871, 12,937; 1881, 16,664; 1891, 28,613; 1901, 34,213; 1911, 40,536; 1921, 83,467; 1931, 105,600. The later totals include the population of suburban districts which amalgamated with the city. The estimated population of the metropolitan area in 1932 was 218,400.