MILLINERY REVOLUTION

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXX, Issue 21462, 8 April 1933, Page 6 (Supplement)

MILLINERY REVOLUTION

NEW SHINING FABRICS BLUE AS A COLOUR NOTE [special to n.z. herald—copyright] LONDON. Feb. 17 Hats always seem more or less mad at this season of the year, but frankly, some of the newest models in Paris are ridiculous, and I cannot imagine any English woman with a sense of humour wearing them. _ Smoli and shallow, and set with a slant across the forehead, exposing most of the back of the head, they are the most difficult shapes I have seen for years. Funny little _ gnomelike caps made of waxed satin, and ribbon toques rising to a point on the crown; and, strangest of all, the " topper " made of white starched muslin or shiny black straw braid. So much for Paris millinery, but I think wo are more likely to choose similar ideas, but with the great dif-

ference that our models will lit on to and look part of the head, instead of perching precariously on top of the hair.

Yesterday I saw some exquisite model hats designed specially for a collection of dresses. All of these had shallow crowns and very small brims, but they definitely fitted on to the head and were charming. Crowns aro flatter and squarer, and most brims are inclined to turn up at the back. There may be a suggestion of the sideway tilt, but it must bo forward and not backward. A few women in London are wearing their plain felt berets flat and straight on the head with a forward tilt. This may look new, but usually the result is humorous, which is not the most desired effect to create. So, when choosing a new hat, get a good view of yourself sideways and at tho back, for no one wants to look a " figure of fun " even in a Paris hat.

Personally, I think the next few weeks will see many modifications of these new styles, which, by their very " extremeness," will accustom our eyes to a revolutionary trend in millinery which, since the advent of the postwar cloche, pressed down over the first close-cropped heads, has been all enveloping. "Women have got so used to the tops of their heads touching the crowns of their hats, and for several years every hair was tucked out of sight, that they had to be gently led down a new path, and so all tlie hats were put well off the forehead to show the hair in front.

But with the change in shoulder silhouettes this did not look well, and in order to tilt the hat forward crowns became shallow. This season they have developed further and have a squarer look, which is much more attractive than a crown that looked like half an orange. With a shallow, square crown and a slight sweep up at the back of the brim, the hat can still touch the top-of the haad and yet show plenty of well-dressed hair. Materials—Waxed and Shiny The new spring fashions will show the greatest change in materials. Every season experts evolve new effects with silks, woollens and cottons, and so dress designers will suddenly decide to have all dull surfaces large patterns and smooth effects. This year materials with a dull " matt " surface have lost their popularity, especially for evening wear. Satins, nets, and chiffons are waxed or shiny. If a dull-surfaced material is used it is brightened by a large sash bow or other trimming of waxed ribbon, etc. Whole dresses of black lacquered satin are striking, and handsome on a slim woman. Jewels or a single white flower should bo tho only trimming on such gowns. Black and coloured lacquered satins are used for elaborate blouses or waistcoats with woollen suits", and quite a number of hats are made or trimmed with these shiny lacquered fabrics. But " all is not gold that glistens," and only the slim woman should adventure into these highly-polished fabrics. Let the heavy woman and those inclined to plumpness stick to. dull crepes and chiffons, which luckily are still included in the best collections. Double chiffon in two colours worked with tailored simplicity is one of the most becoming mediums for the outsize eveniug gown that I have seen this season. In two shades of grey or beige, you will have an up-to-the-minute gown which helps a full figure, where the fashionable lacquered fabrics will only show up curves you desire to remain hidden. Blue and Flame Colour combinations also sound a new note, and flame-red with blue sounds extraordinary, but can look enchanting. A suit of flame-red Shetland woollen fabric had an underblousts of powder blue wool crepe, with separate scarf to match, to tie in a bow under the chin. A two-piece suit of gentian blue had the back and draped front of the bodice flame-red, with blue sleeves, skirt and coat. Blues of all shades are extremely good thig season, and I specially liked a two-piece ensemble that had a coat and dress of dark powder blue, with the draped front of the bodice of blue and grey check. The little hat had a check crown and brim of the dark blue, following a fashion which is growing in smart circles for a hat to be definitely made for each costume. A charming idea if tho allowance will run to it, and in these specially-coloured ensembles it gives a very smart finish.