MODERN FURRIERS

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIX, Issue 21314, 15 October 1932, Page 6 (Supplement)

MODERN FURRIERS

NEED OF IMAGINATION HIGHER WAISTLINES [SPECIAL 10 N.Z. HERALD —COPYRIGHT] LONDON, Sept. 8 We have long since ceased to consider furs as merely useful garments to keep out the cold. Thanks to the art of modern furriers, who totally ignore seasons, furs follow the fashion as rapidly as frocks and coats, and, like hats, are the advance guard of new season modes. AH the same, one needs imagination and a placid temperament to display an intelligent interest in even the loveliest furs during the heat wave conditions we are now enduring. However, some are so delicately fashioned, both as to weight and colour, as to give a semblance of summer lightness which is disarming. Little ermino sets of turn-down collar and bow tie—ideal for dark woollen coatfrocks. Soft short scarves for suits and collarless coats. Luxurious high collars for day and evening coats, with half sleeves, or sleeve muffs to match, and long flat stoles to wind round the throat. The Paris collections show that capes of all .lengths are to be fashionable. Immediately, the furrier produces exquisite models, varying in length and size from the tiny pelerine to the below-the-waist length cape, reminiscent of the gay nineties. The short coat and tiny fur jacket will find many devotees. They are youthful and chic, and less costly than full-length models; also a marvellous way of using up the best parts of a good fur coat, that shows signs of wear in the vital spots. For evening wear a sleeveless jacket to waist, with an elbow length cape that fastens across at one side with a large button is extremely smart; another, a small waist length coatee, double-breasted and with long sleeves and stand-up military collar, made of pony skin. This was worn over a dress of beige woollen fabric, with a sleeveless three-quarter coat over the fur jacket, making a fascinating three-piece ensemble to suit all weathers. The amazing drop in fur prices has brought luxurious silver fox skins within the reach of quite modest purses, and as many autumn suits are lavishly trimmed with fiat furs and cloth top-coats have important fur collars we shall all welcome the lower prices. After hats and furs, the earliest autumn fashions to be shown are new sports clothes. At first glance, good sports wear does not seem to have changed its classic appearance very much. The same perfection of cut and fabric distinguishes it from the cheaper types of mass production. But certainly waistlines are a little higher and ribs are wrapped more closely than formerly, and the light topped vogue has found its way into active sports clothes as well as afternoon and evening wear. • Materials feel rough and look rugged, but are deceptively light in weight, especially the soft cashmere woollens, and the almost " downy " Angoras, so much iu evidence for jumpers and sweaters. Many of the newest sports materials have a hand-woven look about them, and diagonal patterns share popularity with vertically ribbed and basket weaves. Raisin brown is a new and attractive version of the favourite brown of dutumn; it has a decided purplish tinge in it exactly like the raisin that is infinitely becoming t<? most complexions. A' new material, called " Elephant's Ear," is a crinkly woollen in an intriguing purply-grey colour. Grey is receiving a good deal of attention from the designers this season, and most of the successes are with these."off" shades of grey. As with white —" off-white " that has a tinge of pink ivory or blue, these colours in chifron, velour, panne, will be great favourites for evening dresses of the long, slinky description, as well as for tunics for afternoon dresses. We have had silks made to look like woollens, and woollens to imitate silk. The newest knitted things are all getting to look, like actual materials, such as tweeds, hopsack, etc. While materials are endeavouring to look like knitted things, especially the gay striped fabrics. The wrap-oVer dress has definitely arrived this season. It may fasten at the back, if you prefer, but it is easier and often more attractive to have the opening in front, with buttons or clips, or some patent fastening to add interest and act as a trimming. Another revival is the Raglan sleeve, which is showing on morning, afternoon, and evening coats. This is more important than it appears at first sight, for it is one of the reasons why those " jaunty " lines have passed. But after all, jauntiness appeals to only one section of the women who are searching for becoming clothes. The older woman who has been neglected in recent years will find the new fashion very easy to wear. The high waist, for example, need worry no one, for there are many ingenious variations of it. London designers have carefully studied this vexed line with the idea of adapting it to the English figure. On some models it droops at the back to a little below the normal waist, other waist belts are adjustable to any figure. With the Raglan sleeve have arrived the three-quarter coat, and the longish jacket which passes the hips, often collarless, and demanding one of the many new kinds of " fur pieces," scarves or capes.