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HEDGES AND SCREENS

GIANT-GROWING BAMBOOS iBamboos of various heights are specially adapted for hedges and screens. The giant-growing vulgaris makes an impenetrable breakwind for the orchard. A specimen shelter hedge of this species may be Seen at one of the Avondale nurseries. It is cattle and boy proof, and does not harbour insects —a special recommendation in connection with orchard trees. Bambusa Japonica or Motake, a very hardy and easily-grown species has been long in cultivation in Auckland, and recently has been extensively grown in the Waiuku district where it provides adequate shelter from the strongest winds. It thrives in the swampy soil and is easily propagated from the suckers, and is suitable for planting on the sides of the deep ditches or watercourses. OTHER HORTICULTURAL USES Bamboos for bean, pea, and stakes for flowers and young trees, are clean, hard, and rigid, and are excellent material for this class of work. They last for a long time if taken up and stored in a dry, airy shed. Every flower and vegetable garden absorbs a large number of stakes of various sizes. Good fishing rods may be obtained from some of the species. In America bamboo poles are used for knocking prunes, almonds and nuts from the branches of the trees. PLANTING AND PROPAGATION The spring months are best suited for transplanting the different species of bamboos. For the production of garden stakes the suckering kinds, notably Japonica and other Japanese varieties are the most suitable. Clumps may bo established in some out-of-the-way corner that will yield a regular supply of stakes in various sizes. The chief methods of propagation are by splitting or dividing the clumps of the non-suckerers, or by cutting off and planting the rhizomes or underground stems. The rareness of seeds render propagation in this manner slow. Cuttings of some of the kinds will strike if planted in a moist, loose soil. The species nana aurea may be propagated from cuttings. The species vulgaris is best increased by digging out established clumps and splitting them up. Other methods are too slow. CLIMBING PLANTS The planting of climbing roses, wistarias, deciduous begonias, deciduous clematises, and the different varieties of ampelopsis, periploca graeca and Mandovillea suaveolens may now be proceeded with. Wistarias should be pruned by cutting off long trailing shoots from the base of the plants, and by thinning, regulating, and tying up the remaining growths. Evergreen climbers are mostly pot grown. The planting of the different varieties should be deferred until the atmosphere becomes warmer and the soil drier. Planted now, they make no growth and are liable to go off from the wet, cold state of the soil or because of slugs. TO CORRESPONDENTS " Subscriber."—The apples aro a very highly-coloured lat« fruit of the Scarlet Pearmain, a well known, highly flavoured dessert apple. M.H., Waiheke.—The specimen is Olearia Foreterii, a very hardy New Zealand shrub, specially adapted for exposed positions near the sea, is close growing:, and clips well. " Subscriber," Morrinsville.—Self - sown seedlings of nectarines now 3ft. high if cut about half back and replanted will bear fruits. The variety goldmine frequently rei produces the parent type from its stones. A.R.P,, Tangowahine.—The thick dead portion of stem of apple tree is not caused by any bacterial disease. "Without further particulars it is difficult to account for the occurrence. It may possibly be root fungus. L.8., Te Awamutu.—You write with reference to peach trees that have died back and left only some new ehoots. If the trees are old they are not worth leaving. If young cut all the dead portions off and cut the youns ehoote half back. A.M., Warkworth.—The geranium leaves aro affected with a .species of shot hole fungus. Pull the diseased leaves off and epray with ec.luble sulphur. The leaves of the primrose appear to be affected with a species of fungus. Pull some of the outer leaves off and spray with sulphur, solution. F.M.8., Remuera.—Daffodils planted around apple tree would be harmful in some extent in that they would exclude the free circulation of air and prevent the manuring and loosening the soil around the tree. Much depends upon how closely together the daffodils are pi ant id and how near to the stem of the apple. " Wistaria," Kumeu.—Cut off nil long wisteria suckers from the base and shorten back other leading shoots and give it another year's trial. If it fails to flower out it back and graft a true Multijecca scion upon it. Flowers of Rhus Cotinus failing to open and develop the hairy pedicles after flowering is unaccountable excepting that the eoil und position may be unsuitable. " Onibn," Waikato.—Onions requiro an open, sunny situation and will not succeed where the branches of trees completely overhang the plot. 3lb. of sulphate of potash to 51b. of super would be u safe mixture to apply. A licht sprinkling along the rows. Nitrate should bo applied during the spring in threo applications along each row. R.M.D., To Puke.—Nutgrass under orange trees cannot be treated without killing the oranges. Where it exists away from trees or near other plants make holes about Cm. deep and pour in kerosene. This has proved effective. Spraying with a 6trong solution of sodium chlorate when the now growth starts will be effective in killing the tops and penetrating to affect the stems. The nuts are the trouble, being difficult to destroy by artificial methods. " Rocky Bay," Waiheke.—Gooseberries nro subject to borer and aro difficult to treat owing to the prickly naturo of tho plant and the borer grub boing in the el em. Spraying the bushes with a strong solution of Gishurst's compound would bo a partial preventative. In pruning established bushes tho spurs should be retained and strong, wellripened ehoots of the previous summer, us far as possible, should roplnco old wood which does not bear fruits. Shorten back the leading shoots one third. 8.P., Longbtirn.—The potatoes tire:—l. Up-to-date. 2. Majestic. 3. Iron Duke. 4. Epicure. Best varieties for clay soil are Arran Chief. Northern Star and Gold Coin. Suitable manure when planting is a sprinkling of blood and bone along the drills, and and at the earthing-up time eome blood and bone with a little potash elong the rows. Another fertiliser may consist of Sib. of super_ 2lb. of sulphate of ammonia and 3lb. of kainit por 40 equare yards, or 3oz. of this mixture per yard, of each row. Mrs. A.N.M., Wanganui.—You write regarding violet plants, the leaves of which are turning rusty yellow and shrivelling. Red spider has caused the damage. It is generally troublesome during a hot, dry summer. Plant a new bed in October. Obtain rooted suckers. In preparing tho ground apply a liberal dressing of basic slag. Give the plants room to develop. Mulch during tho summer with broken-up cowdung or well decomposed manure and keep tho runners cut off. An occasional watering in the evening during dry periods is advisable. " Amateur," Bay of Plenty. —Tho names of a few suitable ornamental flowering shrubs not to grow more than 2ft. or 3ft. high may comprise the following:—Adenandra, uniflora, aucumba, Japonica variegata, azaleas (dwarf varieties), Berberis Darwinii. {hinhea platycentra, Diosma orecoides. Feicia angustifolia, ericas of sorts, hydrangeas (new dwarf varieties), Libonia floribunda, Lantana chelseagem. Deutzia gracilis, Punica nan, fl. pi. spiraea, Anthony Waterer. Veronica diosmoefolia and other dwarf varieties, Agatlieu coelestis, Statica macrophylla. Orevillea dallachiana, ornamental grass, Miscanthus nepalensis (Himalayan fairy grass), and the red and white daphnes. Kepos< •

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Bibliographic details

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIX, Issue 21248, 30 July 1932, Page 8 (Supplement)

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1,239

HEDGES AND SCREENS New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIX, Issue 21248, 30 July 1932, Page 8 (Supplement)

HEDGES AND SCREENS New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIX, Issue 21248, 30 July 1932, Page 8 (Supplement)