SO THIS IS TRAVEL.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVIII, Issue 20898, 13 June 1931, Page 1 (Supplement)

SO THIS IS TRAVEL.

PEEPS INTO PARIS, BY L. C. LESLEY HOUSE. To leave Victoria Station for New Haven on a balmy day in September, and embark oil a dirty littlo French boat that is dipping and splashing on a cobalt sea, is rather a rude awakening. Something of the glamour of the famous French capital will fade away. All of the romance that made Paris so fascinating, tho Revolution, tho Bastille, the Louis' and the Huguen'ots, will die. If you cling tenaciously to the memory of the strains of the Marseillaise it may help you! Happily, mal do raer is merely transitory, and great elan you will set forth to drink in as much as you can of the truly " gay Paree. There is so much to see in Paris, and to see properly without rushing through on a tour, that in your two or three weeks you will probably get a littlo bewildered. You will not live half tho night, because tho night life of Paris is an incidental. It is tho ravishing sights of a ravishing city you wish to seo, and they will bo absorbed as a student absorbs a vital subject, appealing immediately to the intelligence. Paris can claim a wide sweep of clean roads, and it is amazing to see tho traffic whirl by. The rushing of taxis and motors is alarming, and there appears to be no speed limit in Paris. Were a pedestrian to be knocked down, be would simply bo told ho w.is in the way. That is true to a degree since tho road traffic is so well organised. All night long tho whirl and noise of traffic goes endlessly on. Carts pass slowly with their jangling bells, and peoplo can be heard talking and laughing in light merriment. Ono wonders if tho French peoplo aro over dull or miserable. It must have been just in such a manner that they went dauntlessly to the guillotine! Beggars will stand mute, but, with appealing eyes, ask you for alms as you pass them on the steps of St. Madeleine. Tho beggars of London aro far more numerous, but they have not that utterly dejected and outcast expression. No, you cannot forget the beggars of Paris. The Boulevards. Along the boulevards, a fair way, where numerous cafes display themselves in a sang-froid manner, is tho Expiatory Chapel. This is a very interesting sight, and stands on a sito which was onco a beautiful garden. It was hero'that King Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette were executed, and they arc buried on the spot where their proud heads fell. The boulevards of Paris are particularly enticing. There is always that endless stream of interesting humanity, and it will bo seen how exceedingly smart is the Parisian. Even the femmes fiom shop and workroom arc exceptionally j smart in their attire, and thero is just that littlo trick of knowing how to dress that so distinguishes the French woman. Along these boulevards restful scats aro dotted, and beautiful avenues of trees givo pleasant shade such as Avenue Gabriel and the Champs Elysec. In the Champs Elysee stands tho wonderful Arch do Triompbc. This arch is one hundred and sixty-two feet high and ono hundred and forty-seven feet in width, and the parade at the top affords a glorious view of the surrounding city. Underneath this arch France's Unknown Warrior lies in honoured burial, and a fire is constantly burning which gives out a warm and ruddy glow. " Local Colour.'' The Place do la Concorde is a beautiful parade, and lies right in the heait J of tho busy thoroughfares. It is a j picture of statuary, of beautiful squares I and graceful fountains. This is a wonderful sweep of traffic-way, and at night is brilliantly effective. TheTuileries, quito near, aro gardens of absolute delight. Trees and flowers of glowing hues flourish in the very joy of their beauty, and statues stand liko sentinels around. Tho ornamental ponds and superb fountains are cool and- peaceful adornments. A flash of memory conveys to us that the actual Tuilcries were ' burned in tho siego and Commune of 1871. , , Up at Montmarto such places as Heaven, Hell and tho Chat Noir attract tourists with their fantastic settings. But the really true 'French Montmartrois has to be sought in little cafes and restaurants of the quarter, where he eats cheaply, liko a true Bohemian, and is entertained by strolling minstrels and jugglers. Foreigners looking for local S colour " frequently visit these places^ Another place for " local colour" is along the Quais. Here, quaint conversation and much gesticulation take place r as the lover of old books bargains a r littlo to get, tho prices lower. The C . little bookstalls which lino the bank of r tho Seine are interesting and most e picturesque. Also the patient anglers who sit hour upon hour, dangling their bait, givo an added interest to this ' popular walk. One angler may sit dejected, sorrowful, as though lifo and death depended upon a bite, and another, 0 singing some old ditty, will assure you that love and fish are tho only things that matter from dawn to nightfall. Aladdin's Hour. n Practically every quarter of Paris has 3 its own market. You may buy even a ' nice, fresh lettuce, jugged lizard, cognac, 0 oysters, gingerbread, truffles, ewe's milk n cheese, lark pies, duck's liver with s grapes, or caviarre—surely delicacies for e all fastidious tastes! Arnold Bennett s often frequented the famous and cele--0 brated market in Rue Lcpic. Of course you will visit the Opera, !" and whether it be "La Tosca " or the 1S charming and tragic " Louise,' 1 it matter? , s not. This theatre is magnificent, and is the grand staircase is simply a master- '' piece of architecture and artistic decoraII tion. The exquisite old chandeliers, the '■ brilliant lights and the groups of coloured ' r dancers arc bewitching. llien you will emerge from this beautiful place at mid--10 night and be pestered by the suave Indian, i" selling Oriental wares—carpets, mosaic :s trinkets, jade, amber, cloisonne, ivory n elephants and oruato necklaces, i- Paris is brilliant and bewitching at this 0 hour. It is Aladdin's hour, and all d Paris is at tho zenith of its pleasure. I. Men and women are strolling along the >* boulevards, or wending their way to some ill cabaret, and cabarets of the best class s are situated in the Opera quarter, anc tho gourmets make revel in some Rus ;t sian establishment. In tho Bois do is Boulogne is tho famous Pro Catolin 'e where ono has the delightful illusion ip of being far out in some lovely country le side. ir Such is Paris, merry and sad, bul with always a smile for the traveller.