THE HOME GARDEN. THE ROCK GARDEN. VEGETABLE CROPS. TO CORRESPONDENTS.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVII, Issue 20668, 13 September 1930, Page 5 (Supplement)

THE HOME GARDEN.

THE ROCK GARDEN.

VEGETABLE CROPS.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

PROGRAMME OF WORK.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

SCOPE FOR SELECTION.

The annual renovation of rock gardens thould now receive attention. Alterations in some form or other are generally necessary. Somo of the permanent shrubs, that have grown too large, may require to bo removed. Mesembryanthemums, gazanias, crassulas, venidinms and several others that have become too old, must be taken out and freshly struck cuttings replanted. In every instance where old plants have been taken out, some of the old soil should be removed and replaced with a fresh compost mixed with suitable fertilisers. In a few instances, some of the plants ■%yill be benefitted by being dug out and a little fresh compost added. With others a top-dressing will be sufficient, adding where' necessary a little -fine bonedust or a weak application of sulphate of ammonia. Ivy-leaved and zonal pelargoniums will require to bo cut back and also a few of the permanent shrubs, that have outgrown their allotted spaces, gedjjras and any other dwarf-growing plants that have encroached into other spaces must also be kept within bounds.

1 CHOICE ROCK GARDEN PLANTS.

Few features in the garden provide Such interest as «% woll laid out and judiciously planted rock garden. The greatest variety of plants may be com prised in a very small space. The following brief list of varieties are all suited to our local conditions. A few of these nre likely to be affected by severe frosts, but precautions to protect them may be easily adopted. Mesembryanthemums, in about six distinct colours, should have a place in every rockery. Campanulas carpathica, Persicifolia and other varieties with bell-shaped blue and white flowers are most attractive. Sedums or stonecrops, may be obtained in many varieties. These charming plants are indispensable in every rockery. > Aubretias, produce great masses of bloom, in several colours. They aro of dwarf compact habit. Heeria elegans rosea, forms dense mats over the soil, bearing a profusion of rosecoloured flowers. This is one of the best of all rock--plants for our climate. It is slightly tender. Lithospermum prostratum, gentian blue", of trailing habit. Gazania, of sorts, well-known,' brilliant coloured flowers. Venidium calendnlaceum, with trailing nhowy orange flowers. Saxifraga exist in numerous beautiful varieties. Free-flowering crassifolia is a very hardy sort. Nepeta mussini (cab mint), has lavender blue flowers. Sisyriiichiurn is, an exceedingly pretty dwarf species with iris-like flowers. Crassula coccinea, bears lovely heads of brilliant scarlet flowers and resists dry • weather. Erigeron speciouis (the midsummer daisy), bears large, clear mauve flowers, with golden centres. Dianthus' alpinus (rock pink), has flowers nf a deep rose. ('erastiurn (snow in summer), is a trailing plant, with beautiful silvery foliage. ifeuchera sanguines, has scarlet or crimson flowers. Phlox flowers are pure white and very pretty. Cyclamens of sorts, aro well-known bullions plants. Oenotheras, are exceedingly showy, dwarf growing plants with rose-coloured blossoms. Lihertia' ixioides, is a native species. It grows in tufts and produces loose panicles of white flowers. Gpums, scarlet and yellow, aro very attractive. •Myssiums, arc beautiful, early spring, flowering plants. -Arthropodiurn cirraturn, the New Zealand rock lily, produces large spikes ol preltv while (lowers. Arineria cep.-tlotos (thrift), bears heads of rose-coloured flowers. Corivolvolus niaurilanicus, is a fine rock plant, with violet .blue flowers, of trailing habit. Yittadcnia tricolor, is a most floriferous plant, with daisy-like flowers. Polygonum repens, must be kept in control, and will not stand hard frosts. I«int;ma Chelsea gem and others, are Vetv showy (lowers. They are tender. riatycndon grandiflorum, or the Chelsea bell (lowers. Ihe varieties above named arc all perennials, mostly, of dwarf habit and easily kepi within their allotted spaces, 'he few stronger trailing and spreading kinds, must have their growths regulated.

PELARGONIUMS.

I'or covering banks, planting at intervals in the tock garden and border, training against, walls and intermixing in the hedgerow, the ivy-leaved pelargonium makes a, brilliant display for several months They are splendid dry weather Mibjerts. and . bear a profusion of flower 3 "t a time when other flowers are not in plentiful supply. The dwarf varieties, of which there are quite, a number of single and double-flowered kinds, are most suitable for the rockery, and the climbing varieties for arches, trellises, and the hedgerows, etc. They are healthy growers and keep immune from the rust.

These pelargoniums are easily propoRated from cuttings. The spring season >s the most .suitable for planting them. J hey will succeed in almost any so'il and lT| exposed open positions. There are a number of choice -named varieties, single find double-flowered. Hit; present is also a suitable time for planting the different varieties of zonale pelargoniums that make such a splendid summer display. They are of the easiest SBltivatipn.

The soil is still too cold and wet and the temperature too changeable to admit the planting of any of the mora tender seedlings such as zinnias, celosias, salpiglossis, etc. Cannas may bo divided out and planted into their summer quarters in the mixed border or in separate beds; a few are suitable lor places in the rock border. Prepare ground lor chrysanthemums by deeply digging, leaving the surface rough. Apply a liberal dressing of lime, say 10 days before planting, about the middle of next month. Dahlias placed under glass with a little bottom heat will have started. Cut off the shoots when 2in. long and place them in pot 3 or in shallow trays to strike. Japanese irises should be planted at once. Arrange them in clumps or in rows. Keep the crowns level with the surface, which should be slightly hollowed to admit of copious waterings during the growing and flowering period. Perennial delphiniums, phlox, Michaelmas daisies, heleniums, goldenglows, goldenrods, sunflowers, and other herbaceous perennials should be planted at once into their places in the borders. * passion-fruit should now be be planted. Select wellgrown pot plants or balled-up and established plants that have been grown in the open ground. Sow under glass seeds ol scarlet salvias, petunias, phlox, African and French marigolds, salplglossis, zinnias, coreopisis, etc. Bed out 10-week stocks, larkspurs, antirrhinums, nomesias, dimorphotheca, columbines and other suitable seedlings.

PROTECTION FROM PESTS.

Probably at no other season of the year are slugs and snails more numerous, or do greater damago to young seedling crops, than during the present month. Although both slugs and snails attack a wide variety of plants, they arc keen epicufes in their taste. Some seedling crops, especially, quickly fall a prey to these pssts, such, for instance, as young seedling carrots, turnips, lettuces, cabbage and other colworts. dwarf and runner beans, and other delicate subjects. It is doubtful, however, j.f there is any more difficult crop to save at this season than young seedling carrots, as slugs appear to leave almost any other crops to attack these plants. One grower informed the writer a few days ago that he had twice sown and successfully raised plants until they were well above ground, but in two nights they had practically all disappeared. It is for this reason that the writer has advised slightly raised beds for raising carrots, for by occasionally sprinkling lime, or a light sprinkling of superphosphate around every side of the bed, this will protect the plants from these pests. The free use of lime, soot, woodashes, and the judicious use of superphosphate between the rows of plants subject to the attack of these pests will do much to protect the crops from their ravages, though in applying the super care should be taken to keep it from the foliage.

ASPARAGUS BEDS.

New beds or plots that have been prepared for asparagus should now be planted. The best time to plant is as soon as the young plants have made an inch or two of growth, as when planted at this time they quickly make fresh roots and soon become established. In every case, care must be. taken to keep the roots covered and moist until the planting is completed. Provided the beds have been prepared sft. in width, three rows can be planted without being in any way overcrowded. First, draw a wide, flat drill along the centre of the bed, deep enough to allow of the crown being covered with 3in. to 4in. of good soil, according to the nature of the ground, the plf.nts being arranged 18in. apart. The two outside rows can be arranged 18in. or 20in. from the centre row and be planted in the same way. The ultimate success of the crops depends very largely upon the way the beds or plots have been treated. A wellprepared asparagus bed will continue to produce satisfactory crops for years, providing reasonable attention is given in keeping the plots free from weeds, and particularly in applying suitable fertiliser and mulching at the proper season.

SUCCESSIONAL SOWINGS,

As almost every variety of vegetables can be sown and planted during the present and succeeding months, the aiin of every grower should .bo to so regulate the sowings that a succession of crops will be maintained, sowing as nearly as possible-the quantities needed to meet household requirements, and not in such quantities as will admit of waste. In the cultivation of early crops there is no part of the garden that requires more attention in the way of manuring and cultivation than the vegetable garden. For early crops, especially, the ground should be placed in the best possible condition that will ensure the rapid germination of the seed and growth of crops. In sowing seeds at this season, especially any of tho smaller seeds, a good plan is t.o havo somo good, sifted soil [or covering tho seeds in the drills.

TOMATO PLANTS,

Tomatoes (hat are being raised for later planting should lie pricked out as soon as they show their rough leav.es, placing the plants in shallow boxes filled with good soil. A few early-raised, wellhardened plants may ho planted in any warm, sheltered position. Little is gained, howgver, in planting so early in the open ground, unless in very favourable situations, such as against a warm, sunny fence or wall that. will.afford protection from cold southerly winds and late frosts. Kerosene tins cut in half and placed over the plants afford a fairly safe protection for theso and other tender subjects until they become sufficiently hardened to stand exposure.

ATTENTION TO RHUBARB.

In planting fresh plots of rhubarb the ground cannot be too deeply worked and well manured. Old beds that show signs of exhaustion should be taken up, and if necessary bo divided and be transferred to fresh ground. With tho exception of the non-seeding varieties, however, strong one-year-old plants of Myatt's Victoria is the best summer rhubarb to plant. In planting, keep tho crown level with the surface, as in deeply-worked, well-manured ground the crown has always a tendency to sink below the surface.

CUCUMBERS AND MARROWS.

Cucumbers, marrows and other plants that have been raised in pots in hot beds, or green house, should, as soon as they show their rough leaves, be gradually exposed and hardened off in readiness for planting out later in the mi"

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

Take every advantage of fine weather to hoe or dig over the ground among growing crops. Keeping a loose surface has a wonderful efiect upon the growth of seedling crops. Attend to the thinning of seedling crops, in no case allowing the plants to remain crowded, so as to weaken and injure the plants required for the crop. In sowing or planting, a line should in every case be used, as it affords better facilities for working the soil, weeding and thinning out of the crops. Make sowings ol peas, beans, turnips, carrots, parsnips, onions, spinach, beets, lettuce, parsley, radishes, mustard and cress. Plant out cabbages, potato onions, lettuce, silver beet and other crops. Manure and prepare ground lor cucumbers, marrows, melons and similar crops. Plant out a low well-hardened tomatoes in a warm, sheltered position. Carefully wa,tch and protect seedling crops that are just coming through the soil. In addition to keeping the soil frequently stirred, frequent dustings with lime, soot or other effective slug destroyers should be applied. The planting ol rhubarb should no longer be delayed, as young plants are starting to make rapid growth. Though still early for sowing French and runner beans, a sowing made in a warm, sheltered position may produce an early crop. A sowing of celery should be made for early planting. This is best raised in shallow boxes filled with fairly rich sifted soil.

H.R.K.. Otahuhu.—lceland. poppies, as per sample plant sent, nre affected by moist weather. The damping: otf is u common occurrence, especially with those that were planted very early and have grown into strong chimps 'J. here is no remedy. The damping should not, occur in well-drained. light soils, with sunny open aspect.

W.T., To Awamutu.—A good top-dressing for onions consists of 3lb. of kainit and slb. of superphosphate per 40 square yards, with a light application of nitrate of soda along the rows when the young plants have become well established. Stable manure that has been burned in the heap has lo.it the nitrogen, but is valuable for mixing with the soil in the onion bed.

C.H.W.. Bonny Glen.—The black wattle (Acacia decurrens) is easily distinguished

from the silver variety (Acacia denlbata). The silver wattle has silvery-grey foliage, which is smaller than the black, which has a dark-green foliage, with larger leaveß. Both kinds nre useful for their timber for fencing posts, etc.

S.F., Point Chevalier.—For analysis of your soil apply to the Department of Agriculture. Your inability to grow so many plants successfully must be a deficiency of lime in the soil. The absolute necessity of lime aB a soil constituent for fertility and the food of plants cannot be overlooked. An even distribution of slaked lime of fioz. per square yard would most likely render your soil productive. Basic slag, about lib. per square yard, dug in during early winter, would prove successful. K.C.H., Tatipo.—The samples of tea-tree aro very badly affected with scale insects. The shrub with small, white berries (C'yathodes acerosa) is also very subject to scales that gave the black sooty substance on the leaves and stems. Spraying with the caustic soda-alkali wash is about, the best remedy. This would he difficult if, the tea-tree is plentiful. A species of fungus that surrounds with a white ring and seals the scales down, preventing tho escape of the young broods, has proved most effective locally on many shrubs in cleansing them of scale insects.

" Perplexed," Remuera.—The colour of tho different varieties of hydrangeas are governed by soil constituents. To maintain the true pink, lime must bo freely incorporated with the soil around the plants. To secure the blues, work in tho soil about Ulb. of powdered alum, or add sulphate of iron, about one handful to every two yards, as it is necessary to have the soil in an ucid condition. The whites reproduce true to colour. The new varieties are now so numerous 'that it is difficult to keep them true to colour.

M., Birkenhead.—l. Nitrate of soda may lie used as a liquid spray (o dress fruit trees beneficially. The portion that fulls upon tho ground would act as a fertiliser. As lo the strength, a much stronger solution could be used when- the trees are dormant. Just as the bads are swelling in' the spring would be the best time to apply this solution. '2. Nitrate of soda in small doses is a valuable stimulant to assist the growth of plants in tho spring. Never put on more than lib. per 40 square yards, and apply it at intervals of from two lo six weeks. As a liquid, use loz. to the gallon of water. 3. For rhubarb, lib. nitrate of Boda per 40 square yards would be a liberal dressing, or a light sprinkling around each plant. 1. Eggshell cases are often used lo raise sweet peas in. one seed lo each. Broken-tip eggshells are valuable to mix with the soil for potting adiantum ferns in. "Maude," Dargaville.—l. Plums are worked upon wildings. The suckers from the roots would be useful for working good varieties by budding or grafting upon them, but not for fruiting. 0. Some of the Japanese varieties of plums bear the second year after budding or grafting. Tho European kinds take mostly about five years and over. Damsons fruit much earlier. 3. Plum trees in heavy bearing should receive a dressing of basic slag in the autumn, followed by super ill the spring., Some kainit may be applied with the slag. A dressing of nitrate of soda, lewt. per acre, just before the blooms open, facilitates the setting. Farmyard manure is always beneficial. 4. Stones from Satsuma plums will vary greatly. A few may reproduce true. They will take about five years to fruit from stones. 5. A good grafting was may be made from four parts of resin, two parts of tallow and one part of beeswax. Kepos.