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THE GREENHOUSE.

FLOWERING PLANTS.

Tho season is again approaching/when many of tho most profuse and effective summer and autumn flowering plants such as tuberous rooted begonias, achimenes, gloxinias, and others will soon bo showing signs of decay. Few plants that are of comparatively easy culture produce such a diversity of colouring and sizo of flower for greenhouse decoration as the begonia. • Many of tho shrubby varieties too, are extremity pretty. Some of tho more pendulous varieties make valuable specimens grown in baskets, producing an abundance Of flowers of various shades of colour. TJp to tho present thero has been no lack of blossom, for while such prolific flowering plants are in season they make such a brilliant display -as to meet all requirements. As the season advances, however, and the temperature decreases, these and many other tuberous and bulbous plants have to concede to natures demands and take their rests. Tho blanks caused by their removal is not easily replaced unless almost every available autumn and winter flowering plant is brought into use. In most of our large public gardens, where they have the advantage of almost every convenience, practical experience and a wide range of varieties to chooso from, thero is not the same difficulty in keeping up a good display. Tho amateur grower, however, has to confine his energies to growing the more hardy, free-flowering varieties and those with anything like reasonable luck can be successfully grown. For the cool greenhouse, such varieties as cyclamen, different kinds of- primulas, cinerarias, herbaceous calceolarias, shrubby begonias, perpetual carnations and various other hardy free-flowering plants will all assist to keep up a display. THE USE OF POTS. Many varieties of bulbs too, such as tulips, hyacinths, narcissus anemones, ranunculus, lachenalias and others, make valuable additions when grown in pots in providing early flowers for greenhouse decoration. The secrets of growing bulbs successfully is to pot early, so as to allow them to como along slowly, and the pots to become well furnished with roots before the tops start into growth. To obtain this result, especially with hyacinths and narcissus, tho pots containing the bulbs should be placed in a cool situation and the pots completely covered with about three inches of cocoanut fibre, ashes, leaf mould, or other suitable material. By this means root action takes place while tho top, for a time, remains practically dormant. The pot should remain in this position until the crowns havo made an inch or so of growth, when they should be removed, placed in a cool frame and shaded from the sun until the bleached growth becomes green, and hardened sufficiently to stand the light and sun. The fact of the pots being well furnished with roots results in more healthy, compact growth, and when* later taken into the house, tho foliage and flowers are more uniform and not out of proportion as is the case when potted and placed at once in tho house. SELECTION OF BULBS. In selecting the bulbs for potting, only the largest and most promising bulbs should be chosen. The best soil to us© is a good fibrous loam leaf mould with a small portion of bono meal and sand mixed with the soil. The pots must be well provided with drainage and over the crocks a small layer of well-decom-posed manure should be placed. A COVERING OF SOIL. After placing sufficient soil .in the pots tho bulbs should be pressed into the soil to cover tho crown. This applies alike to hyacinth, narcissus and tulips. When planted in the open ground tho bulbs are usually placed two or three inches below the surface, but in pot culture the fact of covering with threo or four inches of suitable material answers the same purpose. It may, in some instances, be necessary, and even an advantage, to give a light top-dressing with good soil after the plants have been removed from their coverings and aro starting into growth. The number of bulbs for each pot will naturally depend on tho sizo of tho pots used—with hyacinths from ono to threo according to tho size of tho bulbs and pots used, and with narcissus, three or more according to space. With tulips, three is ample for a medium sized pot. Lachenalias, freesias, anemones and others, though they require a cool place, and to bo grown slowly until well rooted and established, do not require the pot covered, as with hyacinths. CELERY AND ASPARAGUS. NEED FOR ATTENTION. Early planted celery has now become thoroughly established. Keep the rows free from weeds and well supplied with moisture. The earthing, however, should be delayed until tho plants aro well advanced. To earth up too early tends to retard rather than assist growth. Asparagus beds will still' need attention.. Too often, after the best of the crops havo been cut, tho beds receive littfe or no attention until tho tops aro decayed and ready for cutting down. This, in a measure, is duo to the difficulty in hoeing between tho plants, but to allow the beds to become covered with weeds not only robs the roots of tho necessary moisture but impoverishes the soil. Hand weeding is at all times tho safest unless the plants have been set at sufficient distance apart to allow of hoeing without risk of injuring the crowns.

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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZH19300308.2.192.49

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVII, Issue 20508, 8 March 1930, Page 5 (Supplement)

Word Count
887

THE GREENHOUSE. New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVII, Issue 20508, 8 March 1930, Page 5 (Supplement)

THE GREENHOUSE. New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVII, Issue 20508, 8 March 1930, Page 5 (Supplement)