THIS AND THAT OF FASHION.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVII, Issue 20454, 4 January 1930, Page 6 (Supplement)

THIS AND THAT OF FASHION.

AGAINST HIGHER WAISTS.

VOGUE OF THE LITTLE JACKET.

[SPECIAL to N.Z. HERALD. —COrVRIQHT.]

LONDON. Nov. 22. 1929,

Having more or less settlod the position of the waistline and the vexed question of tho length of the skirt, we are faced by a much more serions innovation in the threatened revival of tho corset.

.It is all the result of putting tho belt at tho normal waistline, for so many women have kept their hip line looking quite slim, but havo left tho waist to look after itself. They find that the elastic belts which gave them trim hips havo pushed the flesh up into the waist, and are quite impossible under many of the close-fitting models which are so popular to-day. Of course, the very young and slim—with natural waists of 24in. and 37in. hips—can wear any of the now models minus any corsets. But it is the older women who are troubled with a little extra weight and yet shie from the idea of returning to the tyranny of the corset.

Already the dressmakers insist on bonod belts of coutille that come up to the ribs, and although little is being said about the probable revival of shaped corsets, we all realiso how one thing has a tiresome way of leading to another. Americans are taking tho change of silhouette cmite seriously. The well-known novelist Fanny Hurst has started a crusade to make women revolt against longor skirts and higher waists. She insists that the changes that are creeping into our midst will turn tho woman who looked as young as her daughter into a rather elderly woman of no particular charm! I havo included two sketches, one of which is close-fitting, with a suggestion of the " Empire" line, created by tho deep yoke and tuck. This was made in reversible satin, tho upper part of tho bodice, with the strappings on the skirt, showing the bright side of the satin. The remainder of the frock is made on the crepo side, and decorated with pin tucking that creates a design.

My second sketch shows a new frock with slim hips and higher waist, adapted for a fuller figure. The bodice has a suggestion of blouse and fulness over the belt, to conceal any difficult line, but below the hips the skirt fits very closely, and then breaks out into full godets to well below the knees. This fulness creates a balance for a heavier type of figure that is infinitely becoming. The vogue of the little jacket seems to have increased its popularity, probably owing to the new silhouette. Watching a particularly high-waisted, long-skirted collection, one woman was heard to exclaim: "Goodness! I? this style takes as it is shown It'll never dare take off my coat except in bed!" Is that the solution—jackets with everything ? Many of the best designers of Paris and London seem to think so, and offer gowns with little extra jackets that disguise the lines of the figure that is far from perfect. Others show belts in the front only with loose backs, fichn draperies, capelets and long hanging ties. For the average figure the slightly princess gown, without a belt, is the safest way of following tho mode.

The little coat in every sort of material has many virtues to recommend it, besides being a disguise for bad lines. They can atld so much brightness and variation to a limited wardrobe, transforming a plain frock into quito a gala attire, if in some luxurious material. The problem of stretching one's wardrobe to do duty for many occasions is a very real ono to most of us, and a,plain black chiffon or georgette crepo frock is one of tho most useful garments we can possess. I should suggest it being sleeveless, with a slightly " V" neck, and a

■acket to match in its own chiffon or crepe.

Here you havo an ensemble that is useful for a warm summer day, out of doors or in the house.

Remove the coat, you have a dance frock. Add a gay coat of brocade, gold lame, or brilliant velvet, and you have a smart get-up for a party or the theatre. Still another coat of black velvet, with a little collar and cuffs of beige or white fur, and you have a charming frock for cool days in the house. This is only one combination of the endless ways in which the little coat may be made to servo the woman of moderate means. Incidentally, with the excellent patterns that now be bought, (hev are quite simple for the clever-fingered woman to fashion for herself.