THE CHARM OF SCOTLAND.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVI, Issue 20378, 5 October 1929, Page 9 (Supplement)

THE CHARM OF SCOTLAND.

A DELIGHTFUL GUIDE.

Of all tho writers of unprofessional guide-books, who flourish so nutrieroiisly to-day, nono excels Mr. IT. V. Morton. Thero is a couplet which runs: Two men looked out through prison bars, Tho ono saw mud; the other, stars. Mr. Morton, in his friendly way, takes by the hand prisoners of circumstances, chained to the desk, or, it may bo, to the kitchen, and shows them both tho mud and the stars, of tho world outside. Facts and fancies flower at the bidding of his facilo pen. His charm and individuality gives freshness to tho most tourist-ridden view, tho oldest anecdote, tho most hackneyed historical scene. To those, too, whose captivity is not perpetual, his books aro an inspiration. Indeed, as an English reviewer said of his " Call of England," " If ono's holiday is over, hero are ideas for the next; if one's holiday is to come, hero is a place that must ho seen; if there can bo no holiday at all, hero is a good substitute." Now Mr. Morton has gono " In Search of Scotland," and at tho very outset he gives I his readers a } new angle of vision. Tho Highlands, ho explains, are, from tho tourist's point of view, a discovery of modern times. "In tho days of Pope and Addison, the Highlands of Scotland had as little interest for travellers as Afghanistan. , Even Scotsmen (Lowlanders) used to mako their wills when forced to go thero; and to Lowlander and Englishman alike, tho mountains were a wild alien country wliero the mountaineers pursued blood feuds in tho intervals of cattle-lifting. . . . Writers began to explore Scotland soon ufter tho clavnioro had been sheathed. . . Sir Walter Scott, born at the psychological moment, created the modern conception of Scotland. He it was who ennobled tho clans and mado the kilt, tyitherto an unpopular garment, aristocratic and romantic. Queen Victoria carried on the good work and, by going to live on Dcesido in the autumn, proved that the Highlands were not only high-minded but harmless. So tho tourists' Scotland was born." Tho Highland Memory. In tho Highlands tho author found the " most grotesquo sign-post .in tho world:" The Village of Glcneoe. Scene of the Famous Massacre. Teas and Refreshments, Tobacco and Cigarettes. There was found 100, a Scotsman who told the author a story, at once pathetic and splendid, which shows another side of the picture. This man, a Highlander by descent living in Edinburgh, went on a day's excursion to Glencoe and, as he wandered up tho glen ho camo upon an Edinburgh acquaintance who was on a visit to his parents, who lived in a humble " but and' ben" near by. Tho fino old father gave him a stately welcome and finding that his guest was of Highland descent asked his name. Tho son looked imploringly at liis friend, but thero was nothing for it. " I said straight out, 'Well, sir, my name's Campbell!' At that the old man stood up. He was more than six feet high. 110 seemed to fill tho little cottage. 110 pointed to tho door and said, 'Thero shall no Campbell sit by my hearth-stone!' Tho son pleaded with the old man, but it was no good. I got up and loft. And that was in 1910!" Royal and Ancient , Game.

To play " Hamlet" and omit the Prince of Denmark from the cast may bo a difficult proposition, but it is not as unthinknblo as to write a book about Scotland without mentioning golf. As usual. Mr. Morton finds fresh items of information to brighten a well-worn themo. In ancient times tho Mercat Cross was tho focus of street lifo in Edinburgh. Round it gathered 3 band of caddies, a peculiar institution ahd closo brotherhood, who made it their business, to act as guides—for pay of course —-to bewildered strangers. Miijor" Topharn writing of the Edinburgh of 1774, says that tho " cawdies"—a corruption of the French " cadet"—were tho tutelary guardians of tho city and that it was ontirely owing to them that there wcro fewer robberies in Edinburgh, than anywhere else. What moro natural than that these capable handymen should have firmly taken possession of a player's clubs and guided him round tho course. True to his origin still, a good caddie would never permit anvone elso to steal his master s balls! Mary, Queen of Scots, is tho first recorded woman golfer. She played a round on tho links at Seton a few days after the death of Darnlcy.

Tho Soul of Scotland.

The author pays a beautiful tributo lo Scottish art and Scottish character in his description of tho National War Shrino in Edinburgh, a sanctuary which, rising from tho jagged ledges of Castlo Kock, symbolises tho very soul of Scotland. " Scotland's shrine is tho only groat thing born out of the travail of tho war which is cosmic in its conception and still personal in its appeal. It is as coldly dignified as Hardy's ' Dynasts and as warmly emotional as tho Unknown Warrior's grave in tho navo of Westminster. . . .In England, tho phiasc, ' tho Glorious Dead' has tears in it, . . Scotland's shrine is a requiem and a hymn of praise. . . There is more pride and less regret in this than in any war memorial in the world." Mr. Morton is a master of tho felicitous phrase. These " jewels, five words long" sparklo throughout tho book and illuminate its humour, its pathos, and its very considerable mass of information. Thus. "(o Sco tho Forth Bridge is rather like meeting a popular actress, hut with this difference—it exceeds information." " John Knox, a man icmarkably like Moses, who having mado a middlo class was determined to lead it into a Promised Land that flowed with tho Swiss milk of Calvinism." Tho description of tho War Memorial culminates in this striking sentence. " Tho Flowers o' tho Forest have all turned to stone."

Edinburgh and Gla3gow.

The fundamental differences between Glasgow and Edinburgh are neatly touched off. " Glasgow plays the part of Chicago to Edinburgh's Boston. Glasgow is a city of the glad hand and the smack the back: Edinburgh is a city of silence until birth or brains open the circle. Glasgow is willing to bclicvo the best of an unknown quantity. Edinburgh, liko nil aristocracies, tlio worst! . . . The real difference between thoso two cities is that Edinburgh is Scottish and Glasgow is cosmopolitan. That is why they will always secretly admiro each other; also why Edinburgh is definitefy tho capital." Wonderful coincidences spring up, it would seem, expressly for the author. Who else would have found a Mr. Macbeth acting as doorkeeper at Inverness C'astlo ? The book clamours to be quoted, but enough perhaps has been said to convey something of its many-sided charm. In Mr. Morton's company tho most rabid •follower of Dr. Johnson will change his views about tho Scotch and heartily applaud their defiant toasl: Here's trie tin. Whn's liko ua? Do'il tho yinl "In Search of Scotland," by H. V. Morton. (Aletliuou).