DESIGNERS AT WORK.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVI, Issue 20366, 21 September 1929, Page 6 (Supplement)

DESIGNERS AT WORK.

BACK TO THE SLIM LINE.

SCARF AND BAG TO MATCH.

18PKCIAL TO K.& HERALD. —COPYRIGHT.}

LONDON, Aueuat 9

Tliis is the holiday month of tho year. Schools are closed, and business houses seem to be working on half staff. Shops aro interesting only for necessities or things we have forgotten to provide for holidays, and tho world of fashion sleeps. But only to the outside world, for already I have seen advance models designed for the autumn 6eason. These models have confirmed my worst suspicions, for the new silhouette is of a sheath-liko pillar-bos straightnes3 from tho neck to just above tho knees, and then flares out into a frill or godet effect.

Sometimes this sheath, effect starts only from the natural waistline, where there is a narrow waist Land, and for daytime wear the flare or godet generally has a straight hemline, about eight or nine inches bolow the knee. This length promises to be optional, but obviously it cannot bo much shorter, or it looks unbalanced. Tho sheath is made to suit individual heights and shape.*, and if from the natural waistline has the effect of an elongated hip yoke.

The newest coat silhouette is tho threequarter length, and is very becoming to most shapes and sizes. This length is, however, only for ensembles, foi tho coat must match the skirt, preferably in the material but certainly in colour. Where this three-quarter ensemble is made of woollen materials the coat and godet part of the skirt aro of woollen, with tho sheath top of matching crepo de chine or satin beaute, and the coat is lined to match.

To some people this sheath will prove extremely becoming if they aro very slim (young or otherwise), but slim they certainly must be. When this stylo is used for evening a floating peacock train comes from it, reaching tho ground at the back, but as short as one wishes in front. This day time mode is really . the outcome of the late summer evening frocks, exactly as the three-quarter coat follows that of the last-minute evening wraps For evening, however,, the coat need not match the frock beneath go long as it harmonises

I have sketched a new coat and a very new frock, seen in this collection, and you will notico that tho scarf idea is far from dead—it crops np all the time in some new guise.

Tho afternoon gown is made of black crepe marocain, clinging to tho upper part of tho figuro, but without an exaggerated tightness below tho hips. Tho neck 'ine is finished with two scarves, one over the othor, black and red. This model suggests niwy graceful frocks, according to tho combination of materials and colours used.

For an informal dinner gown it wotild look extremely handsome in crepo satin, with one gcarf of deep cream lace and the other of black satin, worn with a three-strand necklace of pearls. Bag and Scarf to Match.

The coat is a very new and interesting one, also from Vionnet of Paris. In black velours-de-laine, it is cut to suggest a bo'ero, and fastens on the shoulder and to ono side of the hip. The front section may be turned back, for it is lined with ermine to match the collar, which fnstens at the side, and again wq have black and white scarves hanging from the shoulder. Although this is designed for our coming autumn and winter, it would look equally lovely in a heavy crepe or dull satin for a smart afternoon coat to wear on cool days over a thin dress. The ensemble and matching voguo is responsible for the improved appearanco of any crowd of women, whether wealthy or otherwise. But it has certainly made us all more extravagant. Wo 6eem to need just double the quantity of shoes, stockings, handkerchiefs, belts and gloves, while, as for bags—we discard them as easily as wo lay aside a soiled handkerchief.

It behovea ono, then,, to find some economical way of satisfying tho everpresent need for a fresh handbag. Tho matching bag or scarf seem to me the best way at the moment, for I have just seen somo delightful specimens in gay-striped silks. If you want to give fresh lifo to a last season's suit, or plain-co'oured jumper frock, get a length of stripecl silk in bright colours and make a long scarf, with the stripes going across tho scarf, the ends being much wider than tho middle of tho scarf. Then fix a flat bag of the same material to one of tho now metal grip handles, and a further smart touch is to make a narrow belt to match, with tho stripes going up and down—not round—the waistline.

If you cannot get the grip handles make a fairly large pochette of the striped silk, and if possiblo, cut it so that the stripos go slanting across the bag. Theso striped sets will blend with a variety of simple dresses. Any girl who is clover at putting on a scarf and hat will look as well dressed; as tho most ex-pensive-minded person. But it needs caro, for (hero is almost more skill in the wearing of a scarf than of a hat.