EARLY TOMATOES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVI, Issue 20332, 13 August 1929, Page 3

EARLY TOMATOES.

PROSPECTS OF SUCCESS.

All gardeners who grow tomatoes have, no doubt, attempted at some time or other to cultivate a few early plants. As a rule, the outdoor culture of tomatoes early in the season is not a great success as far as obtaining an early crop is concerned. The tomato is essentially a warmth-loving plant and until tho sun begins to get something like its summer heat toward the latter half of spring, the plants do not make much growth. It often happens that tomatoes planted later will come into bearing before the plants that were put out early. Unless one has a very warm corner with a northerly aspect, the writer does not consider it will bo worth while for anyono to plant tomatoes too early. With a glasshouse, however, it is a different mutter, as the temperature may be regulated and more congenial conditions for growth provided. Where one has what has from past .experience proved a suitable corner, this may be prepared for a few early plants. Even if tho plot is only large enough to take three or four plants these will be sufficient to meet the early requirements. Deeply worked soil is appreciated by the tomato. The incorporation of a small quantity of compost is all that is desirable. The provision of the groat majority of the food requirements is achieve'! by ■ means of artificial fertilisers nearer the time for planting. Superphosphate and , sulphate of potash will supply practically » all that the tomato requires to produce a good crop. \ In the meanwhile, the plants may bo.raised unless one intends to obtain them from a seedsman. The seed should be ' sown in a shallow tray (about 3in deep). and covered lightly with finely sifted soil. It will bo absolutely necessary to place the seed tray on heat in order to hasten germination. A larger a&d deeper box. in which is placed some rotting stable, manure, will suffice. The warmth given off by tho manure is considerable, and will nnsh the seedlings on. After they are pricked off the seedlings should be put back on this, improvised hotbed to hasten their development to .a size fit" for planting out,In order that the manure may ho effec-. tive it is essential that it be kept moist. as otherwise no putrefaction occurs and no heat is produced. Another'matter" to note is that a sheet of glass placed over Ihe seed-box will help to bring the seed- ' lings through quicker. After they have pushed their way through they should not be covered overhead except during wet weather when a canvas blind will bo use--.. fill to keep the wet. off them. plants will thus be provided for plantingout, which may be carried out as soon as the seedlings attain a height of sin or 6in.

PRUNING CITRUS TREES

TIME FOR TREATMENT.--While the trees are dormant, i.e.. while they are not actually making growth,J there is a good opportunity to carry out, any pruning that be desirable for citrus trees. As a rule those trees are left to their owu devices and receive no training at all, which is a mistake, as every tree will be benefited by a little treatment during its young stages. Not only then, hut afterwards, when the fruit wood is, being dealt with, will the trees receive benefit from pruning. To train a citrus tree from the time it is planted ono should select four or five shoots to serve as leaders and suppress the remainder. The chosen shoots should be allowed to develop unhindered (within reason) for two or three years, the only attention required being to see that they grow evenly and in the right direction. The proper slope for citrus leaders is an oblique one. Lateral growths will develop from the leaders as they extend year by year, and the fate of these will need consideration.

The laterals arisiug. from buds on the ■ up])er side of the leaders should lie suppressed until one on each 'is required as a new leader.. Those which develop ;■ from side buds, however, may be trained as sub-leaders if space permits. . In » . few years' time tlie leaders will bend J" downwards under the weight they have to bear and new shoots will arise from <■ them and take on their duties. The new leaders should be trained as were the original ones, as also should be their , sub-leaders, according to the treatment given to the first lot. Pruning Sub-leaders. " -v.A rather pectdiar method .of pruning-; is adopted where the sub-leaders arc con? * corned. They should be cut back annually*to about lialf-wav along the previous ; season's growth. The peculiarity in the method is in the fact thai one year' the, sub-leaders are pruned to a bud on tho ' lower side, and next year to a bad on the uppermost side of the shoot. The shoots . thus develop alternately in horizontal, and more or less vertical directions. The reason for this treatment is to encourage growth one year and give the shoots sufficient stability and the succeeding year - to discourage vigorous growth in the „ interests of frnitiulness. -- The sub-leaders will give Tise to sidc v shoots, which raay be retailed if they ; are suitably placed, and if there is room for them. Those which do not develop i from the top side of the shoot may be retained, as these will be more productive than the twigs in a more upright position, which should bo removed. It is on the side twigs that the crop is borne, right to the outside of the tree. They require practically no pruning to bear well, and on the whole are best-left alone. It is only when the twigs become too distended that it is necessary to prune them. As they extend year by year anil are woighed-dowu by the fruit they benr the twigs become too pendulous should bo shortened back to a suitable point or removed altogether to make room for a new shoot. Hie twigs •n i in time develop into shoots and tune their own lateral twigs, which may K retained if suitably placed and not o\eicrowded.

Pruning the Orange. \.s far as the training of the tree is concerned the above remarks apply to the orange, but in connection with the . treatment of tho fruiting wood the forecoing refers chiefly to the lemon. While the lemons are produced on lateral twigs in tho bodv of the tree, tho orange fruits are to bo' found on the outer fnngo of tho tree on tho terminal twigs of the current season's growth. On account of this one mijjht not. nothPi to keep the centre of the treo opon, as tho sunlight would not bo required in tho interior for tho purpose of ripening tho fruit, but no such departure from tho accepted rule should be made. Tts habit of growth (a dense one) makes it morel difficult to keep open than a lemon tree, and this rather encourages the grower to allow the centre to fill. The production of lateral shoots occurs naturally in tho lemon, and these become subdivided more like ordinary fruit trees. Wherever an orange has developed several now shoots arise from around the, scar, so one twig may subdivide into five or six. To allow all these to develop is obviously impossible, as tliey cannot help being overcrowded when tho other subdivisions are taken into account. Only ono or two of tho strongest of the new shoots should be retained in the case of each twig dealt with, the remainder being suppressed when it is seen which will be the best. . There is certain general pruning which should be carried out on all citrus trees. This consists of tho removal of all dead or dwindling wood. Any branches that are removed on account of borer should bo burnt. Steps shonld bo taken to deal with the insects in the remainder of the tree. Other branches which should b removed or shortened ai . 6 f tb °? o others'': touch the ground qr chafe ® through being crossed, \