THE ART OF PRUNING.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVI, Issue 20288, 22 June 1929, Page 5 (Supplement)

THE ART OF PRUNING.

DIVERGENT OPINIONS. Tho time, has again arrived when attention must bo given to the pruning, clearing and dressing of tho various fruiting trees as they mature and ripen their wood. There are few subjects on which opinions differ moro widely than in tho matter of pruning. Some growers maintain that a system of hard winter pruning is best; others prefer to prune only lightly; while a large number, particularly amateur growers, leave their trees unpruned until compelled to take sonic action because tho trees have either ceased to make growth, or because they produce fruit unfit for use.

Opinions differ as to the respective advantages of summer and winter pruning. Both, however, are necessary if the .best, results are to bo obtained. Whilo the shortening back during the summer ot side shoots that grow out, as the result of winter pruning, encourages fruiting spurs to form, tho leading or main shoots are left for the winter pruning. The time for pruning varies according to the varieties to bo treated, but in no case should life winter pruning be done until the san has returned and until most of the leaves have fallen. It should be borne in mind that tho returning sap has its functions to perform—that of strengthening root action—and to prune before the sap has returned tends to weaken root growth. EFFECT OF SUMMER PRUNING. In summer pruning, the effects depend chiefly upon tho time tho slopping is done. As stated when giving advico upon summer pruning most fruit trees make two periodical growths, spring aud midsummer, so that during January or early February is tho best time for summer stopping. Winter pruning extends from Juno to August, according to tho varieties grown. Among large fruit-bearing trees tho peach and kindred trees are generally the first to ripen their wood. They arc followed bv Japanese and European plum, wLIj apples, pears, quinces,, etc., are generally tho last. The first bush fruits to need attention' are gooseberries and currants, as they are the first to start into growth in early spring. Gooseberries, when growing freely, require regular and liberal pruning. In the case of healthy plants at least half the branches may need to bo re-; moved, as well as shortening back the side shoots arid the leading shoots. It must be borne in mind that the fruit is produced upon the young wood as well as upon the young spurs formed through tho cutting back of last season s shoots. Ono of the main things is to have the branches evenly distributed throughout the bush and the centi'o open, the whole plants being sufficiently well thinned to allow of the free access of light and air. Varieties, 1 too, differ in habit of growth, some growing almost erect while others, particularly some of the larger fruiting kinds, Bueh as Farmers' Glory, London Crown Cob, etc., have a drooping_ habit and require to be pruned with a view to keeping the lower branches off the ground. TREATING RED CURRANTS. Red currants, particularly such varieties as La Versailles and Fay 8 Prolific, will grow and fruit freely with proper treatment, though tho chief difficulty in our northern gardens is to protect the fruit from the birds. In the more southerly districts almost every variety will grow and fruit abundantly. When growing

freely (ho rod varieties require similar 1 treatment in pruning to the gooseberry. Tho black currant requires bijfc little pruning, simply thinning out anil regu> lating crossed or damaged -branches being all that is required. Among small fruits tho loganberry has few equals. It thrives and fruits well in almost any garden soil, providing reasonable carols given to training and cultivation. The fruit is produced on wood of tho previous season's growth, whilo tho wood of tho previous year dies back to tho base of the plant. Tho pruning consists of cutting away the dead canes and shortening back a portion of tho shoots left for fruiting this season, the amount of growth removed being regulated by the growth tho shoots have made. The object in shortening back the' leading shoots is to induco side laterals to form, as_ it is upon these that tho bundles of fruit are produced. Raspberries, like the loganberry, require but little priming. Simply cut down the old canes that fruited last season, ana leave about four of the strongest of last season's canes to grow up from each stool for next season's fruiting. _ lue chief art in growing raspberries is .10 keep all suckers removed, with the exception of three or four of the strongest, which should be given every encouragement to produce strong canes.