WORK IN THE ORCHARD.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXV, Issue 20136, 22 December 1928, Page 6 (Supplement)

WORK IN THE ORCHARD.

IMPORTANCE OF SPRAYING. In orchard work spraying is still ono of the most important operations. To grow and mature sound fruits, or even protect the trees from injury judicious spraying throughout the growing of a fruiting season is absolutely essential. The commercial grower requires little ad-

vice upon this matter as he is fully aware of the lossas that result from neglect. It is the amateur grower who often neglects to take any measures to control these pests, with the result that not only is most of the fruit rendered unfit for use, but also tho trees arc often so checked by leaf-eating pests that their cropping capabilities aro impaired. Pests, such as codlin moth, leech, beetle, black ! aphis, woolly aphis, mussel and other scales, as well as fungoid diseases, aro all injurious to either fruit or foliage unless kept in check by thorough and systematic spraying. Some pests, it is true, can bo more effectively dealt with during the winter and early spring when the trees are dormant and tho material can bo applied at greater strength without risk of injuring the buds. COMBATING OODLIN MOTH. With apples, pears, quinces and other pip fruits that aro attacked by tho codlin moth, it is generally recognised that spraying with tho arsenate of lead solution is tho surest means of securing sound fruit, especially if persistently applied until tho fruit is developed. In far too many instances, however, tho spraying is simply confined to these fruits, and little or no attempt is mado to combat tho insects that play such havoc with tho foliage of plums, pears, quince and cherry trees. Of all leaf-eating insects tho leech is tho most destructive, and if allowed to multiply and feed, soon defoliates tho trees at tho timo when they should be full of health and vigour. These pests are now preying upon the foliage, and amateur growers, who aro unacquainted with their method of attack, will do well to examine tho foliage and notice how quickly they strip tho leaves of their outer skin. Thorp is really little excuse for allowing tho trees to be injurod by this pest as they can be kept under control by an occasional spraying with arsenate of lead. HABITS OP THE LEEOH. The eggs of this insect are deposited on tho leaves by a small fly. These in a fow days hatch out and at once commence to feed upon the foliago. It takes about threo weeks for the leech to attain its full size, by jyhich time they, have

played havoc. The spraying should, in some measure, be regulated by the weather. In showery weather the material naturally becomes -weakened, but in fine weather it adheres to the foliage and remains effective longer. The brown beetle, though by no means as destructive as the leech, punctures and disfigures the leaves of various trees. This post is destructive in' every stage of development. In the grub stage, when it is mere generally knowD as the grass grub, it attacks the young fibrous roots of almost every variety of tree, shrub and plant, eating almost every particle of fibre. DEPREDATIONS BY NIGHT. When at the flying stage, as they are at this time, they come put of the ground at night in swarms and attack the young tender foliage of every variety of tree. Spraying, to be effectual, should be done so that every portion of the tree is well moistened with the material. Thorough cultivation of the soil is important,. Dry weather may set in at any time, and if mulching the trees is not always practiablo the next best thing is to work the soil bo as to maintain /i loose surface. Trees that have not been long planted should have every attention in this respect. After" heavy rain the soil nuturally becomes beaten and caked, and unless it is broken up cracks open as soon as dry weather sets in. TO CORRESPONDENTS. " Hortcne," Kaitaia.—Name of weed is Crepia virens, one of the varieties of hawkweed; auite different from ragwort; is common, but harmless. M.M., Fernhill.—Name of rhubarb is Topp'a winter. Asparagus should not be removed until next winter. Early in August is the best time to plant asparagus, young or old.

" Clover," Hastings.—Names of clovers are:—!, Trifolium glomoratum (the roundleaved trefoil); 2, Trifolium striatum (soft trefoil); !5, Trifolium subt.orraneum (subterranean clover); 4, Trifolium arvense (hare's-foot trefoil); 5. Medicaso lupulinue.

" Interested," Tangowahine.—Names of specimens to identify are:—l, Hedeoorya arborea (the pigeon wood); 2, Melicytes ramiflorus (mahoe); 8, Brnchyglottis xepand (Rangiora); 4, Aristotelia racemoaa (the wineberry); 5, Hoheria populnea (the lace-bark). All are nativeß of New Zealand.

" Bloom," Avondale.—Allow your Pittosporum crassifolium to become more mature. To cut it back at present would be injurious. Autumn is the best time to take off cuttings of the yellow, shrubby calceolaria for propagating. It is quite hardy and stands our winters in the open. For aphis on chrysanthemums, black leaf 40, with a little soft soap added to make it more adhesive, is the best spray. Gishurst's compound is also good. For rust and other funeoids use Bordeaux mixture, the 6-4-40 formula. Condy's fluid is another preventive. To produce large blooms the side shoots should be reduced to about six, allowing throe blooms to each branch. H.H., Katikati.—You omitted to mention the variety of fruit tree. Please adviße. V.E.L., Matamata.—The dying of strawberry plants as per sample sent, happens when the warmer weather sets in and transpiration of the leaves start. The trouble, however, is much older, being caused by excessivo moisture at the roots during the winter. The roots perish, but the plants Apparently exist for a time and ultimately rot off This is, so far, an unknown disease. Free drainage of the soil is recommended. Tho too liberal use of fertilisers has ruined thousands of strawberry plants. Leaves of delphiniums are affected with mildew. Spray with lime sulphur or Bordeaux mixture.

F.E.K., Orini.—Names of specimens to identify are:—l, Sporodanthus Traversii; 2, Hypoloona lateriflora; 3, Dianella intermedia; 4, Droseru cinata; 5, Gleichenia disarpa; 6, Epacris pauciflora; 7, Ranunculus acris; 8, Ranunculus bulbosus; 9, Cotula coronopifolia; 10, Thelyminfra longifolia (orchid); 11, Juncus tenuis; 12, Polygonum serrulatum; 13, Juncus tenuifolia; 14, Pelargonium" Australe; 15, Juncus cufonius; 16, Gnaphalium keriense; 17, Gnaphalium luteo-album; 18, Erechtites prenanthoides; 19, Epilobium pallidiforum; 20, Prunella vulgaris; 21, Dyeuxia Forsteri (grass); 22, Aira earyophyllea (grass); 23, Festuca bromoides (groBs); 24, Poa annua (grass). " Subscriber," Pukekawa.—From your description the small insects that are so thick upon your broad beans are the ordinary aphis. Tho remedy is to spray with black leaf 40 (extract of nicotine), to which add some soap to make it more adhesive; or spray with Gishurst's compound. _ Two or three applications properly applied will completely rid your beans and other vegetables of these aphides. JKepos.