THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXV, Issue 20072, 9 October 1928, Page 17

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

CULTURE OF KUMARAS. Br F.S.R. The kumara is a popular vegetable and its culture is attempted by most gardeners who can spare tho ground. The tubers should have been started on a hotbed by this time and the sprouts should bo fairly well advanced. When the shoots are about 6in. high and have developed a root system, they should bo pulled off and heeled in for a whilo preparatory to being planted out. In tho meantime the ground should bo made ready. This work should be commenced any time now as the beginning of next month is tho time for planting. Kumaras may be planted later than this, but it is not desirable to delay tho planting or they will not have a ciianco to make much growth beforo tho dry weather sets in. s Deep working is not desirable for tho kumara requires a firm bed on which to develop its tubers. A warm position is required. In tho caso of ground which is considered to be firm enough, tho initial preparations should consist merely of forking to a depth of 6in. or Bin., but where the soil has been loosened to a greater depth for a previous crop it is advisable to endeavour to consolidate the soil. This may bo done by trampling tho plot. After this the top may be forked over to the depth mentioned. Subsequent working of the top-soil should produce a fine tilth in which the kumaras should bo produced freely. No innnuro or compost is required. Gardeners are strongly advised not to incorporate any material of this kind as it is liable to spoil tho crop by inducing too much top growth. If tho ground is exceptionally poor, however, a little nitrogenous fertiliser may be used. Phosphates and potash are tho manures required for a good crop of kumaras to bo produced. Superphosphate two parts and sulphate of potash in half tho quantity form a good mixture to uso for the purpose. This, however, should not bo applied until the time for planting, arrives, when it may be broadcast over the whole plot, or it may be dusted where each plant is to bo put. It is a fairly common practice among gardeners to grow kumaras on the plot from which the early crop of potatoes is taken. If this is dono very little fertiliser will bo required until tho plants have been growing for some time, as tho soil will still be fairly rich from the potatoes. The plant food which is left is quite suitable for kumaras so only a limited quantity of tho above mentioned fertiliser need be applied at tho time of planting the kumaras. The remainder may be given in liquid form when tho plants are well Tinder way. Similarly, on other soils, the amount of fertiliser applied is governed by the supplies already in tho soil. On the average tho mixture may be used at the rate of about loz. per square yard. PREPARING FOR SUMMER. CONSERVATION OF MOISTURE. It is not too soon to discuss ways and means of preparing for the hot, dry season. The hot days experienced during the past week have impressed gardeners with the fact that a dry spell may be experienced at any time, and in caso such a contingency arises it will be as well to prepare for it immediately. Last year's experience of ail early summer should serve as a warning to gardeners not to leave mvpiything until it is too late. Tho moistnre which is in the soil at present should*be conserved for the benefit- of the crops during the months to come, as it is not likely to bo augmented by rain to any appreciable extent. Of course, there is tho alternative of artificial watering, but this, being laborious, should be avoided as far as possible. Besides, in certain districts there is always the possibility of restrictions being placed on the use of water for this purpose. Taking all things into consideration the gardener will find that it pays to make every endeavour to conserve the soil moisture* during the spring. The creation of a soil mulch is possibly the most practicable method. A soil mulch is created by loosening the surface soil to a depth of 3in. or 4in. by means of the fork or push hoe. In order to remain effective it must be maintained by weekly cultivation of a similar nature throughout tho dry spell. Should any downfall of rain occur the hoe should bo commissioned immediately the soil again becomes workable. ; This is necessary in order to prevent it being evaporated. A shower of rain, particularly if at all heavv, patters the surface soil to such an extent that a crust forms when the ground begins to dry. This crust helps Evaporation in that it allots capillary attraction, and it is to prevent this that mulching is practised. T?y having loosened soil on tho surface the capillarity is broken and the moisture which is stored in the lower levels is prevented from coming up to the surface. Where mulching is practised tho surface soil will appear to bo parched, but this is a good sign as it shows that the moisture is not coming up from below. When the moisture in tho surface has been completely evaporated the soil dries up, and as practically no moisture is corning up Evaporation ceases. If allowed to go on ■unchecked it is quite possible that more moistnre would bo lost, through evaporation that would be used by the crops. It is not only the sun that causes evaporation, the wind is responsible to a largo extent also, so that the moisture is being evaporated practically nil tho time. The recognition of this fact will probably help gardeners to realise tho real need for muMiing. The soil mulch is riot the only kind for there is also the straw mulch, and, in addition, tho paper mulch. The paper mulch, however, is very seldom used in New Zealand. Tho straw mulch consists of spreading straw or stable manure over file ground to a depth of about 2m., and is used more commonly on rhubarb and other crops grown in beds, than for crops grown in the ordinary way in rows. As suitable material is not always procurable tho amateur gardener docs not often employ tho straw mulch. THE FRUIT SECTION. CURRENT ORCHARD WORK. Now that the fruit trees have started into growth tho manuring of the orchard should bo attended to. The necessity for applying fertilisers has been emphasised already and thero is no need to enlaige further on the subject. An ideal mixture for tho general fruit trees consists of thico parts of superphosphate, ono part of sulphate of potash and ono part of blood and bone manure. This should be scattered around tho trees within a radius of from 2ft. to 4ft., according to tho size of the trees. Tho 'amount of fertiliser also varies according to the size of the tree, but on tho average about 41b. should be given. The quantity varies from 21b. in tho case of a small tree to 61b, in the case of a largo one. The spraying of the trees should be continued as they advance in growth until tho fruit is sot. One of the most important jobs at this time of the year in the case of apples and pears is about due. This consists of spraying the trees with arsenate of lead, to combat, tho caterpillars of the codlin moth, which do so much damage to the fruits as they develop. Apply this spray for the first time at petalfall and repeat the application about 10 days later. Successive applications should be made at intervals throughout the months to come. Any application of arsenate of lead should be made with a high-pressure nozzle. Once the caterpillars get inside the fruits they cannot bo reached by spray. The strength at v.Jitvh, to use the arsenate is loz. of, powder, or 3£oss. paste* to 4 gallons of 'jßratsty