INDOOR PRUNING.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXV, Issue 19986, 30 June 1928, Page 5 (Supplement)

INDOOR PRUNING.

ATTENTION TO VINES. The pruning of indoor vines, if not already attended to, should be completed as soon as possible. Owing to the very mild autumn a few of the latest varieties may still be holding some of their foliage, but if the vines have been fully exposed to the weather even these should be sufficiently dormant to admit of pruning. The pruning in all cases is better done as

soon as possible after the return of the sap, as the longer season cf rest the vines have before again started into growth, the better they will do their work the following season. The time of pruning must, in a measure, depend upon the varieties of grapes grown. Early varieties" naturally ripen their wood, and are ready for pruning much earlier than late kinds, so that where mixed varieties are grown they should bo pruned as they are ready, and not left until all are ready. The methods of pruning too, must in some measure, vary according to the varieties. Some vines will break well and produce a good crop of grapes with close pruning, while others with the same treatment would soon be showing many blank spaces and give but scanty crops. METHOD FOR AMATEURS. The safest plan in pruning is always to leave two of the strongest buds at Uio base of each lateral instead of one. This is by far tho best method for any who are not thoroughly acquainted with the different varieties and their requirements. When two eyes are left, and they both break into growth, the one showing tho least promising bunch can always be removed or shortened back. Some varieties will not stand- hard pruning and often fail to stait 'when pruned back to one bud. ihis is one reason why many blank spurs are often seen. This can be overcome in most instances by leaving two buds to start, and if the upper shoot carries the bunch keep the lower shoot shortened back but not removed, as this lateral can bo made to develop the buds needed for next season's crop. If at tho next pruning time this upper portion of the lateral is cut back to the next bud comparatively short fruiting spurs can be maintained. On the other hand, if the lower lateral carries the bunch the upper one can bo removed. TO GUARD AGAINST PESTS. The pruning should always be done with a sharp knife so that a clean, smooth cut. is made. After pruning gather up Bill leaves and litter and burn to destroy arty pests. The vines should bo thoroughly dressed over with some insecticide. Gishurst compound or fir tree oil are effective washes for this purpose. After dressing the vines remove all the loose bark. This parts readily from the vines and should not be scraped with the knife or other instrument that would damage the bark. When the loose bark is removed the canes should be again dressed with tho mixture so that any pests which had secreted themselves under the bark will bo destroyed. The vines should then be painted. For this purpose a mixture of clay, soot and sulphur made to tho consistency of thick paint will ensure all requirements* It

is simply applied to form a smooth Coating and "stop any crevices in which bugs or other pests can secrete themselves. After pruning, painting and cleaning up all leaves or other debris, the house should bo thoroughly fumigated with cyanide. At this time the gas can bo applied at greater strength than would be safe at any other season.

TO CORRESPONDENTS. " Subscriber."—One of the best grapes to grow for commercial purposes is the Black Hambro. It is one of the most consistant croppers, as well as one of the easiest to manage, while for quality and flavour it is too well known to need comment. The Gros Colman, as you are probably aware, is a late ripening variety and requires careful management to thoroughly mature and ripen the fruit. The Hamburg, on the other hand, is a fairly early variety, though when well grown and ripened the fruit can be kept upon the vino until fairly late in the season. I should certainly advise you to confine yourself to these two varieties, planting the Colman in the warmest part of the house, each variety being kept together. " Novice," Point Chevalier.—With tho exception of ligustrums or privets, coprosma, boxthorn, hakea, common barberry and Pittosporum crassifolium, also oxylobium and the different varieties of conifers, the others—namely, abelia, escallonias of torts, tecoma, elaeagnus, olearias, laurels, etc. — are propagated from cuttings, and bambooß by divisions. Abelia, escallonia, Ingramii and Tecoma capensis all meet your requirements, being dense growers and easily kept in order by trimming. They are not particular as to quality of soil. Make the cuttings 6in. long (the tecoma 4in.) and plant at once. Pittosporum crassifolium: Sow Feeds at once in a small bed or in rows and cover with three-quarters of an inch of soil. Coprosma should also be sown. now in nice soil. Cover tho seeds lightly. J.W., Blenheim.—Onions for transplanting in the spring should be sown in April and up to the middle of June. For general crop how early in September. Onions succeed best in a rich loamy soil. They should do well following a crop of peas taken off last summer and potatoes the year before. A dressing per 40 square yards of 3lb. of kainit and 6lb. of superphosphate worked into the soil may be applied now advantageously. Soot is a complete manure, containing potash, phosphate and nitrogen, and is much favoured by onion* growers. When the plants have made a good start, an occasional dressing of nitrate of soda lightly scattered along the rows is a powerful stimulant and is helpful in keeping diseases away.

" Enquirer," Papakura.—Phengle slnjuld be procurable from manufacturing chemists. Camellias and rhododendrons are chiefly propagated from layers. Rhododendrons are also increased by grafting, this method being largely practised in Britain. Camellias may be grown from cuttings, also by approach and side grafting.

" Otangaki," Masterton. —Raspberry plants are suffering from rust fungus. After pruning the plants by cutting out old canes have the primings removed and burnt r to lessen the spread of the spores. Next thoroughly spray the canes with the 6-4-4" Bordeaux mixture, and in the spring, when the plants are in flower and the petals beginning to drop, spray with soluble sulphur at a strength of 101b. to 100 gallons o £ water, lie strawberries: The formation 01 the small purple spots on the leaves thai gradually increase in size and turn to » reddish-brown, in some cases almost covering the entire leaf, is caused by the I ( ' a * blight fungus. Run the scythe over uie rows and cut off and burn the leaves an« spray the crowns with Bordeaux, the 4-4-" formula. When the new leaves are <- e " veloped, spray with the 4-3-40 formula. " Gladioli," Masterton.—Gladioli bulbs aro often attacked with a species of funß ,,B that affects the leaves and nuns the For treatment, dip the bulbs m a solution of corrosivo sublimate, using one tablet io every three gallons of water. Allow ttjem to soak for two or three hours. Or use w 2 - of the corrosive sublimate to eight ganon» of water. This treatment has proved nic&i effective for gladiolus fungus.

L.W., Blenheim. —Giant Rocco Ailsa Craig are reliable, large, e , a „„ varieties of onions. For general crop,. •<?"= keepers and popular market yane"™: Brown Spanish, Straw Spanish and J 11111 " Keeping 1 are most reliable.

A.E.J.. Tauranga.—Some deficiency in soil or fungoid germs must surely account for several of your gerberas going oil su« detily. The best plan will be to take up all the old clumps, shake all the soil torn the roots, dip them in a solution ot deaux, and replant in a fresh plot. J'/ .f.' one days after treat with No. 1 sulph"' product to cleanse it of fungoid diseases dnu other nests, using 20z.. or more of tiie v>u duct per square yard, incorporated witn i" 1 - soil.

L.C., Tikinni.—Names of grasses a £®j No. 1. Eragrostis Brownn. No. 2 indicus, commonly called rat tail. f»°- * f of little feeding value. ,Lhe best mm",'® sow after the burning is 3lb. of Uanthcml pilosa, 21b. of Lotus angustissimus, - 10 - „ white clover and 20lb. of ryegrass per aci«The danthonia does not make much giovviu until the,.second year, hence tho neceei ity for adding the rye. Buffalo grass slowly and will, not trouble you, It ® es not seed and is of little feeding but is useful for binding the surface w'ieie Blips are likely to occur. Rat tail » nutritious, but very severe upon the came s teeth.

" Loganberry," Whakatane.—' The £yjng back of your loganberries after suggests uncongenial root conditions, iram the new 6ft. or Bft long shoots to the trellis and only shorten them back slightly, -vs a rule, after cutting off the old fruiting they mako vigorous new growth ana truiiing branches.

" Lawns," Mount Edon.—Moss on lawns is the result of damp, shady conditions- a liberal dressing of either lime, sw'PMpi.R! ammonia or sulphur product No. 1 WI .U,' the moss and act as a fertiliser, wneie soils are of a clayey nature, rolling the winter is not recommended, mina/o grass succeeds in wet and dry soils, also m shady situations, and by proper attention to cutting formß a dense carpet-like, evergreen sward. It is permanent, and. uemg thick, keeps weeds down. Three pounds oi superphosphate and lib. of sulphate oi ammonia is a good lawn fertiliser. JIEPO3.