CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIV, Issue 19762, 8 October 1927, Page 5 (Supplement)

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

REVIVAL OF INTEREST. The inauguration of a Chrysanthemum Club with a large and enthusiastic membership, in connection with the Auckland Horticultural Society, has revived interest in this queen of autumn flowers. There is promise of many new growers to compete at the next autumn show. There is a fascination in growing chrysanthemums in attending to their many requirements during the different stages of their growth. Full instructions on periodical treatment will be given in these columns during the different stages of development. After £ne preparation of the ground by digging, but not ' necessarily by heavily manuring, and after applying a liberal surface-dressing of lime to which a little soot may be added, fork the surface over to bring the soil into a good state of pulverisation. Commence planting a ben? the middle of this month. Arrange the plants in two or more rows, according to the space available, and the number of plants required. Allow each plant sufficient room to develop, with free access of light and air. Place the plants in the rows from 12in. to 16in. apart, and about 3ft. between each row. By' arranging a path at a distance of 3£ft. between the second and third rows and so on, the plot is thrown into beds with two rows of plants in each, thus allowing ample room for staking and tending during itheir different stages of growth. For show purposes select the most suitable varieties. The plants must be healthy and sturdy. As a precautionary measure against any insects that may be upon the plants, or fungoid germs, dip each in a combined inseticide and fungicide. In planting, ram the soil firmly around each plant, using a blunt stick or the htmdle of the trowel. TIIE VEGETABLE GARDEN. EARLY PLANTING DELAYED. With the favourable change in *the weather, no time should be lost in breaking up and preparing all ground required for the planting-out of the main crop of potatoes, kumaras, tomatoes, melons and other warm weather subjects. Where practicable, a plot should be selected in every garden for the planting of a few rows of potatoes. Owing to the exceptional weather experienced, early-planted i crops are sure to be scarce, and will command high prices, so that an effort should be made to obtain as early a supply as possible. - If planted in ground that has been previously manured for other crops, any further manuring at the time of planting may not be necessary, or even advantageous. If the soil is poor, and manuring at the time of planting is necessary, the following mixture of artificial manures is a good formula to use: —Superphosphate, 5 parts; kainit, 2£ parts; nitrate of soda, parts; applied at the rate of 71b. to the square yard. It is better, however, not to place the manure in contact with the sets, but to sprinkle the material after the sets have been lightly covered The same mixture sprinkled along the rows after the plants are well above ground, and after the first earthing-up, is an excellent fertiliser for this crop. The ground intended for kumaras, too, should be prepared, for although it is yet too early for planting, the grouhd cannot be too well worked. These are naturally heat-loving plants and succeed best when there is plenty of warmth in the soil, so that little is* gained by planting before the end of the present month. In some situations the planting is better if deferred until well into, or even toward the end of November. The kumera succeeds best in soils of a fairly light, friable nature that have been well worked, but that havo not been heavily enriched with manure. In lowlying, cold situations, or in soils of a retentive nature, planting on slightly raised mounds is an advantage, as it affords greater warmth to the soil. Up to the present little has been gained, unless in the most favourable positions, by planting tomatoes in the open, ground. Now, however, it is quite safe to plant out in any reasonable position, well hardened plants. Warmth in the soil is what they require. Litth growth is made unless this condition exists. In planting, the rows should be 3ft. apart, and the plants placed about 18in. apart in the rows—that is, if confined to the single stem system of train ing. These can either be trained to single stake.'i, wooden trellis, or wire. Select strong, well-hardened plants and as a precaution against disease, a good plan is to dip the plants in a solution of Bordeaux mixture. Should the weather continue p.s at present, almost every variety of vegetable, with the exception of a few of the very tender varieties such as egg plants and chiles should bo sown or planted. Some attention should be given to the rotation of crops. The aim of the cultivator should be to alternate, as far as possible, all surface-rooting plants such as cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, spinach, etc., with root-crops such as carrots, parsnips, beet, scorzonera, salsify arid others. In cropping, too the nature of the soil must be considered. Most root-crops require a deeply-worked, open, free soil, in which the roots can penetrate unchecked, while peas, beans, cabbage, cauliflower and others of the brassica family will succeed where the ground is heavier. The latter, however, are gross feeders, and the ground needs to be well enriched with manure. One of the advantages of alternating or changing the crop is that while somfe plants impoverish the ground for their own species, they improve its value for other varieties. *By taking advantage of this fact, the greatest use may be made of the natural constituents of the soil. The staking of peas should be attended to as soon as they are sufficiently advanced, for even the dwarfest varieties succeed better if supported. If stakes or branches are not procurable, support can be made by the use of a few stout stakes and any ordinary strong twine. The stakes should be drivea In the ground on each side of the rows, opposite each other and at a distance of two or three yards apart and a little higher than the peas are likely to reach« .... -jr- *