INTREPID ALPINIST.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIV, Issue 19649, 30 May 1927, Page 8

INTREPID ALPINIST.

THE LATE MR. H. A> HOLL

AUTHORITY ON NATIONAL PARK. FIFTY ASCENTS OF RUAPEHU. Mr. Holl was well-known in Auckland as the principal of the University Coaching College. He was born in England and took his B.A. degree with honours in mathematics at Emmanuel College, Cambridge. After teaching in English public schools for some time, he came to Auckland, where he established the University Coaching College in 1912. He was a brilliant mathematician and compiled a widely-used book for matriculation candidates. , *

Probably no amateur alpinist in New Zealand had more experience in climbing than had Mr. Holl. He knew the National Park from end to end, and was a member of the Ruapehu Ski Club and the Tonga riro National Park Sports Club. Before coming to New Zealand he performed several notable in the north of England and in Switzerland, and was a member of the famous Alpine Club. He climbed extensively in the Southern Alps, and it is recorded that he reached the summit of Mount Cook twice within a fortnight, a distinction not attained by any other amateur in New Zealand. Keady Guide for Visitors. For the past ten years or more Mr. Holl had turned all his attentions to the National Park, on the of which he was one of the soundest authorities. He introduced many amateurs to its attractions, and was always ready to act as guide for parties of visitors. He was a great advocate of the National Park movement., Realising its value as a health resort, he did not advocate a hostel for wealthy tourists, but one within the reach of the mass of the people, and it was his firm belief that the National Park would one day be the greatest-health resort in the North Island, attracting thousands of visitors from the cities.

Mr. Holl was recognised as an expert rock-climber, and although many wondered at the feats he undertook, he never made an ascent unless equipped Vith tested rope and an ice axe. In company with other experienced men he also climbed on the West Coast shore cliffs, north of Manukau Heads, and it was remarked by one alpinist from England that no climber would live for more than two years while engaged in such work. Vacations Spent In Tramping.

While on his periodical visits to Ruapehu, Mr. Holl took a tent and camped where fancy called liinr. He often turned his holiday into a strenuous trek. He kept a horse at Waimarino and during the long vacations would go for extensive tramps, using the horse mostly for pack purposes. He had ascended Buapeliu about 50 times, and one of his favourite climbs was to the Pinnacles, 20C0ft. up, if a companion were willing to join in this hazardous task.

On the south side of Ngauruhoe there is a gorge reached by going through the Tama lake basins, where there is a precipice about 500 ft. high, known as Holl's Rock. -This precipice, which, because it bulges outward, is more difficult than if it were sheer, was first climbed by Mr, Holl. Whenever he could find any campers at the park with sufficient nerve he would take them up this clirrtb, which for an amateur is an exploit of some daring.

j4 x Capacious Ruck-Sack Carried. Although he M as never afraid to tackle Any proposition Mr. Holl was considerate in his regard lot less energetic climbers. He had a wonderful'ability in regulating the pace of long route marches and the most indifferent walkers were" able- to keep Up. He had what he called a "steady mooch,'' antji was a firm believer that tea was the best beverage on which to tramp. , Mr. Holl carried a ruck-sack of huge dimensions, in which ho_ always packed two billies, the whole weighing sometimes well over 501b. He had been a constant frequenter of the Mangaturuturu Valley for some timej owing to the interest it held lor him in its heights and its unexplored places. On account of his knowledge of mountaineering Mr. Holl was once asked to take charge of the Hermitage, Mount Cook, but declined the offer.