THE HOME GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIV, Issue 19608, 9 April 1927, Page 5 (Supplement)

THE HOME GARDEN.

THE FLOWER GARDEN. la stiff, retentive soils drainage is absolutely necessary for successful cultivation of garden plants. Big out dramsat a suitable distance apart for the insertion of field tiles, with Bin. or 9ia, of scoria immediately above the drain pipes. Now is the best time for draining. * la old flower gardens, where the soil becomes dead and is lacking in fibre, some systejn of replacing the missmg ingredients must be adopted, such as digging in leaf rubbish or sowing with some suitable crop to dig under. Lotus Angustissima is a suitable winter cover crop to sow among the roses in the rose bed and other available places. It should be dug under toward the end of the winter. It is a nitrogen producer. Large shrubs intended for removal during the winter should be prepared for transplanting by having a -circular trench dug round them, cutting the larger roots. Refill the trench with the soil taken out. In cases where cannas occupy spaces that are wanted for other subjects, such as bulbs or seedlings, they may be taken up, the tops cut back, and transferred to winter quarters. Chrysanthemums that have been grown for show blooms the flowers protected by canvas covers, as heavy dews and rains soon blemish the flowers. The various clumps of lilies should have labels or marks attached to designate their whereabouts and prevent injury when digging or hoeing. Plant hardy seedlings, such as wallflowers, stocks, antirrhinums, mimuli, calendulas, gaillardias, pansies, etc. and nemesias and cinerarias in favoured localities.

GENERAL HINTS. FLOWERS AND TREES. WALLFLOWERS. Chairanthes Chieri (the common wallflower), embraces many improved varieties comprising many striking colours, including brilliant orange, showing almost scarlet in the distance, most brilliant crimson, bright yellow, old brown, blood red, primrose, ivory white and other shades. They are mostly in singles with a few choice double flowering kinds of dwarf habit with large dense spikes of flowers. All wallflowers are deliciously scented; they are old-fashioned favourites, and with wide, choice selection, their extreme hardiness and easy cultivation they make splendid displays when arranged in borders in colours to contrast. The wonder is that they are not more generally grown. Planted now they flower during the spring. There are early flowering varieties, tall growers, and dwarf-bedders. Wallflowers are as the <paine implies, suitable for wall gardens, rockeries and flower beds and borders. VIOLETS. Sweet violets, viola odorata, in its improved varieties, are the most popular of garden flowers, and probably the most largely grown. Borders of violets are to be seen in almost every garden. In addition to the production of flowers for home uses and garden decoration, they ara* extensively grown for commercial purposes. The first violets are anxiously looked for. To be most successful in the cultivation of the plants a proper system must, be adopted. The ground for violets must be well manured and renewals annually attended to, to keep up a regular supply. When the plants are two years old they should be taken up and divided, this being about the best time to perform this operation. Select single crowns for replanting, cutting off the long straggling leaves, and planting into the new border, arranging the selected crowns about 3sin. apart. If the soil is dry, well water and firmly tread. Before planting a wise precaution is to dip the plants with a solution of Gishart's compound to kill any red spider that may be upon them. Those planted this time last year generally yield the most flowers. They should be gone over and carefully weeded, and any discoloured leaves picked off.

VARIETIES OP VIOLETS. There are single and double flowered, named kinds. Among the singles, Princess of Wales is the most popular. It produces very large flowers. The Czar is another well-known variety. There are a few lovely doubles notably, Swanley Double White of Comte de Brazza, Marie Louise, rich lavender blue double and New York, double mauve coloured violets. During our usually hot, dry summers, violets are subject to red spider that affects the foliage owiqg to superabundance of moisture. Throughout this summer they have mostly escaped this disease and are exceedingly healthy. [Viola cdorata is a native of Europe. MIGNONETTES. The value of resedas or mignonettes ior winter flowering is not sufficiently known or appreciated. Careful selection has resulted, not only in tha production of giant heads of flowers, but, also, in ; the development of some lovely colours. JUnliko so many improved strains of flowers, these mignonettes retain their delicious fragrance. There aro largeflowered whites, distinct yellows, and deep reds. The improved Muchefc strains produce lovely red flowers. These mignonette flowers, when gathered and arranged in bowls, are greatly appreciated for their sweet perfume and pretty colours. The improved giant-flowered resedas altogether displace the old-fashioned mignonette. The seeds should be sown early in March, in the place where they are to grow and flower, as they do not transplant successfully when grown in plant trays. They may be sown in the spnng with successional sowings for winter flowering- They are very hardy. VERBENA VENOSA, Verbena Venosa is a beautiful, and, in Europe, a well-known and extensivelygrown hardy plane, most useful for bedding, particularly, if mixed with other plants such as silver-leaved geraniums,. Beds of standard roses with a carpet of this verbena beneath them are most enective. It produces its lilac or bluish flowers in trusses, same as the ordinary sorts, and flowers profusely almost throughout the summer, and, juagmg from the plants here, it succeeds admirably. It roots deeply, and is not affected bv dry weather. When better known, this popular bedding plant will be extensively grown. It is a native o Brazil, and propagated from seeds or root divisions. CUPRESSUS MACROCARPA. This is the large-fruited Monterry cyprus originallv introduced under the mime of . Tambertiana. It is one of the finest and most useful cypresses grown, 0 n account if its beautiful bright green appearance at all seasons. It has 1 great size, noble aspect and hardiness and rapit growth. It attains a height of oOf*. ana upwards, and is unexcelled as a timbei tree and for this purpose, irrespective oi its manv other uses for ornament ana shelter will be largely grown. It is a native of Monterry, Upper California and succeeds here to perfection. Trees plan-

PROGRAMME OF] .WORK.

ted locally over 50 years ago have attained great heights and dimensions of circumference. Like so many of the Cyprus family, various forms are produced from seeds of the same tree, some of pyramidal habit with spreading branches, and some assuming flat tops with age. This Cyprus will stand more illusage than any other and large limbs may be cut off old trees, new shoots resulting. As a single specimen it grows into a stately tree. For a shelter hedge it has no equal, and by judicious clipping at the proper time may be trained to form a dense barrier against the strongest winds. As a timber tree it must be extensively planted. Posts from macrocarpa are known to have lasted and kept sound after being over 40 years in the ground. It stands the salt winds, has no diseases and does not die out as sometimes stated to its disadvantage. To sum up it has every good quality.

DAHLIA CULTIVATION.

PAEONY-FLOWERED VARI ET!ES

Paeony-flowered dahlias have large flowers, consisting of three or more rows of petals, more or less flattened and somewhat irregularly arranged, with a few short, curling central petals, and showing a golden centre, similar to that of the singles. This is a distinct class and a most effective type for garden decoration owing to their freedom of flowering, immense size of the blooms and length of flower also in the manner the blooms are carried well above the luxuriant foliage. The flowers vary in shape, and some varieties produce occasional blooms with the petals filling the centre, conforming to the true, decorative type. They are mostly strong growers, .and require to be firrniy staked, and to be grown upon one stem. Locallyraised seedlings are, with a few exceptions, superior to the imported varieties. A SELECT LIST OP VARIETIES. A select list of varieties with brief description of colours: —Lloyd George, vivid orange, scarlet, superb; Goblin, purplish, maroon, very large; Zbe, most beautiful pink, one of the best; Canary, canary yellow; snowball, pure white; St. Leonards, a very lovely combination of rose and pink; Admiral Hood, yellow and scarlet, most effective; Resolute, deep chrome yellow, superb; Tokio, glowing orange, scarlet, most conspicuous; Lord Jellicoe, tangerine, suffused yellow; Beatrice May, fawny buff, distinct; General Home, scarlet with yellow centre, splendid; Wagtail, clear yellow and white, very distinct; I)r. Truby King, rich blood red, a striking colour; Waihi Improved, old gold, large flowers; Redman, copper shading to red; Waiotahi, golden apricot; General Joffre, rich, dark, wine colour; Flame, brilliant sicarlct; Black Prince, dark maroon.

TREIiJ DAHLIAS. Tree dahlias reach a great height, and are useful for sheltered positions in the shrubbery or back border. They aro represented; by Imperialis (Imperial) also from Mexico, a remarkable and beautiful species, with drooping white, bellshaped flowers, tinged with lilac, arranged in large, spreading paindes. Dahlia Maximilliana, another tree variety, blooms almost throughout the winter; the flowers are a pretty shade of lilac. Dahlia Leslie, the most popular of the tree varieties; the flowers are a beautiful shade of pink, changing to light lilac, exceedingly effective, flowers late in autumn. THE GREENHOUSE. The season has again arrived when many of the most beautiful and profuse summer and autumn flowers are practically over. The loss of such free-flowering varieties as tuberous begonias, gloxinia, achemenes and other free summer flowering plants is certainly not easy to fill. Much, however, can.be done to keep up a succession of flowers by giving special attention to the different varieties of winter flowering primulas, cyclamen, cinerarias, in fact, any free winter flowering plants. At this time tuberous and bulbous plants need careful attention. To keep the bulbs and tubers irf a sound condition special care must be exercised in watering. As soon as the plants show signs of decay, water must be sparingly applied, only sufficient being given to prevent the tops from wilting. But as soon as the tops decav and drop away naturally from the bulbs watering should cease, and the bulbs in their pots should be stored away on a dry shelf or tho pots can be turned on their sido under the bench or in any place that is free from drips. Begonia growing in the open border is better not to be disturbed until the tons die awav, when they should be carefully lifted and stored in dry sand. In houses where a number of varieties are grown, comprising both hardy and tender kinds, their needs naturally vary and greater care is required in their treatment. As the season advances'and the nights become colder, the more tender kinds are the first to feel the effects of the change. As the plants cease to make growth water must be more sparingly applied, every effort being made to so regulate the moisture, both in the soil and the atmosphere, that the soil cannot become _ over sodden. Plants naturally vary considerably in their requirements, a slow-growing plant for instance will not consume anything like the amount of moisture that a quickgrowing variety whose pot is filled with a network of roots will do. Again, the nosition they occupy in tho house, exposed, perhaps, to more sun and air than others, may necessitate more frequent waterings. In every instance, however, the safest plan, as frequently advised, is to water only when the soil shows signs of dryness, but in no case while the soil contains abundance of moisture. As already mentioned, as tho season advances evaporation is more slow, arid more care is needed in attending to their wants. In far too manv instances plants are all treated alike, whether they are dry or sodden with water, yet the grower, if at all observant, should quickly notice the plants that need most attention.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. To keep up a supply of vegetables during the winter, the soil requires to be deeply and well worked with manure so as to induce as rapid a growth as possible after the seeds are raised. It is important, too, that the soil be kept frequently stirred and free from weeds, every advantage being taken of fine weather for this work. The thinning-out of seedling crops should have attention as soon as the plants are sufficiently advanced. Crops are often injured, if not destroyed, by neglecting this operation. x The harvesting of pumpkins, squasl}, marrow and melons should be attended to as they ripen, Knmera3 should be lifted as soon as the tubers are matured, as they are apt to start into secondary growth. Young, tender carrots are always in demand for winter use. For present sowing the stump-rooted varieties, Manchester Table or Oxheart, are both excellent for table yse. In sowing turnips, a good plan* is to sow two or three varieties, White Stone, Orange Jelly and Garden Swede. By sowing a row or two of each their season of use is greatly extended.

For sowing the above and similar crops raised beds at this season are preferable to sowing on the level ground, for, apart from securing more rapid germination of the seed, the crops are more easily protected from slugs and other pests. Earth-up leeks as the plants advance in growth, drawing the earth up to the plants until the height for bleaching has been attained.

EARLY POTATOES.

Planters of early potatoes should, by this have had tlio ground thoroughly broken up to allow of the soil to become well pulverised and sweetened by the time the sets arc ready for planting. For early planting, medium-sized sets that require no cutting should be selected, as there is not the same risk of. losses as when the tubers are large, and require to be sliced. It is generally admitted that for early planting, better results are obtained if the sets are sprouted before

planting. This is'easily accomplished'by ' placing tho sots close together, with the crown upward into shallow boxes 01 trays, placing the boxes in a dry place but where they havo the full benefits of the light. Another method, after placing tho sets in tho boxes is to cover with fine dust of dry soil, using only just sufficient soil to lightly cover th 6 tubers. By keeping tho soil quite dry, little or no evaporation takes place, with the result that strong, sturdy shoots are made before there is scarcely any root growth, so that the sets can bo lifted and transplanted without check. Another advantage ot sprouting before planting is that any weak, spindly shoots can be discarded. In no case should the sets bo unduly forced, as tho main object is to secure short, sturdy shoots, and as soon as they attain an inch in length and havo been well hardened, they should be planted. It is naturally important that very early crops should only be planted in warm, dry positions and where there is the least risk of their being injured by frosts. A wellelevated position having a north-easterly aspect, and that is exposed to the sun immediately it shows above tho horizon, invariably 'escapes serious injury, while in less favourable positions they are badly damaged. The ground should in every ease be thoroughly broken up and brought into fine tilth before planting, while in planting, the tops of the shoots should only bo lightly covered, as the roots need all the warmth they can get during tho wet winter months. Keeping tho plants well earthed up as they advance in growth is of great importance, as it assists to drain tho soil and add warmth to the roots. Tho advantage of sprouting, apart from obtaining a more even growth, as almost every plant will grow, is that, two or three weeks at least is gained in tho growth and development of tho tubers than when dormant sets are planted, and with far less risk of losses. Tho success attained will depend largely upon the way the ground has been treated, and the condition it is in at the time of planting, as well as the position selected for the crop. For the early crops, comparatively light, dry soil invariably produces-better tubers than those grown on stiffer land. CROP ROTATION. For a permanent vegetable garden rotation of the crops is most desirable in order to obtain the best results. -One of the main reasons for this is that different crops require different foods and, as a succession of similar crops would deprive the soil of one or more plant foods, it follows that the foods can be best conserved by a judicious selection in planting. A root crop such as carrots should not succeed parsnips, nor should cabbages follow cauliflower. A wide range of rotation tables can _be drawn up but beginners must always bear in mind that each succeeding crop should be as dissimilar from its predecessor as it is possible.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. EARTHING-UP CELERY. Celery that have been planted in wellprepared trenches and have been given reasonable attention, should, with the exception of the very latest planted, be now sufficiently advanced for earthing up. The frequent rain experienced, almost from the time of planting, has kept the plants well provided with moisture without having to resort to artificial watering, and results in unusually rapid growth. The main object m earthing is to produce well bleached heads, not with the view of assisting growth, and as about six weeks at most is sufficient to complete the bleaching after the earthing is completed, more harm than good may result from piling a quantity of earth around the plants before strong growth has been made. In earthing, the main thing is to keep the soil from the centre, or heart, of the plants. The best method is to draw the stalks closely together, and place a tie around each, and as the earthing proceeds, and tho soil is tightly packed around tho plants, the tie can be raised until the work is completed. Leeks, too, should be earthed up as the plants advance in growth, drawing the soil up on either side until at least six inches of the plant is well bleached. ASPARAGUS. . Asparagus tops, as soon as they have become yellow and thoroughly ripened, should be cut back level with the ground. In no case, however, should this be done" while the tops remain green or until the sap has quite returned. With asparagus, as with most other deciduous plants, it is by the natural return of the sap that the roots are strengthened and developed, so that by cutting too early, or anything that will result in the premature dropping of the foliage, cannot fail but to weaken rather than strengthen root growth. As soon as tho tops are cut down and removed, the beds should be thoroughly cleaned of weeds, and when the crowns are sufficiently far apart to admit of forking, the ground between the plants should be lightly pointed over, every care being taken not to injure the crowns in the operation. NEW PLANTATIONS. In preparing the soil for new plantations, there is no better time than during the autumn when the soil is in a good workable condition. Broken up at this

r time, the soil has time to sweeten and j sink to its proper level before the time of planting. In preparing the beds or plots, ' one "thing should always be borne in mind; 1 that the deeper and better the soil is ' treated, the more lasting and finer will !the crop produced. A well prepared asparagus be<l will continue to produce abundance of strong shoots for years, providing it is given reasonable annual treatment. Although plants succeed best ' in soils of deep, rich, sandy loam, they can ' be successfully grown in almost any good 1 garden soil, providing the necessary ' materials are applied to Jteep the .soil open • and porous, together with suitable plant food to ensure healthy root growth. ADVANTAGE OP RAISED BEDS, For general homo use, raised beds formed sffc. wide, and to the length required, are preferable to planting on a level surface, and are not so liable to bo ; tramped upon when the plants are dormant*'. Another advantage of raised beds is that better drainage and warmth is provided at a time when heavy rains are often experienced. In preparing the bed, efiicicnt drainage is, in every case, essential, as stagnant water at the < roots is fatal to the plants.. The ground should bo trenched from 20in. to 2ft. As the work proceeds, and the bottom of each trench is reached, the bottom should be well broken up and a thick layer of manure, or other decayed vegetable matter, applied. This should be repeated as each layer of soil is turned over. If the soil is of a stiff, retentive nature and void of gritty matter, burnt refuse, charcoal, coarse sand, road sweepings, or other coarse material should be well incorporated with the soil. Seaweed, when obtainable, is an excellent material to work in the soil. Beds sft. wide will allow of three rows to be planted at 18in. apart from row to row, the same being a suitable distance from plant to plant. The best time to plant is July or August, or as soon as the young plants commence to make growth. Planting at this time is preferable to planting when the plants are dormant, as they take root more quickly, and soon become established. Strong one-year-old plants are best. PREPARATION FOR RHUBARB. The present, too, is a suitable time for preparing any ground required for planting out fresh plots of rhubarb. Ground which has been used for marrows, cucumbers, pumpkins or other running crops should be suitable for this purpose. To obtain the most satisfactory results the. ground requires to be deeply trenched and well enriched with manure, and although the season of planting extends from early winter until well into the spring, it is always an advantage in having the ground well prepared beforehand, to allow the soil time to properly sweeten. By planting some of the winter as well as the summer varieties, a supply can be maintained almost throughout the year.

LAWNS, TOP-DRESSING. s The autumn is always the best time of the year for top-dressing and renovating the surface of lawns that were laid down and sown the previous year, and where the grass has become thin and patchy and weeds have crept in, and also for filling up holes and other inequalities, for no matter how well the work lias been made at the first, subsidences are sure to take place especially where deep fillings have been made, consequently the whole surface should be gone over and relevelled, and all such defects remedied. A top dressing of surface soil that is free from weeds will, with the addition of suitable fertilisers, form a good compost, and when properly applied so as to fill up all inequalities an even and level surface will again be produced ready for sowing fresh seed. Do not roll tho surface until after the grass has corno through, but tvell raki, when sowing, to bury the seeds. OLD LAWNS. Older lawns where tho sward has become thin and patchy, and moss is in evidence, and also different weeds, may be greatly renovated by the application of sulphate of ammonia, evenly spread over the surface to kill the weeds without injuring the roots of tho grass. Although it may brown the tops of the grass it will ultimately act as a manure. About ten days after dressing with the sulphate of ammonia, apply a good ricli top-dressing to which a little lime has been added to tho depth of about a quarter of an-inch more in places where any holes occur. Sow some fresh seed, and well rake; then roll. The nutriment derived from the topdressing and the sulphate of ammonia and additional seed sowing, will bring the sward into good condition, and be a permanent benefit and save the labour and expense of digging up and fresh sowing. TO CORRESPONDENTS. E.J.W.. Pukehuia.—Figs are propagated from seeds and by cutting 3. Some varieties are self-fertilising and tho seeds will germinate. By this means of savins and sowing seeds new varieties are produced. The numerous seeds in the well-ripened seeds are the kinds to save and sow.

L.H., Opotiki.—The yellow-skinned apple is a variety called Willie Sharp. The bther poor specimen is Etowah.

" Tree Fern." Northcote.—-The best class of troo ferns to select lor plunking in your somewhat exposed position are those that are quite small before they have developed stems, being taken up with good roots and planted about the end of this month, when the soil is moist. If too dry, await the first rains in May, and the risk of losing any will be small. Every one should grow. Ee transplanting palms, with the exception o£ the Chamserops excelsa which transplants with safety from the open ground. The Phoraix and most of the other varieties, including our native nikau, are grown in pots and may be planted at any tune. Phoenix canariensis is the best and most suitable palm for your locality. Chamsarops excelsa. the Chinese fan palm, will also succeed, also Channerops humilis, the hardy dwarf variety. In planting palms do not insert them deeper in the ground, than they were in the pots,, and ram the soil firmly around them. This is essential. The Phoenix are better protected with some sacking on the western and southern sides to protect them for a time from the winds. 11. H.. Whitianga.—Re the proper time to gather egg plant fruits: When you consider the fruits are about fully grown is the proper time to gather them. lhey attain to a fairly large sise under good cultivation. # About Silb. weight is au average specimen. " Ferns," Mount Eden.—For covering bank on the shady side of tho house the following ferns are the .most suitable: Nephrolepis tuberosa, . variety Bostoniensiß, Polypodiuxn billadierii (to crow on the stones). Lom aria procera. Polystichium angulare, Pteris. jßcaberula, Asplenmm obtusatum, Doodia caudata, Pteris tremula and Adiatum hispidulum. These are good hardy growers and suitable for the purpose. Ferns are moisture-loving subjects and must be occasionally watered. " Rockeries," Epsom.—{Specimen to identify and that is giving .vou so much trouble, getting into every crevice and becoming a perfect pest, is the well-known Linaria cymbalaria, the Kemlworth ivy. The only way to get rid of it iB to persist m picking it out and in some instances removing the stones to eradicate it. Ihe other plant with the coloured foliage is Polygonum ripens. This spreads rapidly during the summer, but is easily eradicated. Winter frosts also keep it in check. It is well worth a place on account of its ornamental foliage and numerous small pink flowers. " Grapes," Pukekohe.—Bunch of Albany Surprise grapes to hand are affected, with powdery mildew (oidium). There is no cure when the disease has become established. The application of sulphur is the most effective treatment and ib a preventive, as well as a curative, when properly applied. Three or more dustings are necessary—the first when the vines are flowering and two or more dressings between the blossoming and when the berries begin to turn colour. Bordeaux mixture has proved a good remedy, also lime-sulphur. As a rule Albany Surprise is fairly free from mildew, especially when the plants are grown under natural conditions. Continual moisture this season has been conducive to mildew. 8.5., Henderson. —The specimens ot apple represent the variety Five Crown or London Pippin, a valuable variety for either culinary or dessert uses. The pear is not Packham's Triumoh. it being too late for that variety. jLt is probably Packham's Late, raised by the same raiser. " Freak," Grey Lynn.—Clumps of onionlike bulbs to identify are the white or silver-skinned shallots, a form.. of the ordinary shallot. Allium ascalomcum, , a native of Palestine and of ancient origin. Shallots are propagated each year by dividing the bulbs or corms. You state that the specimen sent is one ,of the production .of seedling plants. If so, the seed must have been produced from a shallot. Kepos.