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New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIII, Issue 19454, 9 October 1926, Page 6 (Supplement)

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FASHIONS OF TO-DAY. WHAT TO WEAR. Although fashions do not play such an important part in the lives of our 'menfolk as is tlie case with the " more decorative " sox, the changes and progress in the details of men's garments from season to season are by no means negligible. Generally speaking, tho standard of men's clothing is higher to-day, and the styles are more practicable than ever before. English tailors hold undisputed sway the world over for best class tailoring, as proved by tho fact that American, Continental and colonial visitors invariably stock their wardrobes with English tailor-mades while visiting that country. Time was when it was considered imperative to visit London in order to procure first-class tailored garments, but nowadays all first-class tailor's cutters have either had London experience or have studied London systems and methods of garment cutting and making. To bo " well dressed " it is essential that the garments worn be made of the best and correct materials suitable to the wearer and to the occasion. How oil en do we see so-called fashionable gar- ; ments worn by tho wrong type of figure, also garments worn entirely unfitted for the particular occasion ? It is not a great many years ago since the staid and eminently respectable frock coat was tho only correct garment for all formal occasions, but the more graceful morning coat has now supplanted it for formal affairs, and the übiquitous " loungo " has entirely eclipsed both for general and informal wear. The now popular lounge has undergone considerable improvement since it was first adopted for general wear. 'lt was originally, a short " tubby " garment with rounded fronts and no seam in the centre of back, buttoned close up at the neck with a short collar and squat lapels, and four buttons and holes down the fronts. After a time vents or slits were introduced either at the sides or centre back, the collar or roll was continued lower in front and the number of buttons was correspondingly reduced. Now wo have a smart and useful garment whether " double " or " single " breasted. These styles seem to share popular favour at present, tho former being generally preferred by the younger generation. Vests do not give much opportunity for radical changes. At one time fancy vests had a long innings, but they seem to have lost their attraction now, and the single-breasted vest with medium opening at front, no collar, and rather long points below the bottom button seems . the favourite. An occasional double-breasted vest is seen, but they are not by any means la-mode at the moment. White vest slips are always an improvement with black or darkdoloured suits, but should not be worn with bow ties. Trousers.—lt is impossible in a short article to do justice to these useful but ungraceful garments, the most reviled by their wearers, yet (dare it be said?), the most coveted by the opposite sex. Suffice it to say that fashion has ordained many changes in theso nether garments, at one time "peg tops," then "gun cases": once bell-bottomed, now " Oxford bags," and so it goes on. Our grandfathers wore them with "whole-fall" fronts; today they arc worn with " fly " fronts. The pleats which are now worn in the fronts of trousers were quite a " brain wave." We are told they originated in Birmingham. London saw and appreciated their usefulness and straightway adopted them as " Latest London Fashion." These pleats should be put in so as to be in line with tho creases in front and are useful in lessening the strain across tho fronts when tho hands arc in the pockets. Turned-up bottoms continue to be popular, except in the caso of stripe cashmere trousers, to be worn with morning coat, when they certainly ought to be made plain at "the foot. Overcoats. —These are now regaining favour iri place of cardigans and jerseys, which never they displaced overcoats to some extent during the winters immediately following the war. Chesterfields, i.e., singlebreasted overcoats with fly fronts, llap pockets, and vent in centre back, fairly close or semi-fitting are always safe, and may be considered standard garments, never " out of date." Velvot collars and silk facings are not fashionable on overcoats at the moment. Double-breasted overcoats of heavy vclour, nap, or freize find much favour among young men, and generally have three sets of buttons on the fronts, tho chest buttons being set further apart than those at the waist, giving a broad-chested effect. At tho back they have a long vent and at times pleats are held in place at the waist, with a short belt. Others are made close-fitting at back with a waisted effect. Raglans or slip-on coats find many adherents on account of being easy to slip on and off, but this style of garment is most suitable for raincoats and gabardines. Evening Dress.— For evening wear the dress coat (tails) is reasserting itself as tho most suitable and most graceful garment for dances and formal gatherings, with white waistcoat of silk or pique. Tiie dress lounge is always a popular garment for dinners and concerts or tiie theatre, and generally the waistcoat of samo material and black tie are suitable wear. Dress trousers are now worn slightly fuller at the thighs and knees, pleats in fronts in line with the creases, and one or two rows of silk braid down the sides; plain bottoms, of course. Sports.—For golf or shooting the sports coat and plus fours, made from Manx or Scotch tweed, together, with the, " Fair Isle " sweater or pull-over, are the usual outfit to-day. The main features of the coat are ease and roominess, while the knickers are invariably made fairly loose with two pleats in tho fronts and only moderately long. —James P. Ayclon, in an English journal.