PRUNING THE QUINCE.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIII, Issue 19390, 27 July 1926, Page 14

PRUNING THE QUINCE.

A NEGLECTED VARIETY.

The quince, like the fig, is often left to its own resources, so that instead of developing into, a well-shaped productive tree, it becomes an awkward densely-foli-aged bushy type, and may also becomo unproductive. For the first few years, when framing the tree, care must be taken to give each leader plenty of space in order to combat the natural tendency to assume the bushy habit. The trunk should bo very short, and the main and secondary arms should be pruned hard, so that they are strong, and not inclined to be too supple and pliable as they will become if unpruned. The main branches should be trained obliquely and the secondary arms should arise from side buds and bo trained in the same direction.

After the second hard pruning, when the secondary arms are shortened well back, the subsequent growths which are intended for leaders should arise from buds on the upper surface of the arms in order to give the leaders moro of a vertical direction. This keeps them from being too overhanging. All superfluous and rank growths should be rubbed out in the summer. The Third Pruning. At the third pruning the leaders are again shortened close so that many buds along the arms are awakened into activity to produce laterals. Those on tho outside of the branches should be retained but those in the centre should be removed. The retention of these outside laterals keeps the tree from growing upwards too rapidly and also encourages earlier fruiting. When the framework is thoroughly built and the tree has attained its normal size there will still be a constant effort to revert to the natural bushiness. This is indicated by the great number of water shoots which arise in the centre to form a dense growth. These must be suppressed, unless required to replace a limb that may have been broken off. The quince produces three growths annually, the leading wood shoot, the spur, and the lateral. When the framework 13 completed the leader needs little pruning except to maintain the vitality of the tree. The quality of the fruit of the quince soon deteriorates if the vigour of the tree is seriously decreased. Therefore it is important to attend closely to the condition of the tree before deciding on the intensity of the pruning of the leader. The Spur. The spur is a small branch and is characterised by having, at its tip, a knob which really consists of two terminal flower buds. When these bloom two buds often arise on the outside of the scar left by the fruits. These may develop into small shoots or spur-branches and may produce fruit. There is no pruning for the individual spur, but they are pruned indirectly when the leaders and laterals are removed.

The lateral of the quince is a thin curving twig which is often so curved that it hangs down. It has numerous buds along its length, but, strange to say, there is no terminal bud. The tip usually dies back to one of the side buds, and this bud is the means by which the lateral elongates. Other buds may also make growth, some into weak sub-laterals, others into fruit spurs. The moderately healthy laterals which are not in the best position for receiving sap may,, on this account; produce fruit spurs from their side buds. These, therefore, should be retained and shortened back very little. On the other hand weak and useless laterals should be removed.

Renovation Operations. I have previously noted the readiness with which the. quince gives rise to water shoots, and from this I may safely assume that the quince is a tree that may be renovated very easily. This is, in fact, true with all fruit trees that produce water shoots, or suckers, as they are sometimes known. Old trees undergoing renovation may either be cut back gradually or thia operation may be completed in one. In the latter case the tree is cut back to the main branches and, if one wishes to introduce a new variety, grafts are inserted in the. bark. Another method of changing the variety is to bud on to the bases of the young shoots, which arise from the arms. No matter which method is followed these shoots arising above the grafts or buds must be immediately suppressed. Those arising from below the grafts or buds should have the growing point pinched out to keep them from out-growing the growths from the buds or grafts. They should be totally removed at the following winter pruning.

Current Orchard work. It is very beneficial to dig around fruit trees to keep the soil loose and keep the weeds in check. A loose condition of the soil allows the surface-feeding rootlets to develop unhindered. Such work should be done now if possible, taking advantage of the present favourable weather and soil conditions.

While pruning operations are being carried on, grafts should be selected for future use. These should be " heeled inin a sheltered position out of the reach of the sun's rays; until required, when the time for grafting approaches. Trees which it is intended to graft on to should now be cut back before the sap begins to rise. If left until the sap rises the bark around the wounds is likely to die and produce a useless limb lor grafting purposes.

Spraying and pruning operations should be completed as speedily as possible while the vegetable garden is somewhat slack and before it calls for more attention as the busy season approaches.