GOOSE FARMING.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXII, Issue 19144, 9 October 1925, Page 16

GOOSE FARMING.

BREEDING AND FEEDING. A SOURCE OF PROFIT. REARING OF GOSLINGS. BY G.H. Of all domesticated poultry probably none are so little understood as geeseOne frequently hears it stated that the birds are unprofitable, but under proper management this is by no means the case. It is necessary, however, that they should be confined on some rough piece of pasturage during the breeding season. It is only when given complete freedom arid left entirely to their * own devices that geese do not pay. Another statement one frequently hears is that unless the bird's mate on water their eggs are infertile. I have known geese to be kept j for years without access to a pond or Stream, and rarely lay an infertile egg | or, rather, an egg that has not yielded a strong, healthy, quick-growing gosling. Again, it is often said that geese destroy grass and that other stock will not eat the grass over which they roam. Both assertions are incorrect. At all events, I have not noticed that geese do any material damage to.turf; as for other stock not caring about the* grass occupied by the birds and refusing to eat it, I have grazed cows, sheep and ponies with geese and they have not shown any signs that they did not care for the grass. Geese fatten very quickly on the stubble fields after harvest, gleaning all the corn that would other wise be wasted. It is during the first two weeks in August that the birds begin to lay. Separate nesting quarters must be provided for each goose. I have seen large chicken coops used for this purpose. It ihe bars are knocked off and the coops fitted with doors of wire netting, they answer admirably. The coops should be placed a distance apart, should face north, be flooriess, and bedded thickly with straw. It is also advisable to hollow the straw and put a few dummy eggs in the hollow. Care of Goose .Eggs. It may be a little tedious to persuade the geese to lay in separate coops. Rarely do they begin to lay all at the same time. Perhaps a couple will begin one week, and the rest the following week. A sharp look-out must be kept, and if it is noticed that two are laying.in one coop, the door, must be closed to the second corner. On finding the door closed the latter will pass on to one of the other co-ops. In this way, if patience and trouble be exercised for a little time, f.ll the geese will be coaxed to lay in separate coops. It is, important to collect the eggs as they are laid, to date, them and, if about to be stored, store in a cool place and turn them each day. To obtain the best results during hatching, the first batch of eggs should be collected and placed under hens or in incubators. If the former are used, they should be given three or four each, according to the size of the eggs and the hen. Should any one of the geese become broody she should be removed with the gander on to a fresh paddock and entirely fresh surroundings, and she will soon commence to lay another batch, providing she does not hear or take to any goslings. If once allowed to lake possession of any goslings she will probably not lay again that season. After the breeding season is over, the geese that have been kept laying will naturally take to the goslings when these are ioresaken by the hens. Incubating Goose Eggs. Should you notice a goose becoming broody, and you decide to allow her to sit, fourteen of the earliest eggs should be placed m her nest and, as a rule, she will begin to sit straight away. Fourteen eggs are the recognised number for one goose to incubate; a bird of average size cannot cover more. It sometimes happens, however, that a goose will lay as many as thirty eggs before becoming broody. Thirty days is the period of incubation. Often some of the eggs are more than two weeks old before they can be "put down," yet, unlike hen and duck eggs, the comparatively Icng keeping dees not seem to do them any harm-—always provided they are turned once in 24 houre. A goose, if left to herself, comes off to feed late in the afternoon. It is only for a few minutes that she leaves her eggs, that is, unless the weather is exceptionally warm. In this case she mav leave them twice during the day, and altogether for more than half-an-hour. It is well not to allow birds to come off and feed when they feel so inclined, but, as- soon as they have settled down to serious incubation, to close the door of the coop and get them into the habit of coming off at a time most convenient to yourself;. Presently, however, they, will leave the eggs almost immediately you open the door. A disadvantage of allowing the birds to leave their nests when they choose, is that geese, being of a jealous, covetous nature, will, if they see the opportunity, steal one another's eggs. They roll them along the ground with their bills to their own nests, and in this way will collect a far larger number than they can cover. Still a second disadvantage is that occasionally a goose will temporarily forsake her own eggs and crowd on to the nest of one of her companions. Care at Hatching Time. Where practicable a spare incubator should be kept going to hatch out the eggs, as when they begin to chip the shell both hens and geese are so very liable to crush the young birds in their anxiety to protect them. This is not owing to clumsiness, but to the birds sitting too close. As soon as they hear the goslings in the egg. the breastbone presses • the life out of the youngsters in the bottom of the nest, and not until they can stand and walk, and the parent bird begins to raise herself in the nest, is it safe to entrust them to their care. Goslings are very easy to rear. They will not take food until at least 24 hours old. A sod of short fine grass should be cut and placed n'ear them, also a pan of fresh water. Chopped egg, stale breadcrumbs or harley meal, mixed in a crumbly state and dry, are suitable for the first few days, then whole barley, oats or wheat dnce or twice daily will be all they require, if reared for stock purposes. There is not much trouble in the rearing of goslings after the first week or ten days. During that time fthey need extra care and attention. Geese do not require meat of any kind, and sometimes too highly stimulating feeding will cause the birds to go lame in their hock joints. After they are a month old the goslings should have a swim in a large pond once or twice daily, or, better still, free access to water; also a good range on grass.

Varieties of Geese. The Grey Toulouse lays a larger quantity of eggs than the White Embden, but rarely wants to sit. The Embden goose usually becomes broody after laying 12 to 15 eggs. Gees© wi*:l live and breed successfully up to ten years, and have been known to breed at twenty years of age. When once suitably mated "it, is best not to break up the pen so long as they continue to breed satisfactorily. Geese usually lay every other day, occasionally laying early in the morning and late in the evening the next day, averaging five eggs a week, and will commence to lay within a day or t„>vc» of a certain date every year. If the geese are laying very heavily, which many Toulouse will do, they should have a little extra feed of oats, taking care not to over-stimulate or they will produce shellless eggs, which, if not checked, will soon produce inflammation of the ovaries and eventually result in the death of the goose. A soft bran mash with a pinch of Epsom Salts added every two or three days will usually bring the eggs right again if softshelled or broken eggs are found.