A PEEP AT EDINBURGH.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXI, Issue 18891, 13 December 1924, Page 1 (Supplement)

A PEEP AT EDINBURGH.

LESSON IN SCOTTISH HISTORY.

N BY -NORMAN K. BURTON.

To see Edinburgh for the first time is a heart-stirring experience for a person who has any historical imagination. The city is crammed with interest. Not many spots in the British Isles have been the scene of more romantic, or more tragic happenings than Holyrood and Edinburgh Castle, and the famous street that lies between. This locality is saturate:! with history, and its general appearance has not greatly changed since the memorable day when John Knox, preaching from the window of a house still standing, denounced Mary Queen of Scots to a surging crowd below. 1 could, in imagination, see that fateful incident as I looked out of that very window. But I am not going to describe Edinburgh. The guide books have done that exceedingly well. I will merely recount a few personal experiences and impressions. In an ancient and historic city like Edinburgh I delight in wandering just where fancy leads me. In this way one gets illuminating glimpses of the people as they really are. The by-ways a'e more interesting to me than the highways. My first wander led nie into the vicinity of St. Giles' Cathedral. This is the very heart of Old Edinburgh. Here I made" acquaintance with the Edinburgh urchin—and a bright urchin he is. \\ e immediately became friends. Pointing to the fine old church, I asked: '"What place is this?" The urchin knew all about it. He seemed to know every stone, in the building, and 13 other boys as clever and as dirty as himself gathered round and joined the conference. They were smart boys. They answered my questions almost before I could, open my mouth. They were a credit to theii teachers. They taught me more about the history of Edinburgh in ten minutes than I hail learned during the whole of my previous life. Theirs was evidently a hard life, yet they took a pride in their city, and could tell its story far better than the young Aucklander can tell the story of Auckland.

" I" Stands for John. "See that mark on the ground," said one sharp little Scot. "That's where John Knox was buried." "Who was John Knox?" I asked. They did not stay to reproach me for my ignorance; but shouted in chorus: "He was a great preacher. He preached here in St. Giles.' " But why did they cut T.K.' on this stone? Why not 'J.K.'?" " 'I.' stands for lan—that's John," they replied. This was my first lesson in the Celtic language, and, as I seemed to be a promising pupil, they proceeded to teach me a little Scottish history. " Look at that man on the horse," cried one of my instructors, pointing to an equestrian statue close by. " That's the two-faced King." "Why is he called 'Two-faced?'" " Because he liked the devil better than the angel," was the prompt reply. The replies always came like a flash. "If you look at him," they went on, "you'll find a picture of the "devil on his front and the picture of the angel on his back. That means that he turned his back on the angel." " What was this two-faced King s name ?•" " Charles the Second," they said. " But I don't see anything about Charles the Second," said I, reading the inscription on the statue. " It's there," they persisted—and, of course, they were right. "It says: 'Carolo Secundo.' That's Latin. It means 'Charles the Second.' "

Seven-Year-Old Speaks Up. It was quite impossible for 7)ie to "floor" these infallible authorities. 1 stood dumb before them while they showed me the spot where Jeannie Geddes threw the stool. "And the stool is over there," interjected a little chap. Thev told me many other interesting things. When the hub-bub ceased for a moment a little dirty-faced, brown-eyed boy about seven years old. who had been unable so far to make himself heard, sang out. "Oh, do come and see the eagle feeding its wee babies." I thought at first that there might be a Zoo .near-by. But I was wrong. The little fellow took me round to the other side of the old Cathedral, and pointed triumphantly to an eagle feeding its young carved on the wall. It is, I understand, a symbol of sacrifice.

I told the company that I had come all the way from New Zealand to see the wonderful things they had shown me. I said they were very lucky to be able to see these things every day. "And we would like to see the things you have, in New Zealand," one of them remarked.

" How many of you have heard of New Zealand ?" I asked.

Every boy put up his hand, except a few of* the very wee chaps. " What do vou know about New Zealand ?■'

" There are fine 'farrms' said one. "You had some big fights with the Maoris, who are very brave," said . another.

There were fourteen urchins, so I produced one shilling and two pennies. Speaking to the head of the clan. I said: " If I give vou this, will you divide it fairly?" "Yes, sir." lie answered. " Can' you all trust him ?" I asked. " Yes, sir." they replied, unanimously. So I handed over the money, and thus terminated an instructive adventure. I will remember it whenever I think of my very pleasant visit to Edinburgh.

An Unmerciful Guide. The Scot lakes his religion seriously, and if lie knows so much when he is so young it is not surprising that when he grows up he expects his minister to be a man of profound learning. Wandering down a side street I saw a church— Lady Jester's Parish Church. On the notice board was the minister's name, and after it the following letters:—M.A., 8.D., D.Litt., M.8., Ch.B." It must be awe-inspiring to see, that minister walk into his pulpit. My motor trips to the historic places in the 'neighbourhood of Edinburgh were very enjoyable; but there was a fly in the" jam. We bad a most intelligent lady guide—a Scot through and through. She was unsparingly patriotic. The way she gloated when we sighted the spots where Wallace and Bruce fought and won made the English blood in my veins run cold. It was always a " mere handful of Scots" and they aways put "thousands of English" to flight. I asked her to remember (hat this was all very painful to me. It would have been nice, and perhaps not altogether unhistorical, if she could have seen her way occasionally to increase the number of Scots and reduce the number of English. But she showed no mercy. 1 did °get a little joy when she pointed to t lit- place where Fitz-James fought Rhoderick Dhu. 1 let my imagination revel in this killing of Scot by Scot, and, wished there had been more of it. It was a change from the everlasting slaughter of Englishmen.

Bishop Walpole. It iiiav interest Aucklanders to know that the' three fine steeples of St. Mary's Anglican Cathedral compel attention as one approaches Edinburgh. Their beautiful lines can be seen from any part of tlie city. The idea of completing the cathedral by erecting these steeples came from Dr. Walpole, the present Bishop of Edinburgh, who was formerly vicar of St. Mary's. Parnell. and still has many friends in Auckland.