WINTER FASHIONS.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LVII, Issue 17471, 15 May 1920, Page 4 (Supplement)

WINTER FASHIONS.

It is a curious fact, (says a Paris correspondent) that although the Louis A.V. outline is very poplar in Paris—an outlino which distinctly accentuates the curve of the waist-we also have with us straight coatees of the sac order. At one of the most famous tailors in the Rue do la Pail, a winter tailor-made showed a short ■ straight coat bordered with beaver, and an umbrella skirt bordered with the same fur. The coat\ was exaggeratedly "sac," W'to? in absolutely straight lines from, shoulder to hem. The sleeves were long and leg-of-mutton in form, with a band of beaver at the wrist. The fronts were doub.ebreasted, and the coat fastened with a single very large button. It cannot be said that there is war between the waist lines; it simply means that we have a choice; we can he Louis XV. if we like— we can be "sac." But in the world of indoor dresses the waist line remains faithfully "vague." In many cases the cincture is worn far down on, the hips, giving a boyish appearance to the figure: or there is a double cincture of two-inch ribbon, one circling the figure at tic normal waist line and the other much lower down. One smart little garment took the form of a loose " casaque" made of dark crimson velours de laine. It was very long-waisted and fastened at either side of the hips by loops of skunk, the same fur running up the figure, after the miinner of braces. There was a straight tie of skunk, and the casaqus was lined with dark blue taffeta. It was to be worn over a pleated skirt of dark blue serge. Afternoon -Frocks. . .

. For afternoon frocks— be worn under warm wraps in the street—black' s»tin, black taffeta and black Chantilly lace are the favourite materials. Black satin has again oomr. to the front; for some time past satin has been set »side for taffeta, but now it is more in demand than ever. As to black lace, it threatens to become as übiquitous as the long ostrich feather. For a really becoming and practical afternoon gown one cannot have - anything better than black lace; a skirt arranged in three or four graduated flounces and . several" different bodices; also several different sashes and girdles. One can ring the changes again and again, the black lace skirt always looking charming and always hanging in graceful folds, especially if it be mounted on a black voile doe soie slip. A novelty tea gown worth mentioning was in a soft grey tone. One of the new capes was brought into ' play with this special model. The bodice in reality formed this cape. It was spotted over with l«rge velevt spot« of a darker shade. The front of this example was held in place by velvet ribbons, that were slotted quite after the newest idea. A very dull, but at the same time a most becoming tone of pink velvet- flower, not unlike a gardenia, finished the velvet notch in front, giving the gown that necessary touch, so often omitted. Apart from- the heavier weaves, there are, of course, many followers of the favourite georgette and chiffons. The very mention of the fabric spells expense. Madame Mode caters for all, therefore, the sums of money paid for some of these wonderful-looking affairs never enters her head, as she leaves the choice to the more fortunate ones. Poets rave about the " roseate lines of early dawn," but the beautiful pink georgette and chiffon gown proves even more lovely than these same roseate lines. This originallydesigned tea garment showed bands of tfold insertion suggesting the sun's rays. Picturesquely carried out, the gown clung in a most alluring manner to the graceful wearer. * - Hats.' Fortunately for us all, hate in general differ as greatly as faces, for if a small model should prove unbecoming, it is more than likely that a broad-brimmed hat will meet the; case. Very few women would find it worth their while to quarrel with a becoming headgear of a soft, creamy white panne, with an underlining of black velvet. .The sole trimming of this example was a twist of white and grey plaited wool/ knotted in front. This "scheme of trimming a hat with wool' is quite a favoured idea with our autpmn and winter hats; indeed, it has almost become a craze. An uncommon idea showed in 'a smoke-blue velour hat of a " crush" shape. The underlining of the brim -was covered "with a grey wool, crocheted to cover the whole in a neat manner. The decoration of the hat itself consisted of a knitted grey wool crown i band, fringed with alternate saxe blue, and a touch of red and grey wool. The | effect was cosy, and the hat suitable to wear with one of the. new knitted jumpers.

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