THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LV, Issue 13967, 28 September 1918, Page 3 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

POPULAR SPRING FLOWERS. Daisies, primroses, polyanthus, cowslips, pansies, including violas, are charming old-fashioned spring favourites they are of the easiest culture, most floriferous, and .indispensable for borders. All succeed best in a fairly rich loamy somewhat moist soil and cool situation, and are extremely hardy. Pansies are general, favourites, and may be grown by almost anyone, as they will thrive without special treatment, provided the position is neither too hot nor too dry... By careful selection of the best large-flowered strains, ai.id liberal treatment as to culture, splendid results may be attained. Thoroughly decomposed cow-manure should be dug into the ground bofore planting, and when the plants are flowering en occasional topdressing is necessary, to keep the surface soil around the plants cool and moist. Herbaceous Plants, Herbaceous plants are already starting into full growth. Paeonies are throwing up their flower stems. These are divided into two sectionsthe Moutan or tree, and the Herbaeceous paeony; both are exceedingly ornamental. They thrive best in a deeply loamy highly-manured soil, The tree paeonies, notably the Japanese species, are gorgeous-flowering sub-shrubby plants, producing large poppylike blossoms in early spring. As the mode of propagation is mostly by grafting considerable difficulty is experienced in keeping down suckers that spring up from the stooks. '

In selecting herbaceous perennials for summer flowering, the Ocrbera Jamiesoni, or African daisy, must not be overlooked. Its brilliant bcarlet flowers, which are most useful for cutting, are produced upon long stems. .In addition to the original type there are a number of hybrids of different shades. Qerberas are easily grown in any good ordinary garden soil that is of--a porous nature. Perennial asters or Michaelmas daisies, of wliich there are numerous kinds, are esteemed for autumn-flowering. Heleniums,solidagOß, perennial sunflowers, perennial phloxes and gaillardias are generally grown in'most gardens. Doronioums are also very showy with their light yellow blossoms. Slugs and snails are partial to most of the herbaceous perennials, conse- j quently precautions must be adopted in the way of liming, hand-picking and the use of other remedies to keep these pests down. Amaryllis and other late starting bulbs are mating new growth. These, too, must be protected from slugs eating the leaves ana disfiguring the flower stalks. Annuals From Seed. The sowing of these varieties of annuals that are raised from seeds sown where they are grown in the beds and borders should now be attended to. And the transplanting into their various place* in the beds and borders of those that have been raised under glass and pricked out into boxes and properly hardened "off. Carnations and picotees need special attention at this season. Stir the surface soil around tho plants, pick off any decayed or diseased leaves and scatter a little lime mixed with soot on the surface around the plants, 1 and as soon as they begin to throw up their flower stalks apply neat stakes. i

, Benefits of Hoeing. Lightly hoeing over the surface of the various beds and borders at least one* every week to break the surface crust is a very necessary operation and should be regularly practised. It not only kills seedling weeds, but has a very marked effect upon the growth of the plants and retains the moisture near the Lawns must have proper attention at this season by mowing ana rolling to keep the sward low and in good condition. THE VINERY. Prom this time onward vines in all stages of growth will need regular and careful attention. Even the latest varieties should now be well started, while many of the earlier kinds will be well advanced in growth. At this season vines grow very rapidly, and the work of disbudding, stopping and tying to the trellis as the laterals advance in growth must in no case be neglected. Disbudding is the first operation demanding attention— that ifi, removing all weak and superfluous shoots' that often start around the base of the spur. In removing these, however, two or more of the strongest should be left until the bunches can be seen, and the strongest and most promising bunch can be deoided upon, when the other laterals can then be pinched back or removed. Pisbudfling, as in stopping lateral growths, shoulcTDe done almost daily, or as often as possible, so that too much growth is i not removed from the vines at once. By going over tho vines often, and as the different varieties advance in growth, the work can be kept well in hand and all risks of injury from too great loss of sap avoided,

The tying up of tta laterals must be carefully performed, And should be done slow'y. To attempt. 0 bring the laterals at once into the pint-ion required is almost certain to result in ilie loss of The shoots at this stage are very brittle, and require try careful handling to each • lateral, so as to' secure it from breaking off with its own weight. Then, after the wood is more hardened, it can be brought into the position required without much risk of breaking. A good plan when tying up the main rod to the trellis is to allow it to hang three or four inches below the trellis. By this means the fruiting laterals are more easily secured. Spurs and Laterals. If the spurs are formed at reasonable distances apart and strong, healthy growth is made, one lateral from each spur should only be allowed to grow. If, on the other hand, there is abundance of space, two shoots may be left on some of the spurs, one to carry the bunin and the other to aid in covering the <relli» with foliage and furnish strong fruiting buds for next season's crop. Stopping Fruiting Laterals. The next tiling will bo stopping the fruiting laterals. As Boon as sufficient growth has been mado, each lateral shoi.ld be stopped three eyes boyond where the bunch is formed; but in this the operator must bo guided by the strength of shoots, the distance the bunch is formed from the main cane, and the amount of trellis to be covered. One thing must not be lost sight of—that grapes grow and ripen best when protected by a good covering of healthy foliage.

The number of bnnches the vine should be allowed to carry must be regulated by iha strength and vigour of the canes, and the treatment of the vines will receive when carrying their crop as w«!l us upon the variety grown. In all cases the grower must make himself acquainted with the capabilities of the vines and act accordingly. Vines are soon exhausted by over-cropping, unless they receive very liberal as well as careful treatment. Varieties vary bo truch in size of bunches and berries, some producing bunches "equal in weight to three of other varieties. This must be considered when regulating the crop. The vines should, in no case, be trained less than two feet from the glass. The maintenance of the foliage in a clean, healthy, vigorous state is one of the chief features in successful grape culture, and this is best attained by allowing ample space for the foliage to develop. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. " Potatoes," Epsom: One of the most approved remedies for potato blight is the bluestone-washing "soda solution. Take 31b of bluestone and 3Jlb of washing soda; dissolve the bluestone in hot water in a tub or barrel, add cold water to make 13 gallons; next dissolve the washing soda in hot water, add cold water to make 13 gallons. Mix the two together in equal parts, or take equal quantities from each to fill the spray pump. Select a fine day) and if possible make up the mixture tho same morning or the previous evening, as it is more effective when fresh. Spray when plants are a few inches above the soil; make successions! sprayings every two or three weeks after the first.

" Amateur" : About the middle of October is the proper time to make first sowing of sweet or sugar corn for table use. Sow in rows, the earliest about 3ft apart and the latest, or taller growers, 4ft apart; thin to I2in in the rows. Golden Bantam is a good early and Country Gentleman is considered the best late. Kumaras may be planted from about the middlo of October to the middle of November. Plant in rows 3ft apart and 2ft or more between the setsK.Q., Remuera: Re scarlet flowering gums (Eucalyptus ficifolia) blowing down, tho chief cause is defective root action. The plants have to be grown in pots to ensure their safe transplanting. When , they have been a long time in the pots the roots, being conflnod in a small space, become twisted and matted, and do not i extend after being planted equally around the tree to Becure it against strong winds. . To obviate this difficulty, always select small plants— smaller the better— i have not been long potted and roots not i contracted. Kepos. _______________