WINTER MODES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LV, Issue 16895, 6 July 1918, Page 4 (Supplement)

WINTER MODES.

Ot'R Parisienne correspondent writes :— That there is to be no mistake about, the lone line is plainly evident from ft study of the late Paris models, and, furthermore, the long line is also a loose line for the present. Just as we were rather prepared to take up the partly-fitted frock we are plunged into the midst of fashion shows which show hardly a trace of it. In fact, the gowns mav he said in the most instances to be literally hung on. Whether the closer fitted mode is to be discarded or merely held over is rather hard to determine,'for a hint of it is still prevalent, in the new evening gowns, which are not fitted in the sense of being boned or held tight, but are certainly more figure revealing than ever. The loose robes for which so much liking is evinced are clinging indeed, and in lime a compromise may be effected. At present the backs of the majority of both dresses and coats are looser than ever and very many are the different forms which this feature of the costume has assumed. The living loose panel has been note.l before," but another graceful irrangcment is one falling straight from tho shoulders U. tho hem but also part of the skirt and falling in a loop over the girdle at tho sides,'forms the sleeves. Usually the girdle disappears at the back, running under it. but occasionally it passes all the way around and the back falls over it in a. loose, Mousey fashion. When the material is lace or some kindred filmy fabric often the girdle as a colour note on tho dress it. visible through the meshes of net or filet. A charming style is this, adding rreatly to one's apparent height, and another thing in its favour is the very straight line it gives, for if straight lines are to be at all they must be well dona and nothing half-way about it. Straight

lines badiy nandied give as graceful an outline as a clothespin does—that is, they are straight with an ugly bump here or there where the form beneath insists on making itself manifest. So it happens that carefully studied modifications of the straight line" are most acceptable just at this time, when most of us are looking for at least one very smart new frock for warmer weather. The Inside-out Ooai. Perhaps the most thoroughly serviceable navy serge and black satin expression is provided in those wonderfullyi adaptable inside-out coats. These long, all-enveloping garments are 80 cleverly planned and made that they can be worn either side out equally well, and although they aro to be seen in several colours and mixtures, nothing, to ; our minds, beats blue serge and black i satin for all-round general service.

Girls going to war work all day, and then from office to theatre, as is so often the case, will find a wrap of this description invaluable. In the dayiime the serge provides a thoroughly neat, workmanlike covering, which, at eventide, is immediately transformed into a charming "manteau" by the simple process of. turning it inside out. Another useful combination will be found in a plaid woollen material and plain cloth. Black and white check tweed, for instance,, facing fine blalck gab, is most effective, as also a dull grey blurred check .with over lines of Japanese blue, the latter colour taken up by the plain cloth reverse side. Many Uses for Gold Tissue. From Paris came this autumn's craze for gold and silver tissue millinery, and from that unfailing fount of inspiration comes also the new fad for metallic tissue evening frocks and manteaux. Not always, of course, is the entire garment composed of this rich-looking fabric, but it is sometimes employed as foundation, sometimes as trimming. A particularly effective' way of using it is in conjunction with black velvet, and one of the very latest novelties out in Paris is a circular evening cloak of gold tissue deeply hemmed and caped with black velvet. Charming, too, are the new black net or Gewgette jumper frocks and blouses I with wide hems of gold or silver tissue, , with loose waist girdles of tissue ribbon I to match.